GeorgiaHybrid

Just how "cozy" did you guys get????

We have stayed there twice and really like that park. Wide roads, large sites in width and length (handles our 70 ft with ease) and several options for different sites. They have a dog wash station and nice laundry facilities. About the only drawback would be some noise from the interstate. Not much in Gila Bend but they do have the basics (grocery stores, auto parts, hardware)

Carl, take a look at SK sockets (American made). Another decent choice would be the tool truck import brands (Blue Point from Snap-on), (Silver Eagle from Matco). Almost as good (IMO) would be Gear Wrench or Ikon (Harbor Fright). I prefer 6 point sockets but there are certain times when a 12 point is what will be required (usually in 1/4 and 3/8 drive only). I also use short, mid and deep sockets so keep that in mind as well. All of my main sockets are Snappies or Matco but my backup sets are SK.

Currently running a couple of TST systems and just upgraded to the new, touchscreen color monitor on both. Wouldn't have anything else.

Another good, mid range clamp meter would be this Klein model: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-CL390-Electronic-Resistance/dp/B08DTDCG7T/ref=asc_df_B08DTDCG7T?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80814222102121&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413749879313&psc=1 I prefer Fluke meters for most of my testers but this one was recommended to me by Chet and so far, it has been flawless.

Trimster, get yourself a DC/AC amp clamp to help troubleshoot electrical issues. It will allow you to see the amps your load is pulling and also the voltage drop in a circuit. Three things I always keep as far as electrical testers go. A GOOD DVOM, a decent DC/AC amp clamp and for DC circuits, a Power Probe 3 or 4 to check and apply grounds and battery voltage in a circuit. For those not really familar with electrical work, look into taking a class or two at your local technical school.

Carl, I checked the plug voltage at the rear of the truck. No power there so that isolated the problem to the truck. Took a look at the tell tale LED's inside the Jackalopee and the one for the left blinker wasn't lit. Checked and verified the voltage going into the Jackalopee so that left it to something wrong in the box. The easy way to check a relay is to swap with another relay and they started working. Always start at the back of the truck. You can eliminate 1/2 of the system that way. If the problem is towards the trailer, check your pigtail at the trailer. That will eliminate the trailer or the pigtail as being the problem. Always eliminate as big a chunk of the electrical system as you can. Another BIG help is to have a Power Probe handy to be able to apply 12v+ or ground to a component to check it. My power probe will stretch out to 20 feet and makes checking grounds easy.

It must be something about Houston. We had an issue with our left turn signal on the trailer not working there a couple of weeks ago. Got out the meter and went to work but that one didn't take too long. We had a bad relay in the Jackalopee so a quick trip to the parts store for a replacement and a few spares, we were back on the road. Sooo, It's almost always the ground except when it isn't.

First and foremost, make sure your cat's driver's license is up to date and not expired if you are going to let it drive to Alaska. Both the RCMP and Alaska troopers' frown on cats driving without a valid license.

One thing that alway strikes me as confusing is the number of people that refer to the voltages as 110/220 (which was phased out starting in the 1930's) or 115/230 (which was phased out starting in the 1970's). The USA standard has been 120/240 since (I think) the adoption of the 1984 electrical code. It has been 120v/240v for 50 years and you still hear the older voltages being used. Edit: Forgot to add, oldjohnt probably remembers DC power distribution back when he was working with Thomas Edison😁😁😁

One other thing, just before you start down the bow tie, there is a pull off parking area on the left that can handle our rigs. Stop there to take in the view and then look behind you at the shear rock face that seems to go up forever. You can get dizzy looking up and the view into Ten Sleep valley is unforgettable. If you need a place to stay in that area, just as you enter Worland, on the right, is Worland RV Park and Campground. They have some long sites at the back that can handle our rigs with ease.

LOL, you will enjoy that road but it does have a good pucker factor in spots. We passed quite a few pickups with overheated transmissions and engines but didn't have an issue with our truck. If you are headed over and into Ten Sleep and Worland, enjoy the view going down the "bow tie". You will know it when you are on it but is has a roughly 1,000 foot drop in a section that looks like a bow tie from a satellite view. Zoom in on 16 east of Ten Sleep and you can see that section in google maps. It is a fun road to drive but you can get a little nervous the first time down. In a HDT, it is not a problem. Just take it easy and enjoy the view. Edit: I would avoid 14 if possible. I have a buddy in Worland that drives for a living and he is very careful if he has to take that route.

Rod, I went with a 24 volt system that is solely used by the inverters for 120v AC power. I still have (2) 12v batteries that are used for hotel loads in the RV that can be charged from shore power, (2) dedicated solar panels or off of the 24v bank. It makes it a little more complicated but allows me to be able to work on each system independently. In my case I already had most of the system in place before going to solar and decided to stay with a Magnum inverter/charger. The only way to get a 4000 watt inverter from Magnum is by going to a 24v system so that required some way to do that and keep a 12v system available. I don't like a single point of failure that a transformer would create so the decision to use two battery banks was an easy one to make. This is similar to a motor home with a chassis battery and a house battery setup except that they don't have the capability to boost each other if needed.

I replaced mine after the first day. The factory headset is marginal at best and now just sits in the box.

One other minor issue. There are some trucks that will back feed from the trailer batteries to the truck when you try to shut the truck off. The end result is you standing there looking at the truck keys in your hand with the engine still running. The addition of a power diode between the 12v output and the wiring to the trailer will solve that problem. I just tucked mine inside the Jackalopee case to keep everything neat and tidy.

Remember, two neutrals don't make a negative. You need to remain positive about your wiring...

This sounds familiar.... We call them artichokes.... An architect is flying in a hot air balloon and realizes he is lost. He reduces his height and spots a man down below. He lowers the balloon further and shouts: “Excuse me, can you tell me where I am?” The man below says: “Yes, you’re in a hot air balloon, you are hovering at approximately 30 feet, and you are between 40 – 41 degrees N. latitude, and between 58-59 degrees W. longitude.”. “You must be an engineer,” says the balloonist. “I am,” replies the man. “How did you know.” “Well,” says the balloonist, “everything you have told me is technically correct, but it’s no use to anyone.” The man below says: “You must be an architect”. “I am,” replies the balloonist, “but how did you know?” “Well,” says the man, “you don’t know where you are, or where you’re going, but you expect me to be able to help. You’re in the same position you were before we met, but now it’s my fault.”

If the truck is a 6x2 with a tag axle (becoming more popular with companies) you can just pull the rear tag axle as the front tandem axle is the only drive axle of the pair.

When it absolutely, positively has to stay rust free, use POR-15 paint. Just make sure you don't get any on your hands as the only way to get it off is to wear it off. That paint is what most pros use on custom frames to prevent them from rusting.

Has anyone used the Freedom Pass from TSD (the fuel card folks)? I think they are good in 26 states now with 5 more states coming online soon. Freedom Pass (myopenroads.com)

Any class 8 truck will pull better, stop better and, in general provide a better ride than a pickup. Our KW got 8.1 mpg today at 50,000 gross running 68mph.

Ray, you can use a small 12dc to 24v dc transformer or many of us use a 24v battery bank for our inverters that we can tap into.

Nothing like laying on your back, pick in hand, flashlight in your mouth with a mirror held by someone else to see what you are doing while trying to fish out 100 feet of wire and bits of crumbled plastic out of a hole in the top of the transmission. Fun times....

Rick, My KW came straight from Kenworth with no limit. Well, I think the gearing limits mine to 102 mph but they should be able to change that for you. If not by a dealer, an independent shop should have the right software to up your limit.

Dave, Those MB engineers were pretty smart designing the smart .... They put them under the front passenger floorboard with the battery.... Most of them have been tossed into the woods after the owner couldn't unlock the car to use it to unlock the car. 😎