GeorgiaHybrid

LOL, in Alaska, the preferred direction is due south.

Without Starlink, we wouldn't have internet or phone service a LOT of the time on our trip to Alaska. You do need a clear sky or be willing to accept interruptions in service when a satellite goes behind an obstruction but it is pretty much the best game in town for remote areas. For home use only, it depends on your situation. If fiberoptic cable is available in your area, it is a much better option. For slower internet options, Starlink is a viable solution. If you travel frequently, and don't want to depend on slow, free Wi-Fi in parks or slow cell service, it is worth taking a long, hard look at it.

If most of your inquiries go south, you might try doing some more research before posting or try to give complete information in the original question. Your reply here sounds like a guy I know. After his 6th marriage went down the tubes, he asked me why all of the women he married were bad.......

Progressive Industries is a surge and EMS protection unit. https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw50c

That might work for the seller but if I'm buying, you get the cash when I get the title. The last RV we sold went to a buyer over 900 miles away. He sent me a picture of the check, I called the bank twice before he got to our house to verify it and once while he was test driving the RV. While he was driving here, I filled out a bill of sale for the RV and had that waiting He came back from the test drive, handed me the check, I filled out the title info and gave it to him, he hooked up his car to the rear of the motorhome and drove 900 miles home. Not all buyers use a local bank for a face to face and not all sellers are comfortable giving out their account numbers.

Always call the bank it is drawn on and give them the check number and amount. They can tell you if it is legitimate or not. Do NOT call a number or person the buyer gives you to verify the check. Look up the number yourself and ask for the person that can verify a cashiers check. If the bank is local, go to that bank and have them verify it. They should be able to verify the name on the check, the check number and the amount.

OK Dan, I have to ask. Now that you have transitioned your fridge to DC only, does it still identify as a RV fridge?

You can use a urethane automotive paint but to make sure it stays on, use an adhesion promoter first. After that, try a base coat of black followed by a catalyzed, semi gloss top coat. The top coat can be bought in a can and has a "button" on the bottom that is pushed in to release the hardener into the paint. https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aerospraytm-high-gloss-matte-clear.html If you take your time and follow the instructions, you shouldn't have any more problems from your plastic trim.

Carl, those fittings are specific to a brand of truck and every HDT wrecker will have a set of adapters. The Paccar ones are not even close to the ones that Volvo uses. https://towinnovation.com/products/tow-coupler-proffessional-kit I had a shop air charger port added to our build that is in a bed compartment. It has a std airline quick coupler that is plumbed to the input side of the airdryer. That makes it pretty easy to fill the tanks from my main compressor in the shop.

Carl, most of the independent companie's techs don't have the equipment a dealer does to solve a canbus issue. Every good dealer that I know of has one tech that is their guru with electrical bus issues. Hopefully, your dealer has a good one.

Carl, Try crimp supply. I buy just about all of my electrical connections from them. This link is for their ring terminals: https://crimpsupply.com/connectors/ring-terminals Edit: I use their Heavy Duty Heat Shrink Ring Terminals.

No idea but if it's made by Apple or Google, you probably need to stock up on tin foil

Look at his title, It's a magnum 2812 inverter. 2800 watts, 12 volts DC.

The fuel in the Davco on my truck will stay at the bottom of the filter if it is new and start going higher as it gets clogged. I really don't think that is your issue. The J1939 communication fault it is showing is the onboard network that ties all of your modules together and the test port (where you hook up a computer for testing) is the J1939 communications port. It sounds more like a loose/bad connection at a module or a break in a wire somewhere.

Use solid works to create a wrap around template to the long point of the tube. Tape it on, mark it or hit it with a little spray paint and you can follow the bevel easily on a tube.

Nah, it's his tin hat. The stud screws into his head to keep it from falling off. 😁

Would weekend idiot make you feel better????

Marty, I am in Dade county but like I said in a post above, the lady that was doing that in our county retired a few years back. I doubt that the youngsters in that office now would know how to word everything and get it by the state.

Marty, the only form that was sent to the state the last time was the registration form from Georgia. That is the one with the mileage, VIN, make, model, etc. She sent mine to the state as a Kenworth T680 motorhome, color blue, and the other information required on the registration form. I think they issued the title as a motorhome because it had never been registered anywhere and they just accepted her placement of the truck in the motorhome classification.

Marty, Georgia has become a pain with our rigs in the last few years. If you are lucky and get a helpful clerk at your local tag office, they might be able to slip it past Atlanta and get it registered. Most are getting turned down if the truck has EVER been registered as a commercial vehicle. In my case, we had a new truck, never before registered and a copy of the build sheet with " not for commercial use, recreational use only" stamped all over it. That pretty much forced them to accept it as an RV. There have been a few others that got one registered as an RV in our county but the gal that was getting it done retired a few years ago. Just keep trying and point out that the options they offer do not fit the intended vehicle use.

I would send you a pic but I'm about 3500 miles away from my truck right now.

I bet you two are quite the sensation when you get out to refuel at a truck stop...

And part 3, check the solenoid.

I clean and pack my bearings once every 5 years or so whether they need it or not. As long as you have them adjusted correctly and the seal isn't leaking, you should be good to go.

Sooo, This group thing has been going on for years then? 😁😁😁😁