Darryl&Rita

Damage from a bent end hitch pin. Throw them out and replace with a proper pin. Damage is on the border of what I'd tolerate. Repair involves welding and machining back to size.

There's many caravan groups passing through our park every summer. Some are brand specific, like Airstream and Newmar, some are personality focused, like naturists (not at our park, please), and many are wide open to anyone willing to pay. As far as buying a disposable RV, just for the trip, I always thought that was a waste of time, but I don't enjoy shopping that much.

How much you got? In all seriousness, it depends on the shop rate in the area you get it done. Have you ever been inside this engine before? Headgaskets aren't indicative of an inframe. Get a manometer on the blowby, so you can make an informed decision. Roll in new main and conn rod bearings, replace the head gaskets, adjust the valvetrain and Jakes, and let her bark.

The only problem I foresee with the Smart Splitter is location. Not many houses in Canada have the laundry centre in the garage. By encouraging easy install, I see extension cords run through walls to get to the garage. Multiple NEC violations, as well as NFPA.

Must be an NEC thing, they're advertising them in Canada as EV compliant.

Derek, I just recently became aware of a new product to make charger installation even cheaper. If the house panel is marginally sized, it must be replaced at the home owners expense. This new item from ConnectDER can remove the need to change the entire service and panel. It does have some restrictions, of course, but is showing how industry is stepping up.

This is a great way to save some money, and get a proven rig package. Buying from someone retiring out of a rig, especially a well maintained one will often be a better long-term value than the progression of RVsoften go through. The drawback is you need to be reasonably sure that the RV lifestyle is for you, but even if it's not, you should be able to sell for very close to your purchase price. Good luck doing that with a new combo.

This will only happen with a smart car. Full stop. If a smart won't work for your use, you will be lengthwise, no alternative. The pin weight of all your future trailers will need to be considered, as well. Lighter trailers can go back further, within reason. The most distance we've seen is 5', even with a lighter rig. This is due to the trailer wagging the truck, due to the longer lever arm the frame length turns into. Minor changes in road surface get magnified, and larger steering corrections are needed. ETA: Allie & Jim typed faster.

Hold on to your underwear! https://www.cnbc.com/2022/09/27/ev-charging-stations-on-highways-dot-approves-50-states-plans.html

Nope, just Alberta fab shop.

That rig was really built as an advertising billboard by Western RV, out of Alberta. If it was Austrailian, the picture would be inverted.

Sorry, Vern. Just seen it this morning. You got it posted, anyway.

Instead of shotgunning parts, do some diagnostics. Get a meter, or at least a test lamp, and a helper. Test voltage into the starter, out of the starter solenoid, at the starter ground connection, at the other end of the starter ground, at the frame groud connection before the battery connection.

In the frozen northern tundra, we've seen entire RVs wrapped in insulated tarps, porches added beside the RV with a wood heater inside, foam insulation added to slide exteriors and as skirting, you name it. It's hard work to live inn an RV below freezing, and harder the colder it gets. You always need to have an escape plan for the day you can't put enough BTU into the RV. This can come from a broken part on the furnace, a late propane delivery, or propane not vapourizing fast enough in the tank to run the heater. An apartment or basement suite is more money, at first blush, but the expenses add up for lot rent, propane, and power. The uncertainty is also a heavy weight, if you're away from your home for any length of time daily.

Dealer batteries are probably the best bang for the buck you'll find. Available everywhere, usually sold as a loss-leader t get buyers in the door.

Strips on each end of the slide points to SwinTech slides. Good luck.

Ray, I meant a key physically not working, not an accessability setting.

Y'all are an enlightening look into the future for a younger generation. Yah, I'm gonna go with enlightening.

Ray, maybe you have a sticky key in the sequence. It works for me. Now, I just have to figure out why I need it, before I forget how to get to it.

Quicker and easier than polish, I suppose.

Yup. The MDT and HDT market has been nearly ham-strung over sensor backorders, and the dealerships and service Tech's have been quietly installing "temporary approval" software just to keep material moving. Theoretically, your Ram pickup isn't currently eligible for any software but factory, but I know the service Tech's with lower morals have been installing MDT software patches into 3500 series Cummins engines to keep them running with missing sensors.

If you're running an older vehicle, you'll get the opacity test. This means that oversize injectors could get you a fail, Otherwise, assuming you're keeping up with your maintenance, you should be good to go. Newer vehicles will need to have all factory installed emissions equipment installed, and functioning. Deleted? You've been warned. Given the amount of trafic in California, you may or may not want to run the gamble, but I think the odds favour the tourist, at this time.

Trying to re-mix the mayo that's been in the fridge a bit too long. Easier to just go buy a new jar.

Bottom of the bowl, there should be a hex head. Lefty loosey, carefully, as the bowl will follow it out, and down, Gas will spill, be ready with a rag, and shirt sleeves rolled up past the elbow.

If you can get a key in there, you can get a short piece of pipe on it. Prepare to be underwhelmed with how robust these locks are.