Darryl&Rita

The reason car/truck wheel bearings go so much further than trailer wheel bearings comes down to one thing: Unit bearings. They're faster to install on the production line, never need adjustment or lube, and aren't subject to the vagaries of a mechanics touch. If you've had that many failures with that service routine, you're the problem. Either adjusted too tight, or too loose. Something in your procedure is flawed.

Your engineering Rule of Thumb is flawed, too. Engine main bearings definitely slide, yet they're oil lubed. Crawler tractor bearings run on grease.

We're not worried about cell connection, as much as WiFi. We have installed Ubiquity equipment in our summer job park, with a couple of U6 mesh boosters. The installation of these devices required some back-end access that we don't have in our winter digs. The booster literally needs to be plug-and-play. Too many of Unifi's products also seem to be on eternal backorder, as are most things with an electronic chip inside. I'm not having much luck in a search for a router to mount outside, so specific models would help.

Here's a question to the group, with a little slant towards Joel (docj). What's on the market to get WiFi extended into a shadow zone. We have a park model, with a metal roof, and a metal awning. The adjacent rigs are allowing the park WiFi to reach the front half of the park model, but the rear half has no signal. Cell networks are also temperamental in the rear half, so a hotspot won't help. Any guidance?

We have trailers with greased bearings, and with oil bath. Each was bought as is, and each works fine for the application. Never looked into changing one for the other, but I suspect we'd just swap out the whole axle.

Some housings can't have the needed parts added, too much steel in the way. Cheapest way would be salvage yard axle swap. Freshen everything while it's out and easy to work on, then slide it under. Asking pricing is too location dependant, as shop rates are different all over.

I think you're on the right track.

No data to back it, but I have a suspicion the "cash buyer" market trends might be getting skewed by firms such as Blackstone.

We've ran a commercial policy underwritten by a commercial company since day one. 13 page application, listing cargo value, border crossings per year, miles per quarter, etc. Filled (honestly), and sent in. Payments were, and continue to be, less than anyone else in Alberta was willing to quote. Given that the population of Canada is 10% that of the US, and Alberta is 11.5% of the total, we're a pretty small market to underwrite. We were glad to have any coverage, at one point.

Derek, thank you for posting these. Although we have no connection, they have sparked conversation at Happy Hour. They've also convinced some to get signed up for the emails. I know of 2 vets, 1 Vietnam, 1 of Gulf 1, who we've passed on beneficial info, and made a difference.

Personally, I think it's bad forum practice to edit a post that's been pointed out as having an error, and corrected. I will let it remain as a stain on my record, rather than try to scrub the shame.

TyPiNg FAsTeR tH4n braNe W0rK

Fusion, which is what we're using now, involves splitting atoms. Fusion, as above, involves combining atoms. Less harmful byproducts, less chance of a runaway. There's more big words, but that's the 10 second version.

You're using more battery than is being replaced. The RV charge wiring on most vehicles is barely adequate with no load on the RV batteries. The system likely never worked ideally, and new batteries only masked the issue. There's a number of write-ups online, regarding upgrading charge line size, connections, and voltage output. Time to do some research in that direction.

In the model years you're looking at now, Cummins offered the N 14, then the ISX. The N 14 was bulletproof, the ISX, not so much. Detroit offered the 60 series, which is probably the "go to" engine for those who have a choice. Cheap to operate, cheap to repair, cheap to run. Volvo had the D 13, then the D 15. The D 13 is a great engine, the 15 is close. It's not in your model years, but skip the D 16. Also, avoid the MBE engine, too little support anymore. In order of repair costs, Detroit cheapest, N 14, DD 13. Best fuel mileage, again Series 60, then a tossup between the N 14, and DD 13. Maintenance items are pretty much even, as all the top 3 engines have been around long enough to have good aftermarket support. All the engine builders also offered "small block" engines, such as the Cummins M 10, the small Series 60, but I wouldn't waste time looking for oa truck specific with one. The smaller engines were usually ordered for the stripped fleet trucks, and worked hard. They're out there, but do you want the truck it's wrapped inside? ETA: Cat made road engines until the '05 model year. 3406/C 16 will pull the stink off a dead hog, the C 15 ACERT engines were a headache, but most of the bugs should be worked out of any you would buy today. Parts/maintenance are priced to match the gold paint they're covered with. Fuel mileage tended to run to the bottom of the pack.

Sounds like either the lock is seized from lack of use, or the ignition tumbler has been swapped and not keyed to match the car.

Yah, the size limit is the reason we've never used the on-site storage.

Can't change the cable with the bike loaded?

Dave, do you have a 451 or 453? I'm not sure of the 453 construction, but the 450 and 451 linkage is all inside the door panel, where a Slim Jim can't get to it. The lock is direct connected to a solenoid, there's not even any linkage to grab. You might try going to the interior door release on the opposite side and pulling it, while prying the window open a crack.

Talk to your local Ag dealer, too. They run similar deals to the truck shops, and use batteries to get customers in the door.

I think I understand what you're looking for, now. Click on your icon in the top, right corner. Select "My Attachments", delete away.

Friends have a Newmar w the Ford V10. Not sure if it's the Baystar model. It dropped a valve 2 years into ownership, the Ford dealer in Texas took care of them, under warranty. Only trouble they've had with it. We changed a couple interior lights out for brighter ones, but that was an age related issue, rather than a marque issue. They've used it extensively for summer and winter travels, and have found the floorplan to work for them. I, personally find the ceiling a little too low, but short of an Alfa, they all seem that way to me.

Delete them from your storage website. Poof, they're gone. All the forums will now show broken links, instead of pics, but such is the internet.

We still have a class 8 Sterling, 1998 model, N14/18 speed on the farm. 2 million miles, replaced every driveline component at least once, still making $$$. Don't even get me going on farm trucks.

Yay for happy campers.