Jackalopee and Brake Controller

[Nwcid]

*** Update 1/28/21****  See below. 

 

Now that I have my HDT time to start making it work for me.  Current weight of my HDT is 20,500 with full fuel tanks and I expect to add about 1000 lbs of "permanent" fixtures.  Also there will likely be another 1500-2500 lbs of variable weight, UTV, fresh water/holding, misc tool box.  I am a long wheel base at 265 and I am staying tandem.  

Currently we are pulling a tandem axel toy hauler with electric brakes and GRVW of about 17,000.  Way in the future (5-10 years) we will be getting a new trailer.  This will likely either be a triple axel 21,000 with electric brakes or a commercial trailer as a base that would have air brakes. 

 

I think the first question is about installing the Jackalopee.  I know people typically just wire in the end of the commercial wire.  I would like to keep the ability to haul a commercial style trailer if needed.  Is it better to "split" the truck line and run one to the Jackalopee and one back to the truck receptacle, or is it better just to put a pigtail on the Jackalopee and plug it into the truck receptacle?

With what I am trying to do, what break controller would be most appropriate?  I know there is a lot of options on this. 

I had a Prodigy P2 in my previous dually and was happy with it and they are about $125.  It looks like the Direct Link controllers are very nice but with all the stuff for an HDT is over $500.   

Edited January 29, 2021 by Nwcid

[Jaydrvr]

I just have mine in a box which I attach when I'm towing the fiver. The commercial cable plugs into the front of it and the fiver cable plugs into the back side of it. I like not changing anything on the tractor side of things. Re the Tuson DirectLink, it's a little pricey, but it's plug'n play easy.. Works really well. Jay

[Nwcid]

3 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

I just have mine in a box which I attach when I'm towing the fiver. The commercial cable plugs into the front of it and the fiver cable plugs into the back side of it. I like not changing anything on the tractor side of things. Re the Tuson DirectLink, it's a little pricey, but it's plug'n play easy.. Works really well. Jay

Do you run your commercial plug to the back of the truck and put the Jackalopee there when needed?

I was planning on mounting the Jackalopee on/in the cab and running RV wiring to the tail of the truck and putting in an RV receptacle.  

 

For the controller, the Prodigy is as plug and play as the Direct Link.  I still have to run the same amount of wires to power and to the Jackalopee.  The only difference is the the Prodigy is activated on inertia where the Direct Link is "computer" controlled. 

 

[rickeieio]

I did much the same as Jaydrvr, except I mounted the Jackalopee to the back of the cab so it can be seen from the rear of the truck.  Very convenient if you have any 'lectrical issues, using the led's for seeing what's going on.  I may move the Jackalopee under the trailer hitch so any commercial HDT can move our trailer, as we have BluDot.

[Jaydrvr]

1 hour ago, Nwcid said:

Do you run your commercial plug to the back of the truck and put the Jackalopee there when needed?

I was planning on mounting the Jackalopee on/in the cab and running RV wiring to the tail of the truck and putting in an RV receptacle.  

 

For the controller, the Prodigy is as plug and play as the Direct Link.  I still have to run the same amount of wires to power and to the Jackalopee.  The only difference is the the Prodigy is activated on inertia where the Direct Link is "computer" controlled. 

 

I'll try to post a pic, but it's hard to do on the phone. I mount my temporary box on the frame near the commercial fifth wheel and plug the commercial cable from the truck into it. I haven't changed anything on my truck's electrical hookup. Jay

[Jaydrvr]

1 hour ago, Nwcid said:

Do you run your commercial plug to the back of the truck and put the Jackalopee there when needed?

I was planning on mounting the Jackalopee on/in the cab and running RV wiring to the tail of the truck and putting in an RV receptacle.  

 

For the controller, the Prodigy is as plug and play as the Direct Link.  I still have to run the same amount of wires to power and to the Jackalopee.  The only difference is the the Prodigy is activated on inertia where the Direct Link is "computer" controlled. 

 

https://i.imgur.com/eHP4W4rl.jpg

This is my temporary setup. I'm working on the permanent solution, but not there yet. Still using the same location. Jay

Edited December 20, 2020 by Jaydrvr

[Nwcid]

43 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

I'll try to post a pic, but it's hard to do on the phone. I mount my temporary box on the frame near the commercial fifth wheel and plug the commercial cable from the truck into it. I haven't changed anything on my truck's electrical hookup. Jay

Your description makes sense.  Thank you.

 

Your image link is bad.

 

[Nwcid]

1 hour ago, rickeieio said:

I did much the same as Jaydrvr, except I mounted the Jackalopee to the back of the cab so it can be seen from the rear of the truck.  Very convenient if you have any 'lectrical issues, using the led's for seeing what's going on.  I may move the Jackalopee under the trailer hitch so any commercial HDT can move our trailer, as we have BluDot.

That is the location I was planning on.  I will make a final decision when I actually get all the parts.

I had considered mounting it to the truck, however it is more likely that I would need to move another trailer vs needing mine moved.  If I did need mine moved, it can still be done with a dually, gooseneck and RV plug.  

I just dont want to modify the HDT to the point I could not sell it to a commercial user if I ever needed to.

 

Edited December 20, 2020 by Nwcid

[Jaydrvr]

34 minutes ago, Nwcid said:

Your description makes sense.  Thank you.

 

Your image link is bad.

 

The link works for me. Sorry. 

[rickeieio]

1 hour ago, Nwcid said:

Your description makes sense.  Thank you.

 

Your image link is bad.

 

Right click, then post the link in a new tab.

[Nwcid]

4 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Right click, then post the link in a new tab.

That worked.  Thank you.

 

[Moresmoke]

I mounted my Jackalopee to the front of the aluminum headboard I have on the truck. Not the most serviceable spot, but out of the way.  I use the Jackalopee as a junction box. One cable in that plugs into the original socket on the back of the cab, one commercial cable out to a socket on the headboard by the air hoses. One cable out to a 7 pin RV plug at the bottom of the headboard that my bed plugs into and supply’s the bumper hitch plug for our TT. The last cable out goes to another RV plug next to the gooseneck ball hitch on the back of the frame.

This pic of my wiring give some folks here heartburn, but it works for me.

Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

Pic 4

Pic 5

Note: I have a removable bed so that is the reason to have the bed wiring plug in. (My toy hauler is a hydraulic detach...)

I use a P3 for a brake controller. Some folks look down on them, but for moderate sized electric brakes trailers I think it works just fine. My TT is really no consequence as far as braking is concerned, but I do pull a 20k gooseneck and I am satisfied with the P3 on that.

Edited December 21, 2020 by Moresmoke
Trying to figure out this picture thing.

[phoenix2013]

Installation options.

https://i.imgur.com/68J2a39l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TkYuXWLl.jpg

Another option on an ET hitch the front panel of the hitch

https://i.imgur.com/i0YWoPTl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/By2RKQ6l.jpg

Now for a tip for "neat wiring".

https://i.imgur.com/QkjpdQ6l.jpg

On the truck side crimp first the white wire than the black wire, two bottom tabs. On the trailer side crimp the white wire first (bottom tab) and the black wire (top tab). Where to cut each wire? Grab each wire with you fingers, form a small loop and bring it to its designated tab by color. Cut at the point where the wire touches the top edge of the tab. Strip quarter of an inch of insulation (that's all you need to strip), crimp with good crimpers. Use medium size needle nose pliers to push the lug onto the tabs. No "gorilla" push, you'll bend it, the lugs are tight but will go on, work it.

https://i.imgur.com/Ww2zw4sl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/olfnlFcl.jpg

Edited December 22, 2020 by phoenix2013

[phoenix2013]

What's going on with the photo links?

https://i.imgur.com/lQiAkcRl.jpg

Edited December 22, 2020 by phoenix2013

[Wrknrvr]

  Remove the img in front and at the end before you post it here.  Darryl told me that. And it works for me.

 

   Vern in a T-shirt 

[Shawn Patterson]

I did mine like some of the other comments above...

[Nwcid]

Thanks.  

Looks like I am on the right track.  

 

Now to decide on what controller.  

I thought the Haynes air controller was discontinued, but apparently it is not.  Now I am debating between it and the Direct Link.  I am leaning toward the DL since my truck has ABS, traction control, hill start, etc.....

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Go with a DirectLink on a newer truck, you will not regret it.

[GlennWest]

I use Bludot air over hydraulic. Flawless

Edited December 21, 2020 by GlennWest

[phoenix2013]

12 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

Installation options.

https://i.imgur.com/68J2a39l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TkYuXWLl.jpg

Another option on an ET hitch the front panel of the hitch

https://i.imgur.com/i0YWoPTl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/By2RKQ6l.jpg

Now for a tip for "neat wiring".

https://i.imgur.com/QkjpdQ6l.jpg

On the truck side crimp first the white wire than the black wire, two bottom tabs. On the trailer side crimp the white wire first (bottom tab) and the black wire (top tab). Where to cut each wire? Grab each wire with you fingers, form a small loop and bring it to its designated tab by color. Cut at the point where the wire touches the top edge of the tab. Strip quarter of an inch of insulation (that's all you need to strip), crimp with good crimpers. Use medium size needle nose pliers to push the lug onto the tabs. No "gorilla" push, you'll bend it, the lugs are tight but will go on, work it.

https://i.imgur.com/Ww2zw4sl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/olfnlFcl.jpg

I took Vern's advice and it works if you click on the links, but it's mickey mouse compared to the way it worked for years.

[Darryl&Rita]

10 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

I took Vern's advice and it works if you click on the links, but it's mickey mouse compared to the way it worked for years.

Henry, Vern missed a step or 2. The "IMG" stripping needs to be done when using the Other Media, too. The Other Media button will allow the pic to show up in the post, rather than as a link.

[Wrknrvr]

Just a test []https://i.imgur.com/E3djO3dl.jpg

 

 this is a picture of a squirrels business in a Motorhome 

  Vern in a T-shirt 

[Wrknrvr]

  Well something else went wrong today. The photo posting worked since Darryl told me how to do it. But now it did not.

  I have other stuff to do today. Will try later

 

  Vern in a T-shirt 

[Nigel]

https://i.imgur.com/E3djO3dl.jpg

Vern lose the brackets on the left side of your link

[Wrknrvr]

Had it and lost it.   

Now it is back.    I need two smart pills today

 

  Vern in a T-shirt