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50 amp rig with only 30 amp pedestal


SuiteSuccess

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Gonna be staying for a week in a campground and will only have 30 amp service. Know about dog bone adapters Etc. and that 50 amp is really 70 amps more than a 30 amp circuit. (50 amp X 2 circuits = 100 amps vs. 30 amps on single circuit.). Also aware of amp draws of ACs, microwave, etc but will be cool so shouldn't need but one AC, may just need heat pump, frig and will do water heater on propane. So to the question, has anyone used one of these to get close to 45 amps and any drawbacks to using? Already checked with campground and they said ok to try. http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55025-Power-Maximizer-Adapter/dp/B0024E70L2?tag=viglink20327-20

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I own one BUT, have never used it. I understand that the GFCI on the 15 / 20 amp outlet will NOT be compatible and will keep shutting that leg down. IF you temporarily swap a non-GFCI duplex outlet, it should then work. Just remember to re-install the GFCI outlet before you leave.

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Suite: Our rig is also set up for 50A, but we often camp at places with 30A or even 20A service. If you only run one A/C, and use the microwave/fridge/etc., you should have no problem. I know we've run the fridge, 1 A/C, water heater, and microwave on 30A before. Without the water heater, I would think you would be just fine.

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I hope you get this figured out Carl. I'm working on a battery system and all that to where this isn't a problem--but you have to do it the hard way before I can proceed! ;)

 

The comment above about GFCI is correct. If you have a spare converter (as opposed to an integrated inverter/charger), hook that up directly to the 20A outlet and disconnect shore power (or tinker with the settings on one of those fancy ones) so that your inverter loads are pulling from the batteries and the batteries are being charged with the 20A outlet. You can run two air conditioners just fine on 30A--you might occasionally get a breaker trip if they both try to start at exactly the same time (I would like to think that Dometic put in logic to prevent that since you have one thermostat controlling both), but it should be rare.

 

Alternatively, if it's not too difficult and you have an inverter/charger and no converter, hook up the shore power input on the inverter to the 30A outlet. If need be, you can run off of the batteries during the day (if you need more than 20A), and charge overnight.

 

When I'm in Huntsville, it's always at an older park with only 30A and a 15A outlet. Two air conditioners are fine with nothing else, and the charger handled the intermittent stuff.

 

I actually spent my month or so in Knoxville hooked up to 30A (saving a whole $1/day!), with the lithium batteries running everything but the air conditioners and electric water heater. The charger is set to top off during overnight hours, and I recently added logic so it can look at whether one or both air conditioners are running before starting a charge cycle. If the temperature inside gets a little on the warm side, it will stop charging to power both ACs. At one point I had 2 ACs, electric water heater, refrigerator, microwave, sous vide cooker, and portable ice maker running at the same time! If you can't tell, I'm having fun with this stuff.

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Thanks for the comments folks. David, guess I'm gonna have to get me one of those running wheels like the hamsters have and label it "Deep Space Proving Grounds", lol.

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Well, I tested one of those things out years ago. Checked to see that the 20A outlet wasn't GFCI, thought I'd be good. But they had a GFCI breaker on another pedestal that shut me down.

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Carl, I have one of those and use it from time to time. It will work fine given the considerations discussed above.

 

However, you likely do not need it. I routinely plug into 30 amps and run one AC unit. You just have to monitor other usage. Should be no big deal.

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I routinely plug into 30 amps and run one AC unit. You just have to monitor other usage. Should be no big deal.

 

X2! What I don't understand are some 50A RV owners who act as if they are literally doomed to a primitive existence if they can't get 50A hookups. I'm not joking; I've encountered this in multiple forums. We were on a 30A connection all last summer on PEI; sure we didn't have to use our A/C very often, but we did have to forego our electric heating system. But we did survive.

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We've run on 30 amp for 5 months at a time and were able to use our electric heater when needed, 1 air conditioner when needed and always ran the big 4 dr frig and water heater on electric. If the air or heater was on and we wanted to use the microwave/convection, we just shut 1 of the other items off while we used it. No big deal and we were not tripping breakers either. Also clean * shower daily - sometimes 2 X, cool or warm whichever is needed.

 

We have run into some people at campground that thought they could ONLY run on 50 amp - did not know about the adapters and did not know it is possible to fully operate with what you need on 30 amp. Heck, we run into people all the time that use the bath houses because they do not know that they can connect to water or fill a tank and run a pump -- didn't even know there was a pump on board even though there was a very visible switch that said "pump". Gotta just shake you head some times.

Pat DeJong

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The post was just asking about anyone's experience with that particular connection. I didn't know it existed and was exploring options. I have no problems with having to connect to 30 amp and we will be just fine.

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220 volt, 50 amp pedestal does not grant 100 amps. Unless you count each separate 110V as accumulative. It still trips at 50A.

You are correct. Each leg trips at 50 amps and the wiring in a 50 amp trailer typically has loads that will not exceed that per leg, such as one AC, microwave etc. while second leg will have something like other AC, frig, water heater. That is my understanding, please correct if I am wrong.

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2017 DRV 39DBRS3

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We have used a connection like that with no issue. Wouldn't want to have to use it in Oklahoma for the summer, but if you''re going to be in cool climates, and you remember how to live on 30amp or so, it's worth the cost of the adapter.

Remember to take a regular duplex outlet with you in case you need to change the outlet on the pedestal.

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This got me a thinkin.

 

When we installed the Magnum hybrid inverter, we moved the inverter loads to a sub panel. We ended up with most of the non-inverter loads on one 50A leg and the inverter loads and a couple other on the second 50A leg. I forget the details and my schematic isn't with me, but pretty sure both AC units are on the non-inverter leg. So . . . this adapter could work pretty well if the adapter 30A circuit feeds the non-inverter leg and the 15A circuit feeds the inverter leg. With this arrangement I can't imagine why we couldn't run the full suite of loads since each leg would have at least 30A available. Of course, depending on battery capacity the inverter load sharing is limited in duration.

 

Devil is in the details and would have to look at which leg the dryer water heater are on and etc. I think this adapter may have value if your configuration is similar to ours. But I'm also a fan of running the separate 15A circuit to the converter/charger and letting the inverter cover its loads through the batteries.

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We adapt 30 to 50 all the time with no problems. We run one of the two air conditioners, residential frig, TV, hot water heater even the Kurig at the same time with no problems. What usually pops the breaker is adding the microwave and hair dryer with everything else.

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Carl, I have one of those and use it from time to time. It will work fine given the considerations discussed above.

 

However, you likely do not need it. I routinely plug into 30 amps and run one AC unit. You just have to monitor other usage. Should be no big deal.

 

 

My experience as well. Used it about 6 years ago in FL at a park with no GFI. Came across it a while back and started to wonder why I am even carrying it around, We spend all winter in AZ on 30 amps with no issue and occasional single AC use.

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Carl, I have installed a 20 amp marine plug on the outside of the camper that runs to a single outlet in the kitchen area (similar to this one but 20A). When hooked to a 30 amp pedestal I can run a separate #12 extension cord from the duplex outlet in the pedestal to the input on the camper. It is not a perfect system but it gives me an extra 20 amp outlet for coffee maker, space heater, vacuum, induction cook top or microwave. Depending on access for the inlet plug and where you locate the outlet it could be an easy install.

 

Not sure how your fiver is wired but it is not unusual for the water heater and the converter/charger to have caps on the end of their pigtails that plug into regular outlets in the basement of the fiver rather than being hardwired. I have unplugged the converter and/or the electric water heater and plugged them into an extension cord connected to the 20 amp (maybe 15 amp?) at the pedestal. These cheats work fine with a GFCI. Hope you enjoy your trip!

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In Canada most campground only have 30 amp if you are lucky. Myself and Ralf head way up north were there 30 amp sevice only gives us 105 to 109 VAC and I have no issue running the heat pump or A.C. Like Jack said though you have to be aware of other big voltage items. coffee maker, toaster, ect. I cannot run the surge protector since it shut the power off dure to low voltage :(.

Oh and if the pedisal has a 15 amp plug along with the 30 amp, use that for the truck or something you might run out side the trailer instead of using the outside trailer plug.

Kevin

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I sure like a real 50 amp service, and in ND, I have two 50 amp plugs from 60 amp fuses.

 

That said I've been comfortable on 30 amps, just need to shed loads with my brain.

 

It's easy to shed two water heaters, either or both AC units, space heaters, charger, and the fridge with switches inside.

 

I have been dumb enough to have a space heater kick on an AC unit once but not dumb enough to do it twice!

 

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The only time we have had an issue when on a 30 amp outlet is in the morning. Coffee maker, microwave, hairdryer or whatever and pop goes the breaker. To avoid who has what on we found its a lot easier to start the gen and run it for 30 to 45 min when the rush is over shut it down.

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Suite, I used that pig tail this weekend at Campark in Williamsburg Va for 4 days this weekend. Campark is the old Williamsburg Pottery Camp Ground. They have plenty of electrical problems. I have had it for 4 or 5 years and use it whenever I can't get 50 amps. 45 takes care of it. Have never had any problems inside the 5er. Yes i say it works. Especially in the summer and you need to run 2 AC units. I don't remember getting it off of Ebay but it was ordered off of the net. Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

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Suite, I used that pig tail this weekend at Campark in Williamsburg Va for 4 days this weekend. Campark is the old Williamsburg Pottery Camp Ground. They have plenty of electrical problems. I have had it for 4 or 5 years and use it whenever I can't get 50 amps. 45 takes care of it. Have never had any problems inside the 5er. Yes i say it works. Especially in the summer and you need to run 2 AC units. I don't remember getting it off of Ebay but it was ordered off of the net. Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

Thanks Pat. We are going to be in Williamsburg soon. Glad to hear your review of of Campark. We ended up getting a site at the Williamsburg/Lightfoot KOA on the "quiet" side. You ever stayed there?

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2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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