bjarm Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 The rear driver side cab airbag on our 1999 Volvo 610 ruptured tonite. Anyone know part number, difficulty to replace, special tools needed to replace? Thank you! Bruce 1999 Volvo 610 Detroit 12.7, 4.70, 10 speed, 40' Teton Too many motorcycles and not enough time www.shredx.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forxlr8n Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 Easy to replace. 1) Remove air line 2) remove spring clip and air fitting on the bottom of it 3) unscrew the top of the bag from the cab by hand ( it might need a pair of channel lock to get it started). 4) unhook the leveling arm and raise the cab up as high as it will go. use a small scissor jack on the bad bag side. "If you can not measure it, you can not improve it." Lord Kelvin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 Try and search for more on this. There are a couple of threads that go into this in detail. One thing to know before you raise that cab! OPEN your hood. This apparently stops you from doing some damage on the front of your hood. No personal experience with damage - because I learned it here! You may need to put more than a pair of channel locks on there to break it loose. I had to cut the back away with a utility knife, and then put a pipe wrench on the top to get it off. It is a one man job, but if you listen to Henry and I, you'll have a lot easier time with a helper. Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 While your in there check the condition of the cross member that it mounts to. It may need to be replaced also as they rust sometimes and it is bad. No swearing allowed. Safe Travel, Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Are we having fun yet? We replaced the cross member, and nearly all the associated bags/shocks/hardware this past December. I had to cut away the rubber bag to access the top of the unit, then as described above, used a pipe wrench to turn it. It's tight in there, and I'm not an average size guy, plus I'm getting old. Kneeling under the truck for a couple of hours on cold concrete is no fun. Having a wife who loves to "wrench" makes it more enjoyable. Plus, she can wriggle into the tighter spots better than I. Kroil and patience will be necessary, but you will prevail. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spindrift Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Kroil and patience will be necessary, but you will prevail. Another Kroil convert?! Bless you Rick. 2012 F350 KR CC DRW w/ some stuff 2019 Arctic Fox 32-5MCindy and Tom, Kasey and Maggie (our Newfie and Berner) Oh...I forgot the five kids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Another Kroil convert?! Bless you Rick. I buy it in a 5 gallon can, and refill squirt bottles. Best bottle I've found are WD-40 quart size. I have them all over my shop, one in my pickup box, one in the garage..........expensive and worth every penny. Sili-Kroil works great on power window mechanisms, locks, hinges, etc. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix2013 Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 DO NOT PUT CHANNEL LOCKS OR ANY TORQUE MULTIPLIER ON THE BAG TO UNSCREW IT!!!!! It screws into a weldnut which is welded inside a floor reinforcing sheet metal channel. Get it, small weldnut spot welded to sheet metal. If it doesn't want to unscrew and you force it, you will break those piddly little welds on the nut, it will now spin inside that channel in perfect harmony with the bag holding on to the air bag fast. Ask me how do I know? It happened to me on on two of them and that's after I knew it was going to happened after the first one. Had to cut the rubber off on the bags and then saw off the stud trapped in the nut and the upper air bag plate. Start by liberally spraying DW40 or some other good rust breaking stuff into the channel to encourage the stud to "let go". I'd say for couple of days. If it does, do not haul on it, go back and forth on it to get through the rust. If you break off the nut, I'll have to dig out the photos in my archives showing you how we fixed it. Don't know what the bag part number is, we called Volvo dealer they had two in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 Henry's right, for the most part. Be very careful not to break that weld-nut loose. Thus my recommendation for Kroil. Forget the WD-40...you might as well sneeze on it, for all it's rust dissolving properties. Kroil can be difficult to find, not generally sold in stores, though I did see it at a Bobcat dealer. Some other penetrants work reasonably well, but WD-40 was not intended as a loosening agent. Rust Buster, PB Blaster, Nocker-Loose, and other come to mind. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 A mix of Acetone and transmission fluid works well also as a rust breaker. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpsinc Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 I learned a while back that WD-40 is an acronym for W-water D-displacer 40-40th formula. It isnt a lubricant nor a rust dissolver nor anything else other than what it is called. Amazing how advertising works. Kroil is the best stuff ever for mechanical work. You will find it on almost every industrial site where mechanical work is being done. WD-40-Ah, not so much, but I guess it better than nothing at all. Marcel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 A mix of Acetone and transmission fluid works well also as a rust breaker. In scientific tests, it's better than Kroil, though likely hard on paint. Kroil, on the other hand, will bring new life to old paint. I used it to bring the faded, chalked paint back on a 1927 Henderson motorcycle. Squirt it on and rub, using cigar ashes for a little grit. As a bonus, there was a pretty girl doing the same on the other side of the bike, though she wasn't smoking a cigar. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 Henry's right, for the most part. Be very careful not to break that weld-nut loose. Thus my recommendation for Kroil. Forget the WD-40...you might as well sneeze on it, for all it's rust dissolving properties. Kroil can be difficult to find, not generally sold in stores, though I did see it at a Bobcat dealer. Some other penetrants work reasonably well, but WD-40 was not intended as a loosening agent. Rust Buster, PB Blaster, Nocker-Loose, and other come to mind. I found KROIL on Amazon $13.00 a can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Holy cow!..I googled "kroil" and found prices all over the board. Sears looked to be the worst, and buying direct from Kano Labs, http://www.kanolabs.com/ looked to be nearly the best. Last time I bought it, a 5 gallon can was about $200, and is still about $229. I keep Aerokroil, Silikroil, and Penephite in my arsenal. Oh, and plenty of anti-seize. BTW, when a can of anti-seize has been left open and gets dry, a bit of Kroil works well to bring it back to life. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCooter Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 I found KROIL on Amazon $13.00 a can In the basket! I always thought PB Blaster was the bomb, but always looking for something better! Did a clutch at the shop yesterday on a truck that has spent it's entire life on the coast and at the beach......... Hosed it down with PB the day before and not a single bolt broke! 1999 Peterbilt 385 C12 430/1650 13spd 2006 Dodge 3500 DRW 4x4 2010 Hitchhiker Champagne 36 LKRSB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.