Darryl&Rita

Mechanics of install? Measure, measure, measure. Buy a fridge. Now, think about cutting. It's not hard, but buying the right fridge for your RV helps.

2/3rd's of the way through August, and both DriveBC and Yukon Highways were advising against travel, going as far as closing the AlCan for a bit. Snow in mountain passes can happen at almost anytime of the year. Watch the forecast, keep your tanks topped up, and have provisions needed for overnight on board.

Advice? Shop carefully, preferably in person. Model numbers can shift between retailers, resulting in measurement creep and a fridge that doesn't fit. If you want to keep the warranty in good standing, confirm that the fridge will run on an inverter before buying. Also, check what the manufacturer requires for ambient temps, as these can void a warranty, too.

Thank you, Alice, for a humorous look back at all the things we have learned along the way. Our Monday is complete.

Do you have 12 volts at the solenoid? does the solenoid pass power to the starter? Let's start there.

Use a few flexible cutting boards between the drum and the shoes. Chock the tires for insurance.

Humidity rusting the shoes to the drums? When was the last time your S-Cams were greased?

Nothing wrong with a 4Runner as a toad, assuming it has the manual transfer case.

Check your front cab mounts.

Howe's. Have used it in all my Cummins engines, all the way back to the old 12 valve. They run quieter, start faster, but don't get any better mileage.

Teflon paste. Typically this:

Along the lines of the old CJ 2A. Load it until it breaks, unload 2 lbs, drive away. YJ's were totally underappreciated Jeep models, given they bridged a lot of new technology introductions. Carb to fuel injection, electronic ignition, etc.

So many decisions...Rickeieio, or work.

Must be the oilfield mentality. Fairly common in Alberta, too.

Too many! I seem to recall seeing 300 kg, including passenger(s), but don't quote me on that. This was for a 450 model, but I don't recall the newer models.

Less training, less follw-up, less experience.

What I'm saying is the increased current draw, on multiple RV sites, has to affect the feeder line current. This, then affects the neighbors, and leads to brown-outs and black-outs. One could assume that a park with 10, 30 amp sites must have a 300 amp service, but you know they don't. Due to derating, as allowed by the NEC and CEC, they might have as small as a 100 amp service. Poor decisions of the past is now coming home to roost. Don't forget, code is the bare minimum allowed, not what should be installed.

Think farther up the conductor, Kirk. I can sort of see the argument of stressing already stressed infrastructure, but the true answer would be to have proper infrastructure in place, in the first place. Canadians have a very similar electric code to the NEC, but most of the country doesn't see the temp/humidity combination of so many areas of the US. This gives us the advantage of lower electric loads, so our infrastructure sees less stress.

Unsecured personal loan?

Well, you've all convinced me. Next time I'm working anywhere above the ground, I'm using a proper fall-arrest harness. I put in an order for a new one today, but I'll have to keep using my old one in the meantime:

Our deck plate is 1/4" checker-plate steel, held down with 4 1/2" bolts. The bottom of the plate is gusseted with angle and square tubing. to match the carrying capacity of the deck itself. It's probably overbuilt, but I'd rather that than underbuilt. The bolts are recessed into pipe sleeves, to remove any tripping hazard. The nuts are welded in place.

Blonde moment. In this case, I agree. You need a different Freightliner dealer.

Hard to put miles on when it's sitting, waiting for warranty work.

Take the light off and look for any markings on it. Lights and reflectors were often sourced from other vehicles, like Ford vans. Freightliner won't have a clue, because they only built a chassis. ETA: Somewhere on the internet, I've seen an interchange guide for a bunch of motorhome chassis' and where the signal, tail, and marker lights were sourced from.

Without a ladder, look in the trailers wiring bundle. It should have a relay somewhere to turn on the scare lights via the reverse lights. Pull the relay out, try again. The relay might be in the basement, or even in the box where the umbilical cord ends.