castlewood57 Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 I am having some problems with my truck, got it back from the shop and all was well for 68 miles. I stopped 2 miles from my home at the local quickie mart. Got back in the truck and it wouldn't start. Then waited, tried again. no start. Jumped out and jumped the solenoid and it started up for the last 2 miles home. In the driveway I waited and tried it again - no start. Graphic screen goes black. jumped and started up. I finally got it to start up again after jumping the solenoid, and I finally got an error code on the display that stated DIRECTION INDICATOR FRONT. No other errors have popped up, and if I stay on the starter a bit longer it will start up. Just feels like there is something wrong. Also when out to do jump at the solenoid something is buzzing in the engine compartment. Can get a video if that helps. Thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 What does the shop say? Quote Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parrformance Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Please check ALL connections at the batteries. Specifically the in-line fuses near the batteries. These provide direct 12 volts to the ECM and the TCM. The display going out makes me think insufficient voltage/ground for the ECM. Do you get a trans service red light after the no start? Quote 2006 Volvo VNL 780, " Arvey" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2010 Forest River Coachman Freedom Express 280RLS Jackalopee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertMiner Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 What work was done at the shop? (Assuming none of these issues existed prior to going to the shop!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castlewood57 Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 2 hours ago, HERO Maker said: What does the shop say? No replies yet from them, this isn't a volvo shop, so unless its something I can pinpoint, they need to research like me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castlewood57 Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 1 hour ago, DesertMiner said: What work was done at the shop? (Assuming none of these issues existed prior to going to the shop!) work completed: new starter installed new cab shocks installed a couple air leaks fixed on firewall. and tractor air protection valve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castlewood57 Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 The truck did originally go in because it wasn't starting at all unless i jumped the solenoid. It will start now, but now dash blanks out, and dash seems to do a total restart now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castlewood57 Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 2 hours ago, Parrformance said: Please check ALL connections at the batteries. Specifically the in-line fuses near the batteries. These provide direct 12 volts to the ECM and the TCM. The display going out makes me think insufficient voltage/ground for the ECM. Do you get a trans service red light after the no start? will check again, but everything looks very good. No trans service light, and no errors, I actually ran through the list for any errors and none showing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim & Wilma Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 5 minutes ago, castlewood57 said: The truck did originally go in because it wasn't starting at all unless i jumped the solenoid. It will start now, but now dash blanks out, and dash seems to do a total restart now. If the dash blanks out while starting, certainly suggests poor wire connection somewhere. My guess would be at the batteries. Quote Jim & Wilma 2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO 2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby" 2017 Smart Class of 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Check ground connections, too. Quote I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Like suggested above, sounds like a bad connection. Don't just check for tight, disconnect and clean. You didn't give us much to go on, but if you have an Eaton tranny, it could be the power supply harness going to the tranny. I had that same thing happen. Fortunately, I had a spare as the mechanic said to have it ready...... The buzzing is likely your fuel pump, especially if you have an ISX Cummins. Quote KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castlewood57 Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Just now, rickeieio said: Like suggested above, sounds like a bad connection. Don't just check for tight, disconnect and clean. You didn't give us much to go on, but if you have an Eaton tranny, it could be the power supply harness going to the tranny. I had that same thing happen. Fortunately, I had a spare as the mechanic said to have it ready...... The buzzing is likely your fuel pump, especially if you have an ISX Cummins. I'd need to double check, but believe it is an Eaton tranny. Yes have an ISX Cummins. WIll check connections, and CLEAN them. Hmm. where is that power supply for tranny located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Disconnect the batteries, then pull the cables off the starter and check them for any corrosion. I suspect you have a bad cable, either ground or positive cable between the batteries and the starter.... My money is on the positive cable at the starter.... Been there Done that... Quote Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 (edited) Ah, so you're one of "us" who has non-Volvo powertrains........... Your door sticker will list the tranny, but odds are, with a Cummins, you've got an Eaton. The power supply has it's own battery connection, and runs up the frame to near the top of the tranny. I remember I changed mine by reaching in through the battery compartment, but frankly, that was 10 years ago. It was around $100 back then. Since your's is a two pedal, it may use a different power supply harness. When you have the no-start, do all the lights/indicators for the tranny function normally? If not, we may be on to sump'n. To add to Jim's suggestion, try to move the cables at the battery. If it's like ours, there's a stack of wires on those lugs, and constant heat cycles doesn't help keep them snug. Even if they're tight, do as he said. Edited November 5, 2020 by rickeieio Quote KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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