Exile Posted February 8, 2020 Report Share Posted February 8, 2020 I need to put in a couple hundred feet of driveway back to my hdt garage, and i’m not wild about putting in concrete. I have a lot of it already in other places The soil is pretty soft, it rained 2” and the contractor got his tractor stuck in my yard. Had to get a wrecker to pull it out. I’ve thought about those concrete blocks that let grass grow through, or pavers, with just a concrete apron in front of the building i can’t build it up too high, because the drainage will need to go down the driveway any recommendations/suggestions/opinions? Quote 98 379 with 12.7 DD LG Dodge w/5.9 CTD Chrome habit I’m trying to kick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Kildow Posted February 8, 2020 Report Share Posted February 8, 2020 I removed the top 6" of top soil here. Then put down 33C or limestone base. Wet it down, and it set up about like concrete. I have so far put down 275 ton's. It was like your talking about, but now its solid. Backed the kenworth back to the camper last week. And did not leave any tracks. Before the Kubota would about get stuck. I did have to wait until last summer to put the rock down. Also you can out down a fabric then rock over that. But need to remove the top layer first. We have put new hwy's trough swamps. Using that fabric, then rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randyretired Posted February 9, 2020 Report Share Posted February 9, 2020 Different areas used different rock but here in Western Colorado we use road base. Depending on what is required it comes in rock size of 3/4" up to 3". If it is a soft area I put down 6" or more of 3" then 11/2" and if desired top it with 3/4". If needed you may need to scrape out some of the existing material. Our road base sets up like concrete and it is approved for structural fill. The engineer we have hired for our new house called for 500 yards under it. That's going to hurt! Quote Randy 2001 Volvo VNL 42 Cummins ISX Autoshift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted February 9, 2020 Report Share Posted February 9, 2020 Pete's got the answer. Geotextile under the base layer will make a huge difference in the ability of the road to carry weight, especially when wet. Saves a small fortune on fill material, too. Quote I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
house Posted February 11, 2020 Report Share Posted February 11, 2020 I use these nds geogrids in my horse stalls and they are plastic grids that you put down and fill will gravel or dirt and they are specifically made for parking trucks on, they work pretty well. there are plenty of brands but nds Is the brand I could get locally shipping was the killer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runaway parents Posted February 11, 2020 Report Share Posted February 11, 2020 Before you do any thing have a compaction test and soil analyzed if you don't soil might have bio matter in it at first your drive way will perfect as the bio mater decays it will leave pot holes and low spots in your drive way. Whether you use geo textile or not. it is just like building a house your road (or house )is only as good as its foundation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maveric Posted February 11, 2020 Report Share Posted February 11, 2020 We use crushed limestone in our area. Put it down when its wet, pack it in, and no worries. It is angular, so it locks together. (unlike river rock) Quote Chris & Tonya '99 Freightliner FLD120, '01 Wabash Toyhauler (32' garage, 20' LQ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogo88 Posted February 11, 2020 Report Share Posted February 11, 2020 Just to add to the filter fabric solution... A major benefit is that the fabric allows the water to percolate through, while the "fines" do not. Ten wheelers who can tailgate spread in reverse, can go right across some very soft areas onver filter fabric. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpsinc Posted February 11, 2020 Report Share Posted February 11, 2020 In my area, there are a few companies that grind asphalt and use it for road base. I dont have any experience with it, but it sounds like a cost effective option. Quote Marcel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 Re-cycled concrete works well to, so long as they don't leave steel in it. Quote KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exile Posted February 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 10 minutes ago, rickeieio said: Re-cycled concrete works well to, so long as they don't leave steel in it. Lol, getting rid of a 18x24 slab right now, maybe i just need to jackhammer it into tiny pieces. Should only take two weeks. Quote 98 379 with 12.7 DD LG Dodge w/5.9 CTD Chrome habit I’m trying to kick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exile Posted February 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 Thank you all, i can see i have some options I didn’t even consider. Quote 98 379 with 12.7 DD LG Dodge w/5.9 CTD Chrome habit I’m trying to kick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Kildow Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 Something else that might work. If you know anyone that works around a gravel pit,Coal,grain. I have used old belts off conveyors. These belts are thick like a mudflap. And some I have gotten. Can be 3 ft wide,and I put these down after removing the topsoil. Then rock on top of those. Never has settled and its been 15 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cotreker Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 A few years ago I built a 250 foot road over a very wet section of mountain property. I ordered Pit Run which is a combination of very large rocks and smaller rocks. At first I thought the large rocks were crazy to large but later I found they made the foundation of the road. If you just build the road with small road base the material will get pushed into the soil and you will be putting down rocks forever. Top off your road with lime or road base either crushed concrete or asphalt. Good luck, the dump truck also did get stuck and bad; it got pulled out with a 1-ton pickup. Quote Volvo 670 / 2006 10-Speed ATV's & Sleds 2017 Host Mammoth Slide-In Camper on Deck Jackalopee Build article published here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill w/bus Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 Reclaim asphalt as a top coat. Might want to spring for an engineering soil study. Local road construction companies usually have one available. They know the local souls and the requirements fora good road. Bill Quote Bill & Lynn Baxter MCI102A3 Conversion, Detroit Diesel S50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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