Will not cool down

[Minnimo]

I have a 30' Forest River Flagstaff Super Lite travel trailer. It is a 30 AMP trailer with a 15000BTU A/C on the roof in the center of the trailer. If I pull into an RV park in the afternoon and set up where there is no shade the A/C will not cool the trailer down untill it gets in the shade or till the sun goes down. Also if the sun is shining on the walls the inside wall will become quite warm. I thought that the walls had Styrofoam sandwiched between the outside and inside walls, so there should be no transfer of heat through the wall. Anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do the remedy this situation other than the expence of converting to a 50 AMP and adding an A/C? 

[mptjelgin]

In general, travel trailers are poorly insulated (especially compared to stick-built homes) with the "super lite" types being even more so because of the need to keep the weights down. Add in slides, which may have even less insulation in the walls and ceiling and you've got a difficult task for a single A/C to take care of. 

I am not surprised that setting up in full sun in the afternoon is leaving you with a situation of not being cooled off until the sun goes down. If you had a chance to get the unit cooled down in the morning you might be able to keep it cool(er) through the afternoon by keeping shades closed, awnings out, etc. But a 30' super lite trailer in full sun is going to be a challenge in warm conditions for a single A/C unit. 

You should make sure that your filter is clean and that the outlet air from the A/C is in the correct range (20 degree +/- cooler than inlet air (NOT outside air temp)). If the A/C is running properly you've got few choices other than getting into cooler weather, finding shady spots, or adding a second A/C. 

[Ranger Smith]

Go t a cooler climate . . . Park in the shade . . . Add a second AC unit . . . Get a better camper.  It is what it is and I don't think anything can be done.

[Pat & Pete]

Insure that the AC unit is clean ( fins and filters ) and functioning properly .

I suppose you could simply park in the shade .

[SWharton]

Put some reflectex(?) on the sunny side windows when traveling and in camp. If the trailer is warmer than the outside air run your Fantastic fans to get out the super hot air. Still, a lightweight trailer has minimal insulation. Go North................

[mptjelgin]

I've also used foam pillows in the overhead vent openings and bathroom skylight (when I had one). Those transparent/translucent openings can allow a lot of heat in. 

[dirtyboots]

Go North isn't working right now!  I'm in NE Washington and it's hot and going to get hotter...thought I might head to Bonners Ferry Idaho...it's north, but only going to be about 5 degrees cooler than here.  Woe is me

My trailer isn't a light weight one, but similar in size.  I must have better insulation since I am able to cool it down fairly well after traveling for a few hours.  Sitting inside now, a/c has been on for 20 minutes and I'm comfortable.  But I have thought about getting a portable electric air conditioner/heater, saw them on-line.  Anyone use something like that?

[Pat & Pete]

Run a decent fan on the floor . Moving air always feels cooler . 

[jc2]

Does ur current ac shuts off entirely as it cycles or does it run constantly with the compressor shutting off/on as needed.  If the unit shuts completely and then comes on again as needed, then turn the fan on in either low or high mode(this one for high humidy), set the stat at 72 and see if this helps it cool your unit better.  We do this with the (2) units in our Mh when the outside air is in the 90's and the constant air movement helps.

[GlennWest]

Put a mini split on the tongue. Lots of YouTube videos on install

 

[Ray,IN]

A fairly common cause of poor air conditioner performance is improperly sealed metal divider between chilled air plenum and return air inlet. Remove the ceiling unit, and inspect the metal divider for a tight seal. If you see-or feel any place where the divider is not sealed to the framework, use metal duct tape to seal every gap.

[Kirk W]

First, let me welcome you to the Escapee forums! We will do our best to help you so join in any time and for any question.

The first thing to do is determine if the air conditioner you have is performing properly. In order to do that you need a dial thermometer. of the type shown in this Amazon link. With the air conditioner operating, you first place the thermometer into the intake air path until the reading settles out and note it. Next, put the thermometer into the air conditioner discharge and see what it reads there. A typical reading for a properly operating unit is between 18° to 22° lower from the discharge than air temp entering the cooling coils. If it is in that range it is working properly. If it is significantly greater than 22° you may have a blower problem and not enough air is passing through the coils. 

I suspect that you will find the temperature differential to be in the normal range and if so that means that you do not have enough cooling capacity for the conditions. Since you mention that the walls are quite warm when the sun shines on them, it would seem that your trailer is poorly insulated. You can improve things by finding any air leaks into the RV and use expanding foam or similar products to seal those up. You can also help by putting insulating materials over the windows on the sunny side and on closet and cabinet walls. 

You haven't said what the outside temperatures are where you are located, but if the typical daytime temperatures are exceeding 100° most RVs have difficulty in keeping the interior cool when in direct sun. While adding an air conditioner might help, it would also be expensive and time-consuming. It would probably be more effective to look for some way to put the RV in a shady location. 

[Smitty77_7]

I saw an unusual approach that an R-Pod owner did. He installed snaps around the edges of his sides. Then had shading material cut and hemmed and snaps installed to fit the side of the R-Pod (No door side...). When I asked what this was all about, he said:

"The side insulation is not the best in these units. So in higher temperature zones, I make sure I park with the non door (Drivers/Left) side towards the sun. And then snap on the shading material. Still get air flow thru the window." 

He explained he'd downsized from a Flair, which had the snap on windshield and driver's window shade covers. So he knew this helped a lot. Cost him just under $200 to do this... (But keep in mind, the R-Pod is a smaller trailer:)!).

Neat idea, IMO:)!

Welcome, and best of luck to you,

Smitty

[Aggie79-82a]

If I could solve the general cooling issue, I'd be driving a Prevost.  That said, without shade or good external shades like Magna Shade or an equivalent product, I'm finding it difficult to keep the front living section (60%) of the RV as cool as I like it.  The back 40% (bedroom/bath) is easier to keep cold.  I have two AC units with the back unit supporting a much smaller area with less windows.   Definitely following this thread. 

[Ray,IN]

Another factor is involved here too. If you open windows during the cooler hours before the interior gets too hot for you, everything inside absorbs heat and humidity to outside air levels. Now you decide you'll turn on the A/C to cool off, this means the A/C unit must now remove the humidity, while reducing the temperature of the air, from everything stuffed inside your RV.

 

[Smitty77_7]

For Class A's, with some crossing over to other RV's too:)! 

-Cover front windscreen froth outside, with a darker (Darker, not lighter.) cover.

-Close curtains or pull shades on the front windshield and side windows.

-Pull shades on all windows facing the sun.

-Put cushions into roof vents.

-Get curtain rods, and put insulation into the solar dome of say the bathroom/shower area. 

-Place a small fan on high, pointing from the rear of the coach to the front of the coach. (We place ours on the floor, just before the hallway door to the front of the coach.)

-Keep AC's properly cleaned yearly, coils specifically, and inspect for any other problems. 

-Keep return filters clean.

-Use window awnings, and or coach awnings, to follow the sun and provide protective shading.

-Avoid oven and stove top usage in peak heat. (If we know we have a hot day, for example 109 is the forecast to where we'll be tomorrow in Plymouth, WA. We prepare meals in advance. Either to eat cool, or to pop into a microwave and reheat quickly.

-For RV's with single pane windows, add the reflective insulation to the all windows. And, if keeping the coach for a few years, have sand on external covers made for windows, or at least the bigger ones. Same material used for the front windscreens, work well for this. 

-If possible, request sites that provide afternoon shading, or AM if you can't get PM:)!

Those are most of the tips I've read here, and other boards, over the years... I'm sure their is more, but that's my short list for now:)!

Stay cool, travel safe, best to all,

Smitty

[nwtraveler]

On 7/31/2017 at 8:56 PM, Ray,IN said:

A fairly common cause of poor air conditioner performance is improperly sealed metal divider between chilled air plenum and return air inlet. Remove the ceiling unit, and inspect the metal divider for a tight seal. If you see-or feel any place where the divider is not sealed to the framework, use metal duct tape to seal every gap.

As Ray said, this is a fairly common problem with ACs. I just wanted to add that the divider

is not always metal. Mine was some kind of fiber board with foam insulation glued to the edges.

It was supposed to stay wedged in place but the installer managed to tear the foam off of one

edge so it never stayed in place.  Easy fix with the metalic duct tape.

[Pat & Pete]

I wonder if Minnimo ( OP ) is even reading all this .

[mptjelgin]

59 minutes ago, Pat & Pete said:

I wonder if Minnimo ( OP ) is even reading all this .

Joined Monday at 11:27 a.m., posted their question at 11:40, "Last Visited" at 11:40 a.m.