Smitty77_7

My CPA did respond to my email (He's out of the loop to to family matters.). He said he'd had more experience with Domicile for the Boating vs RV'ing Community. He said he'd usually asked his clients if they wanted to provide him dates and locations for the year, to enter into where they were for calculations of proration of AGI Sales Tax by location. (For example San Diego, has higher sales tax then Box Elder. Oregon has no Sales Tax, etc.) He said maybe 4 clients over the years had actually did this. And he did not ask me, because I'd been using the default (I'll say KISS:)!) calculation of our then San Diego Zip Code, when we first asked him to help us as we shifted from our working careers - into Full Time RV'ing. So, I'm going to continue to use the Box Elder ZIP for the full year. A few more bits of info sharing: > One size does not fit all with shoes. And taxes can be more complex for some then others. We had our careers incomes, rental incomes, investments in the market and, we had some independent consultant gigs on top of our 9-5 jobs too. > I did do our taxes for most of our married life. One condition from my Dear Wife, as we transitioned into retirement, was that in case something were to happen to me. She wanted a Financial Advisor and a CPA to assist her with our investments and taxes. It was a negotiated condition of agreement between us ( ), before she would agree that it was OK for us to 'retire'. (And now that we've a relationship with this younger CPA, she feels comfortable that if something keeps me from handling our taxes - she has a contact to fall back on.) > While I've used the AGI Income amount for the majority of our taxes filed over the years. We did have two years where the actual purchase, in San Diego Sales Tax Rate, of two coaches over the years. And one of those years, we also bought a new car too.) So when the Sales Tax of actuals was higher then the AGI Income amounts calculation - I would obviously go with the one that yielded us the highest deduction. > On Dutch's Article on AI not yet ready for prime time. For the early years of our married life, I used pencil/pen and paper and manually filled out out year Fed/State taxes. I did shift to Turbo Tax (Costco DVD when on Sale) for many years before retiring. A few things I've noted about Intuits Turbo Tax over the years are: The make changes to format and inputting of data, seemingly yearly; They've seemed to spend more in improvements on marketing while using Turbo Tax, to buy other levels and services, then they have on improvements of ease of use functionality and navigation. Sure, the buzzword of this decades seems to be when Skynet First Became Self Aware, AI!!! But Turbo Tax was no different then many other software providers, having online prompts and responses available for many years. And as with other software packages too, AI's usage have varying degrees of successes and failures. I give Intuit a solid B grade, for their attempt to expand AI's usage within their Online prompts and responses. I however, still give Intuits Turbo Tax Online Help, a C- grade at best. (I'm sure it will improve over the years ahead, as AI certainly is no longer 'dependent' upon the software developers and coders... It is a new frontier.) For now. ANY AI PROMPTS OR RESPONSE, my wife and I receive from any application - is to be questioned, and frankly suspect - until validated for accuracy... ================== Long winded as usual. And my Dear Wife suggested I let Turbo Taxes Prompting Software, to sidetrack and confuse me... (I told her probably because in today's world, I need more RAM between the ears, and some of what I have has signs of demise:)!) ================== Still waiting for some 1099's from New York Life, actual will replace the preliminary by 3/15, was the last update I received. And then we can wrap up this years taxes! My thanks and best to all, Smitty (I do not post much now, but drop in monthly... And by then, most of the requests for input or help have already been responded to...)

Thanks again Kirk... I was rather generalizing in my last post. Box Elder, has an additional 2% Sales Tax. We did not have any big ticket items this year. So the Sales Tax Deduction calculation is based upon a combo of incomes, and does some magic to spit out the Sales Taxes. One at 4.2% and the other 2%. So we either need to go and input our full 2023 travel of Dates and Locations thru the various states. Or, default based upon Domicile of Box Elder, South Dakota... Our CPA has done the Domicile address for the last 4 years (Maybe more, as the other older folders are in storage...). It was the Turbo Tax Prompting, that and wording of Lived In, that prompted my noodle rubbing:)! Smitty

Thanks Kirk - Yes, Schedule A really does help us above the Standard Deduction:)! Sales Taxes paid, is one portion of this. Just got an email from an acquaintance out of Florida. He said he asked the person doing their taxes about this - said he uses the state of Domicile for this calculation. As Living vs a Transient Visit, are different. I'll wait for some more thoughts/input, and then probably call the IRS for their input too. (12 years, and this has never come up, so I'm probably making more out of it then I should be...). Smitty

(Was not sure where to post this, so posted it here:)! As our taxes have become less complex, I'm taking them over from our CPA. As I'm trying to remember how to swim, I mean use Turbo Tax again, I admit I've got myself confused. - Our South Dakota Domicile, out of Americas Mailbox in Box Elder, is our addressed used for all business and dealings, including out Income Taxes - I went to enter the default Sales Tax Deduction based upon income. And it specifically says 'States Lived In'. And the amount of time, and the areas Sales Tax Percentage - Looking at how our CPA has done this. He does the full year from South Dakota (Pennington County, 4.2% Sales Tax) - We usually travel 8-9 months a year, and then spend 3-4 months in a second home in California - In 2023 we spent time in 10 different states, and in some states, multiple counties with differing sales taxes ==================== My CPA is currently not available to close the loop back on this. But on doing some research, I've found that many just file their Federal and State Taxes, based upon where they are Domiciled. (In our case, no State Taxes for South Dakota.) And, they use their Domicile Address location as their full years of Sales Tax Calculation for the Deduction The input was that their Domicile best represented them. Vs all of the multiple states they've 'traveled/visited' within. ==================== I came to the Escapees Forum for input/thoughts on this, as frankly I received more help/input when prepping for retirement 12 or so years ago, from the members of the Escapees Forum - then from any other source. Obviously, I value the Forum Members input. TIA for any thoughts, and best to all, Smitty

One usage of the 30A at Shore Power Soft Start, is for those with 50A coaches but only 15A or 20A power supply. A 20A supply, with a Soft Start would have a much higher chance of being able to leave 1 (one) AC unit on while in storage, in hotter climates... (Lots of variables. But we have lots of overhead with our 50A coach with X's 2 3K Inverter/Chargers. While in storage, via 20A feed. We turn off the coach CB's for everything in the coach except the Washing Machine 20A CB (Where we have an iSocket also plugged in, to feed us info on Power and Temperature Status, as that outlet is on the Non Inverter side of the panel.), and the 20A feed to the Refrigerator (As, we keep the refrigerator stocked with non sensitive cold and freeze items.). We also turn off one of the Inverters, the one that does not power the Refrigerator, to reduce overhead amp usage. Once the batteries reach bulk mode, and with the refrigerator compressor not running, we're at about a 6-8A draw. So a SoftStart at the 20A supply to the coach 'might' help if we wanted to leave one Roof AC set to come on at say 90 degrees (Yuma inside storage.). And that same Soft Start, could also help the management/balance between the Refrigerator Compressor's surge at start, as well as the One AC Unit Surge at start. (Maybe:)!) Not planning to do this. But talked with a gent that was considering it at for the same reasons... Hope to bump into him again, to see if he did, and how it's working out! Best to all, Smitty

We recently bought a place in the Yuma Foothills. And the three to four block area around us, seems to struggle with delivering proper voltage during peak usage time. Our 45' Coach is a Heavy Electric User, and we could not run all three roof system AC's off of the lower voltage. Our previous coach we used a Hughes Autoformer, putting it inline permanently installed in the coach. So we bit the bullet and ordered a new Hughes for the new to us coach. It bumped us back up to useable power voltages, and we could run all three roof airs (And of course, other electrical loads, such as AquaHot Dual Elements, at the sometime.). One thing I like about the newer Hughes, is the module that can be replaced, IF a spike takes it out... (We'd 'toasted' a Hughes in the Yukon in either 2013 or 2014... And so we like this modular approach to damage control!). We will be mounting out Hughes inline permanently inside the coach later this year. (And our new to us neighbors, said that it had been a gradual decline in power availability - as more and more of this areas of the Foothill's were converted to manufactured homes and or stick & brick's homes... Many have made request with APS to beef up capacity...). Best to all, Smitty

Sometimes multiple tools in the toolbox can be of aid:)! I too endorse the MIMO Rooftop Antenna approach. We currently have a MobileMark 2X2 MIMO, as that was what we needed for our now aging Netgear MR1100 Nighthawk. Newer devices are coming out with 4X4 MIMO capability, and a key thing (Whether Phone on HotSpot or stand alone MiFi - for an external MIMO antenna to be useful, the device being fed has to have the 'input ports'. Most devices are still 2X2 (two ports) capable, but a few are reaching market with 4X4.) The MobileMark is Omni, and thus will not do as good of job of DB signal bumping as Dutch's Yagi (Cool setup up!) does. But in most locations, it does a fine job of enhancing the signal, without also bumping up the SNR's:)!). For finger areas, we do have a Wilson Over The Road Truckers antenna, mounted to our crackup rooftop old TV antennas mast (Similar to Dutches.). I left room on my brackets, to add a Yagi - just have not got around to taking the time to do so, as 95%+ of the time - the MobileMark feeding out NetGear Nighthawk does us well. In those 5% of the times that we can't get a useable ATT signal via MobileMark to Nighthawk, we then try my Verizon Samsung S21 via HotSpot. And if that does not work, we crank up the TV Antenna to get the OTR Wilson Antenna up a bit higher (With the mast and 18" pole for the Wilson, it's up about 3 1/2' above the roof line.). This feeds a simple Wilson Sleek cradle booster. Not a high boost, but also not a high price:)! And I'll the try the Verizon Samsung S21 in the cradle, and see if it gets a useable signal. And if not, then unplug the Rooftop 2X2 MIMO feed to the ATT Netgear MR1100 Nighthawk, and place it in the Sleek. (This allows the Nighthawk's internal 4X4 MIMO Antennas to receive the OTR Antennas signal.). If none of those work, well we try the old WiFiRange GOac and Load Balance any available Downloads from both devices, and if park WiFi is available, toss that into the mix if needed too. And if none of those work, well that's why we have an abundance of recorded movies and shows... And sometimes 'offline' from the Internet in general - is refreshing:)! ====== I share all of that, as sometimes you need multiple paths and methods to reach Useable Internet Data... One suggestion, is to not spend large coin for for single acquiring gear at this time. Used, or middle of the road costs that you don't mind being replaceable soon, sure. As 5G rolls out, more and more gear is also slowly coming to market to work well with 5G landscape, and backward compatible to 4G LTE too. (And no question that especially in rural areas, 4G LTE will be the key path to Internet Data for the near future... (Sure, Starlink is coming along too:)!). Over the next few years, changes are going to occur... Best of luck, Smitty

Hah:)! Smitty

You know Kirk, makes me wonder if the Trans Command on our Bounder, had gone out:)! It did see to have a bit more positive feeling shift then a few other coaches I had test drove with the F53 - so assumed it was working. Either way, I was on a list for a Factory Rebuilt Gear Vender, as they're in San Diego County where we were. Nice people, I want into get some pricing info - and the gent talking with me said they usually get a few back in on exchange under warranty, and then rebuild the and sell them at a lower price, but still a pretty good warranty. About 8 month or so after we sold the coach, they called:)! Best to you, and all - Smitty

I also liked he Ford V10. IMO, in the earlier years (Like Kirk, we had a 99 F53 Chassis, in a 98 Model Year T-28 Bounder:)!) - the weak link was the transmissions Torque Converter. IF, or when, it went out - a good quality Heavy Duty Torque Converter, made this a one time repair. We had the banks on out 275HP too, and it did fine. If we had kept the Bounder, I would have added the Gear Venders OverDrive unit. Seemed like on our set up, also towing an AWD CRV, it loved to hunt between 3rd and 4th gear quite often while mountain climbing. Having the GV gear in the middle, I felt would have eliminated the hunting:)! But since you are looking at the newer F53's, they should have the 5spd going GM/Ford transmission, and Tow Haul (Think that is what it's called.) mode too... Good luck on your hunt - Smitty

Yes to I-86 to I-84 to US20 - as mentioned by many, and if weather looks good! Suspect weather will be your deciding factor out the various route options suggested:)! We ran that direction, but went into Bend vs Medford. In Caldwell, ID - The Ambassador RV Resort is well fun, and you might be able to remain all hooked up... (Our 45' with CRV in tow, still had some room on our site:)!). Travel safe, Smitty

Also consider any on your short lists features: -Inside storage -Basement/outside storage -Grey/Black/Water/Fuel tank sizes -House battery capacity, if you plan to boon dock -CCC (The amount of passenger and cargo weight capacity) -Do you plan to tow a Toad? (Understand the weight capacity that the units you are considering can handle.) -Quality of components and construction comparison between the ones you are considering. (Price does not always indicate higher quality:)!) -Exterior color. (Darker colors, require much more effort to maintain a cool level, when traveling in high temperature areas.) -Insulation values. (For Four Season capability, if that is important to you.) And then go visit owner groups of the short list of units you are considering, and browse around some. (IRV2, has some very active owner groups.) Best of luck to you, and have fun, Smitty

No right or wrong, just choices!!! Toyo, Continental, Bridgestone, Michelin, BF Goodrich, Hankook are some of the brands that are popular for RV duty. Hey things to consider are size and load ratings, appropriate for your RV. Sizes can vary slightly on the same wheel, to give you an option on different makes and models of tires. (For example, 12R X 22.5 were our OEM tires on our previous coach. And some of the tires I was considering at replacement time, were not available in that size. But were available in 295/80 X 22.5.) Most reputable tire companies, will be able to help guide you on alternate tire sizes that will be fine for your RV. Load Range ratings is critical for safety. Going to a 'Higher Rated' Load Range is safe to consider, though usually expensive to do so:)! Never go with a 'Lower Rated' Load Range. FMCA has the tire program for sort of like Fleet Discount Prices. Saved many people lots of money. Worth checking, as the savings alone can pay for a years membership if needed. We've personally had great experiences with Michelin tires. And during an industry tire shortage several years ago, we ended up with X's 2 BF Goodrich ST230's, which were less expensive then the Michelin's, and performed very well for us also (Built by Michelin:)!). And we adopted Barbara's recommended approach tire replacement. Not so much for a financial reason, but because we do the X's 2 and then X's 4 at near the 3 1/2 year mark (+ or - a few months, based upon when we will be in Oregon. Yep, great sales tax savings!). We do this cycle, primarily as we always have Steers at under 3 1/2 years of age. (As long as your Steer and Tag tires are the same size, they can move the Steer's tires back to the Tag position. To allow fresh/younger rubber to be always on the Steer's. And we always work with he tire shop in advance, to ensure Tire Age (Born on Date via the tires DOT stamp.), are 6 months or less. On pricing. Even though we have FMCA program available to us, we always call the tire shop in advance, and ask them to work the numbers. We want to pay the lowest amount possible, and a few times the tire shop could make more profit by not going thru FMCA. And that is OK with us:)! Best to all, Smitty

Ray's suggestion of the Travel Supreme, would be the best DP Class A option to consider. I researched these carefully for a friend about 5 years ago - and lots of positive comments from owners. It's not the classic walk thru the back of the RV into a garage, the garage part (That I've seen Mini Coopers drive out of:)!), is below the bedroom area. And that, if you are a tall person, is a negative, as less headroom in the bedroom area:)! Good luck on your hunt, Smitty

We had zero coverage, not even a sniff, at Tek - and unless you jump the green busses, no Toads to drive back out towards the entrance. We also stayed at Savage, and would drive about 5 miles towards the entrance daily, to check get a signal to check emails and texts. That was 2014, so may have changed. Good general info in the link, thanks for posting! Smitty

Hey RV - I drop in and read, but do not post as often as I used too... Specially on Tesla. I can recall the early days, as you shared your 'zest' for Tesla. And I recall that the fund you put into Tesla, were 'above and separated' from your primary retirement investments (USAA, if memory serves me(?)). So, why the post? Well Sir - You were long, and double, tripped (And probably more!) into Tesla. Me? I was in, and out, of Tesla many times over the years. My strategy, was to always have a declined 'Exit Strategy' on any stock (Tesla was one!) established before purchase... I too have our primary retirement funds off to the side, retaining a bucket of funds that allowed me to stay semi involved in hands on investing. Tesla? Well, I took a look back. I've been in/out of Tesla with Short Term holds 6 times over the years. And the after tax gains have funded many modifications to our coach, as well as supported my 'Got Tube's' HiFi habit. So for me Tesla has done what I wanted it to do... But no question, that if I had hung on, and added when prudent, to my (Well, our!) original investment(s) in Tesla - we would have been substantially better rewarded today... And of course, looking back makes things easy to see from an investment perspective!!! We've done fine with In/Put of Apple, Qualcomm, Boeing, CAT, AWK, DNP, etc., etc. over the last 4-5 years... So no real regrets. As I said to you before, and in this post, these are not our retirement supporting funds - their our 'Go Have Fun', or not, funds!!!! MOSTLY! Wanted to acknowledge how you stood behind Musk, Tesla, over this time... And how well the 'longer term' holds have worked for you. NOT so much for you, but for others that read this forum on investing in the future. For sure, no 'sure' things in life... And diversification, paying yourself first, and preserving primary savings/funds/investments for retirement are prudent. But, at the sometime. Using what interests a person most, and following their 'heart/gut' with a portion of their investments - can pay nice dividends... In your case with Tesla, it was relatively longer holds. In my case, it was In/Out multiple times... On this stock, the 'Longer View' would have paid off with higher overall returns financially. For us? Well, we get some ROI form our In/Out of Tesla over the years, with the 'Dividends' of taking those after taxes funds and putting to 'work' for us with yearly modifications of our coaches... -------- Hope all is well for you, and all. And yes, I keep waiting for Spacex to become available to invest in for 'Mere mortals!':)! Stay safe, and keep having funds. And always enjoy your various posts, Smitty

Buy my new phones via Swapa, and never ever ask Verizon for help if I can avoid it. And then I do it only in a Verizon store, and with clear communication that I do not want anything on my plan changed. (Had to go in for a new SIM, two phone changes ago.). The term Unlimited goods used on many plans on many carriers... Specifically on my Verizon account, I have what I call 'Grandfathered Unlimited Data'. (Started it on 3G a I recall, on a Motorola Droid.) In those days, used PDA Net, and all was well. When PDA net was closed off. I waited until after one of the courts intervention on Verizon, and when I saw I could activate Hotspot again, without losing the 'Grandfathered Unlimited Data', I added it. Due to equipment, and the locations we've been traveling the last few years - probably 85%+ of our streaming and internet has been via ATT (Mobly with SIM in Nighthawk MR1100, with MIMO roof top Mobile Mark antenna feeds.). However the last three weeks, my Samsung S8 on Hotspot, has been our primary connection device. 164+G usage so far. With no signs of De-prioritization, which is appropriate - as my plan is not subject to such... Unlimited, does not always truly mean 'unlimited'. But sometimes 'unlimited' is unlimited:)! We'll see what happens with 5G rolling out:)! Best to all, Smitty

Sure, I'll drink Kool-Aid served from Musk:)! Does he hit it out of the park each time, no. But he's a good track record of accomplishing what many consider unachievable. And wasn't it nice to see we have individuals still with the courage to at least try... I'm a Musk fan, and when he stumbles - I applaud when he gets up and tries again. $.02:)! Smitty

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wifiranger-Elite-AC-Pack/372859822820?hash=item56d02d62e4:g:eesAAOSwomJd4ons Good price for a well regarded product. Used so do due diligence:)! https://wifiranger.com/images/guides/WiFiRanger_ProductComparison.pdf The above is a good comparison, and shows the distance and cost of that ebay unit. I seem to recall that when they would sell the GOac router by itself, it was in the $200+ range, so getting the Booster Antenna for a bit more in this GOac Used Package, is nice... Best of luck to you, Smitty

We had a Norcold 1200. I upgraded it with Amish Cooling unit, because I did not trust the Mickey Mouse series of recalls... We did add, along with the Amish Cooling unit, the rear Halon SS30 Extinguisher and a dedicated rear of the fridge smoke detector. And, we bought the ARP board, which I think is a good addition for any three way fridge, but did not install it. We started to see failures of the 1200 in other areas. And since we had upgraded our battery bank, added solar and Inverter - decided to switch to residential Samsung RF18 instead of putting more funds into the 1200. IMO, the Norcold 1200, even with Amish Cooling Unit - is still a less then ideal 3 Way Unit. For those with non Norcold 1200's? Well, I do see lots more flexibility and 'non grid' capability of these units. If you have a fridge that size wise meets your needs - I recommend you consider your RV'ing style, and not be shy of retaining a 3 way fridge!! All IMO, factor safety first - any reservations, spend funds on a mod to residential. Our decision was two fold. We had spent as much on fixing our 1200, as it would have for a Residential. And when indications came in that we needed to again spend these funds, well... As well as, we were spending up to 7-9 months a year traveling. So a larger fridge and freezer, was a no brainer for us... (Though, we do miss our two junk drawers we lost in the swap out to the Samsung RF18)... No right or wrong on this, just choices... Consider what you feel is important to you. BUT, if any doubt about the SAFETY of your fridge - well, get rid of it... Best to all, Smitty

I bought a 1968 VW Fun Camper (Not Westphalia, no pop-up roof.), in 1979 or so. It had a ice box, small sink, fold bed. We really enjoyed that it... Remember I picked it up in San Luis Opispo from a good friend (And yes, good enough that we both were aware and agreed this was a 'as is' deal - no way we'd let a vehicle impact a friendship:)!). Drove it down to San Diego during a day of Santa Ana winds. I quickly learned to slow down in those winds, and would use the turn indicator as the wind pushed me out of the slow lane into the fast lane of Hwy 101 - not much I could do about it!!! (I did change shocks, wheels, tires and repaired a few of the steering bushings and such - and that did help 'handling' (Handling, it was a 68 VW Van! Handling meant it sort of went in the direction wanted it to go, and slowly up hills too!!!). Dual batteries were also added. Wish I had hung onto it, as we missed it as our combo 2nd vehicle and mini truck. We'd go buy X-mass Trees in this thing, and deliver and set up one at my Mom's and MIL's house every year... My daughter still talks about being trapped in the back with two trees!! Best to all, Smitty

We also added 'Stated/Agreed to Replacement Cost' (Or some such wording.), on the unit itself in case of a catastrophic lost. We've added quite a bit to this unit, and no that to get anywhere near the same amount of replacement RV - NADA pricing would not cover it. Not all companies will do this, but we found ARP Hartford would do this for us. Best to all, Smitty

Great timing, for non slide coach! This is a rolling classic! If looking for a non-slide, this unit is really in great shape. (I walked thru and around it probably 3 times, while getting work (Nope, not my slides:)!) - this coach was garage kept, and even down to the OEM Southwestern Bedspread matching the Valances (The era, this was a 'thing'!)... Would prefer a Concept towards the later years with the DD60 Series - but the great shape of the coach, and Gillig bus chassis, would not make me too unhappy with the 450HP of the 8V92:)! This coach, the Country Coach Concept, really raised the bar for the higher end models from say Monaco or Foretravel - they really had to dig pick up the game!! (Of course, that's all IMHO:)!) Smitty https://www.premierrvservices.com/1992-country-coach-concept-40/

A comment on slide vs non slides. (Understand you've decided you prefer non slide, so more so those who might read this thread in the future:)!). When traveling for months at a time, or full time, and having a period of weather that keeps you in doors for multiple days at a time - that extra space of a slide, is a nice feature:)! No question, that a non slide coach, will never have problems with, well - a slide:)! But also if the coach you choose is of good quality, solid chassis, and solid components - slides will be relatively reliable. (And yes, some coaches, and trailers and fivers - did have problems with slides, especially in model year changes and with new designed slide approaches. But those should be weeded out during the search process.) Normal maintenance of slides is not significant. And yes over time, slide toppers may need replacing. And also no question that a slide's insulation is not as good as the rest of a coach. So trade off's for sure. For those who might consider a coach with a slide, research between Electric and Hydraulic. And look at Deep slides vs shallow slides. A negative of coaches with lots of slides, say four, is that you lose about 1' of wall space (~6") on each side of the slide, for cabinets. And cabinets within a slide, are usually 6-8" less high, which reduces storage space. Access to lower bays with four slide coaches, can be a PITA too. A good compromise, is Three Slides in a coach, with no slide not he Passenger/Patio front living area of the coach. All that being said, some of the Prevost based 40' coaches without slides, are surprisingly affordable, and usually solid coaches. We just had a friend leave the park we're in here in Oregon, in a 2nd year Prevost 40' based non slide Country Coach. The person helping her drive the coach (Owner lost her husband 3-4 years ago, and a fellow park member and Country Coach owner drives with her when she comes to Oregon in the summer from Tucson, and the back home at the end of the season.), commented that even with 160K + on this coach, it was just a dream to drive, solid, and incredible power with the Detroit DD60 series... And, he's 6' 5" tall, and finds the coach surprisingly livable for the few days of travel each way. (He did say, he would not trade his two slide 40' Intrigue for it:)! As he would rather have the slides, then the headroom!!! Best to you, Smitty

It would not be as good in 'cold' weather as a true '4 season' trailer. Especially with the slides. The insulation values of most this coach would not be as high as say a Triple E. This coach is a mid a lower mid tier Class A gasser. And not meant as bad thing, it met the price point the manufacturer was targeting, and a customer was willing to pay. That does not mean you can not add reflexit to the windows, insulation to the solar light in the bath (If it has one.), insulation cushions into the roof vent. Cover the dash inside/and out, to reduce heat lost... But if you really are going to deep cold usage, do more fact gathering by owners of that manufacturer and coach. IRV2 Owner's area might be able to help you. Good luck, Smitty