Truck Compressor Part 2

[SuiteSuccess]

I originally posted this thread http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=125396&hl=suitesuccess#entry869036 about my compressor. Pressured up my truck and fixed all the leaks I could find. Started up truck and allowed pressure to build to 135 and went for short drive. Came back, popped the hood, and big leak around fan clutch hub which I hadn't heard before. Looks like the seal was probably the culprit in the first place and finally let loose. Now a question, found a good mom and pop repair facility 2 hrs away which I visited last year. Can save about $1500 over Volvo dealer if I go there. Safe to drive that distance? Does not seem to be a bearing in the clutch just a seal.

[lappir]

This would be the best time to travel, while it's cool. There should be no reason for the fan to come on unless you get stuck in traffic along the way and maybe not even then. What does the Mom and Pop mechanic think?

 

Rod

[SuiteSuccess]

This would be the best time to travel, while it's cool. There should be no reason for the fan to come on unless you get stuck in traffic along the way and maybe not even then. What does the Mom and Pop mechanic think?

 

Rod

Just talked to him and he felt it should be fine. Fan still comes on at startup as it should and no wobble or squeals that might be from bearings. When I asked again if it was something they could handle, he said is it a Horton?, gave me my clutch part number which matches, and said he keeps the Gold Top rebuild kits in stock and they do probably two-three a week. Cost SIGNIFICANTLY less than dealer. Need to get this done so we can be ready for next season.

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Carl,

 

You shouldn't have a problem just going that distance in this weather. The compressor should keep up with the air loss so it sounds like it is road trip time. Are you and Donna going to stay in Nashville and have a good time while waiting on the truck?

[SuiteSuccess]

Carl,

 

You shouldn't have a problem just going that distance in this weather. The compressor should keep up with the air loss so it sounds like it is road trip time. Are you and Donna going to stay in Nashville and have a good time while waiting on the truck?

David,

 

Actually only going to Crossville instead of B&B in Murfreesboro. Talked to J&K Truck repair and they have a lot of experience in rebuilds so feel good about it. Total cost estimate $1,000-$1200 compared to $1800-2200 at Volvo dealer here.

[Bob Cochran]

If I remember right the fan will be engaged if it has no air. Taking this in consideration as well as cool weather don't see a problem. May have slightly less diesel mileage per gallon if fan engaged all the time is all.

[Mark and Dale Bruss]

Don't push it for too long. There are bearings in the fan hub and when they fail, the fan usually takes out the radiator, the heat exchanger and possibly the hood.

[SuiteSuccess]

Don't push it for too long. There are bearings in the fan hub and when they fail, the fan usually takes out the radiator, the heat exchanger and possibly the hood.

Duly noted Mark. Luckily found independent shop which is a lot closer than original which has lots of experience rebuilding these. Gonna gamble the $1000 savings that I can make it ok. Driving to dealer is 30 miles, shop is 65 so is a gamble either way unless I have it towed.

[SuiteSuccess]

Well didn't make it to Crossville. Started truck up to go and air leak was so bad compressor was kicking on within 1 min. Ended up going to Volvo dealer here and in the shop now. Parts Dept cut me a break on the clutch ($800 instead of $950), but labor at $135/hr. is gonna hurt. Oh well, just money, they print it every day I've heard.

[Pat & Pete]

Oh well, just money, they print it every day I've heard.

 

They do , but , they have never given any of it to me . ;(

[HERO Maker]

Well didn't make it to Crossville. Started truck up to go and air leak was so bad compressor was kicking on within 1 min. Ended up going to Volvo dealer here and in the shop now. Parts Dept cut me a break on the clutch ($800 instead of $950), but labor at $135/hr. is gonna hurt. Oh well, just money, they print it every day I've heard.

Carl, please clarify "compressor was kicking on within 1 Min".????!!!

[SuiteSuccess]

Rocky,

 

Normally the "kick in" for the compressor should occur when system gets to 100 psi and "kick out" with that familiar chuff at 130-135 psi. Now according to most folks that change of 35psi should take 15 mins or longer in normal driving depending on your air leaks. I started losing 35psi in less than a minute so my compressor was going through that cycle about every minute. The leak around my fan clutch became that bad. Lesson learned that I wasn't off base when I thought there may be a problem with my clutch in July or maybe just serendipity.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

 

They do , but , they have never given any of it to me . ;(

Actually,it grows in fields.... Cotton fields,

Then made into jean/demin Material, then the scraps get rebleached and ground into our "Paper" money.....

[HERO Maker]

Carl, please clarify "compressor was kicking on within 1 Min".????!!!

Sorry, you made it sound like the compressor was kicking on within 1 min of start up! (and I'm thinking sure!) I'm too easily confused these days.

[phoenix2013]

Fan clutch was leaking big time. Radiator also needs replacement. Apparently my radiator is a very common aftermarket part, $700 part. Fan clutch rebuild kit $452. Both quotes by my independent truck repair shop, about $2,200, parts and labor to do both. Their mechanic somehow stopped the leak in the fan clutch so the truck is drive able. I always had lot more respect for good mechanics than for university intellectuals. He's a Cuban who before he left Castro's "paradise" was "the mechanic" on see going cargo vessels. He said "in the middle of the ocean there are no parts stores, or other help. You fix it or the ship and the crew dies". He has no plans to leave this little shop and work for a dealer.

[SuiteSuccess]

Fan clutch was leaking big time. Radiator also needs replacement. Apparently my radiator is a very common aftermarket part, $700 part. Fan clutch rebuild kit $452. Both quotes by my independent truck repair shop, about $2,200, parts and labor to do both. Their mechanic somehow stopped the leak in the fan clutch so the truck is drive able. I always had lot more respect for good mechanics than for university intellectuals. He's a Cuban who before he left Castro's "paradise" was "the mechanic" on see going cargo vessels. He said "in the middle of the ocean there are no parts stores, or other help. You fix it or the ship and the crew dies". He has no plans to leave this little shop and work for a dealer.

That's why I wanted to get to a smaller shop. My bill from the dealer was $1885 with tax for new fan clutch and solenoid. Interesting I also had them check the leveling valve I installed on steer axle last week. When I got original bill it was over $2200 with charge of 2 hours ($275) for "adjusting valve." I questioned that with the service man on second shift and asked him to pull up the narrative of the repair because I thought they had replaced my new valve and bag although no parts had been charged. He couldn't find what had been done and when I looked on truck nothing had been replaced. I told him to adjust that valve after install required loosening two screws and turning valve body less than 1/2" at most- no way this could take two and one half hours. Luckily the service manager with whom I've dealt before walked up as he was leaving for home and asked if there was a problem. I recounted the story and he said no way that took more than a few minutes and he never charged for it. He not only knocked off the charge and tax but another $100 for the mistake. Lesson learned, I will only deal with the service manager I know who has always been honest with me if I have to go to the dealer. And always check your bill and have some idea if possible of what the work entails. BTW the independent I was originally going to use but couldn't chance it would have cost at most $1300 plus tax.

[MrSeas]

....so now what is the time span on your air dryer purging?

[SuiteSuccess]

....so now what is the time span on your air dryer purging?

Haven't timed since only drove home from shop but definitely much longer (10-15 mins?). Still have an audible leak on the front frame rail I've got to find. Will repost at next long drive with times.

[RandyA]

I think I would be inclined to plug the air line to the fan clutch and use some good ol' hillbilly injinunity to install some electric radiator fans. Not sure what fans I would use, but Pappy's Pick and Pay auto salvage yard has a lot to choose from. Just a thought, you know.

[Pat & Pete]

I think I would be inclined to plug the air line to the fan clutch and use some good ol' hillbilly injinunity to install some electric radiator fans. Not sure what fans I would use, but Pappy's Pick and Pay auto salvage yard has a lot to choose from. Just a thought, you know.

 

Not the same as an HDT , but when the fan clutch went out on my Dodge pickup , I installed a couple of electric fans along with a thermal switch so I never had to worry about any over heating . I think I had about 35 bucks in the 'new' set up .

[RandyA]

 

Not the same as an HDT , but when the fan clutch went out on my Dodge pickup , I installed a couple of electric fans along with a thermal switch so I never had to worry about any over heating . I think I had about 35 bucks in the 'new' set up .

Hummm....... being the type of guy I am, I wouldn't be too quick to reach the conclusion that it wouldn't work on an HDT (I gather you think it could?). Well, it might be a problem for one pulling a 60,000 pound load up a long 8% mountain grade on a 90+ degree summer day - but that is not what I am doing. When my fan clutch cuts in there is a very noticeable roar - one that immediately lets you know when extra air is needed. But, you know, that doesn't happen very often and when it does it only runs for a minute or two even with the A/C on, cools the red brew down and then cuts off. On the open road it never cuts in. So, I am of the belief that if the HDT radiator is, say for example, 36" x 36", mounting four 18" electric radiator cooling fans would be more than adequate. They are powerful little buggers with a blade width and pitch designed to move a lot of air even with high static pressure - actually more like an airplane propeller than a cool breeze box fan. Like you said, use a new temp sending unit or just tap the OEM electric to air solenoid from the ECM to flick the bigger on/off switch. Shucks, you could even wire the buggers to be staged in sequence depending on temperature. Nice project for an Ardunio. One of the things that people who know me well have learned is never to tell me I can't make something different work in place of OEM or turn some surplus junque into a useful item. That just makes me more determined. Still, I hope it is a project I never have to undertake.

[Pat & Pete]

Hummm....... being the type of guy I am, I wouldn't be too quick to reach the conclusion that it wouldn't work on an HDT (I gather you think it could?). Well, it might be a problem for one pulling a 60,000 pound load up a long 8% mountain grade on a 90+ degree summer day - but that is not what I am doing. When my fan clutch cuts in there is a very noticeable roar - one that immediately lets you know when extra air is needed. But, you know, that doesn't happen very often and when it does it only runs for a minute or two even with the A/C on, cools the red brew down and then cuts off. On the open road it never cuts in. So, I am of the belief that if the HDT radiator is, say for example, 36" x 36", mounting four 18" electric radiator cooling fans would be more than adequate. They are powerful little buggers with a blade width and pitch designed to move a lot of air even with high static pressure - actually more like an airplane propeller than a cool breeze box fan. Like you said, use a new temp sending unit or just tap the OEM electric to air solenoid from the ECM to flick the bigger on/off switch. Shucks, you could even wire the buggers to be staged in sequence depending on temperature. Nice project for an Ardunio. One of the things that people who know me well have learned is never to tell me I can't make something different work in place of OEM or turn some surplus junque into a useful item. That just makes me more determined. Still, I hope it is a project I never have to undertake.

 

I'm sure it could be done on an HDT . They just have more area to cool .

 

Sounds like you don't have much to worry about , but when you hear that clutch start squealing , head for the junk yard .

[SuiteSuccess]

I'm sure it could be done on an HDT . They just have more area to cool .

 

Sounds like you don't have much to worry about , but when you hear that clutch start squealing , head for the junk yard .

Bet it would be cheaper than $1300-1800.

[Pat & Pete]

Bet it would be cheaper than $1300-1800.

 

Even a hundred dollars seems like you'd have enough left for a decent dinner .

 

But , there are guys out there that have to spend the big bucks .

[RickW]

Personally I would want to verify that the electric fans are going to move the same amount of air, if not more. I am 45k#. A few years ago I left San Diego headed for Vegas, in June. My fan kicks in at 195*. I had never seen the water temp cross the 197* mark before. At 208* I finally kicked off the cruse and took my foot out of it. I had to drop to 40mph in order to keep the water temp at 200*. I was passing other trucks as they were just crawling.

 

Also consider the electrical draw. The single electric fan on my Chevy P/U puts a noticeable draw on the electrical system when it kicks over. Multiply that the number of fans, can the electrical system keep up on a longer grade?

 

Now what would be cool with multiple electrical fans is at different temps that will determine how many of the fans kick on. So in a camp ground for instance you don't kick up as much dust as maybe only 1 fan kicks on for example.