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Which disk brake for upgrade


GlennWest

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I had promised myself I would not spend much money on my electric brake system. As many know I am having some issues now. I have been searching on here as I remember reading comparison between Dexter and Kodiak systems. Can't find them now. Dexter appears to be a more robust system. But most seem to be using Kodiak. I have 7k Dexter axles with 8k hubs, brakes X3. The electric stops great when working. This is a robust braking system just magnets. Would it be good with Kodiak or do I need to go with Dexter. We weigh just shy of 21k. Also the Teton is loosing weight because I am transferring stuff to Freightshaker.

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As I remember the difference is that Kodiac is single sided calipers and Dexter is dual sided. Usually the choice was driven by cost, not functionality.

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Yes, I am aware of cost difference. My Teton is heavier than what I normally find on forums/net discussing this. Most seem content with Kodiak brakes but are much lighter than we are. Reckon I should ask if Dexter worth the money on a heavy unit.

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Glen,

 

I've not converted but asked the same question couple of years ago. My research and consensus from those that responded was the Dexter is a more robust system and what I'd go with if I converted. Haven't done it because ours still does pretty well with electric brakes and we aren't nor plan to be full timers. Cost for our two 8k axles (MorRyde IS) I think was about $2500.

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I've had both. I'd go Dexter in the future. Especially if you put on BluDot. The Dexter does cost more, but it is likely a better system, all things considered. But the Kodiak stopped my 3 axle 23K Royals International just fine.

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I'm running 21K gross on two 8K axles with Kodiak brakes and don't have any issues. I can't imagine needing more with an additional axle at that weight level. If we were running 28K or so on three axles, I might reconsider but you should be OK with either system.

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I'm running 21K gross on two 8K axles with Kodiak brakes and don't have any issues. I can't imagine needing more with an additional axle at that weight level. If we were running 28K or so on three axles, I might reconsider but you should be OK with either system.

Thank you. I do believe stopping power is equal on both systems. I intend, baring wreck, weather totaling, keeping this unit. I want a system that will last. Dexter is pricey. You have a very new DRV. Blue Dot is tempting.

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Blue Dot is just how the master cylinder is activated. Either an electric servo motor for electric over hydraulic or air actuated for Blue Dot. They have nothing to do with the actual braking capacity of the system. If anything, I would be tempted to add ABS brakes if I was re-working the entire system and leave it electric/hydraulic just for that ability instead of putting additional money into a air/hydraulic system.

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I haven't had a problem locking up the trailer yet. I have Kodak. I can replace the brake pads at oreilly. With Dexter you have to orde parts from them and I have heard it can take a while.

Ron C.

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I just installed Kodiak on 7K Dexter EZ-Lube axles. I went with new hubs and separate rotors - not the one piece units. Parts came from etrailer.com. With free shipping they had the best price. Not sure what Mark meant about single sided calipers unless Dexter uses 2 calipers per wheel. IMHO they are very robust. All parts including lines, actuator and a extra hub came to about $1,500. Not hard to install.

 

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Dexter are 6 piston calipers 3 on each of each caliper. Pistons push from both sides of disk.

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I believe for the ABS you have to contact them since it is not so much a simple bolt on kit.

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Dexter are 6 piston calipers 3 on each of each caliper. Pistons push from both sides of disk.

WOW - that is robust!

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"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

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To change your electric over hydraulic to air over hydraulic, the cost for the Blue Dot system is only in the $550 range, plus your hoses and connections to get them to the truck. If you have ABS on your trailer, then you are going to spend about $1100, plus your hoses and connections to your truck.

 

There is no hesitation that might be felt with electric/hydraulic, and not dialing in your controller. Everything is controlled by the truck air system.

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One downside to the Dexter brakes is that in our neck of the woods, all of the brake parts are special order and overnight shipping cost to get the rig back on the road.

 

The only Dexter stuff I have seen had fixed 4 piston calipers. Kodiak was 2 piston floating caliper.

 

I'm not partial to either other than the Kodiak is a little easier to work on and get parts for. I hate special non standard components that are not readily available........

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In My Not So Humble Opinion ...... :) , if you aren't singled, the electric drums on the Teton are fine as you likely only use them for the last 100 ft of a normal stop. For a panic stop, if you keep them adjusted properly (takes only a screwdriver and the wheel off the ground) the drums will serve you well and not lighten your wallet $3K. I have heard a number of stories about folks that had the electric over hydraulics eat up a couple sets of pads and rotors because the caliper sticks or they don't fully release or ????

 

We weigh right at 50,000 lbs (10K, 25K, and 15K on the Teton), and it stops just fine in a planned or unplanned stop.

 

If I ever feel a bunch of $$$$ causing heat and discomfort on my back side, it's 17.5" wheels and tires rated at 4850 lbs for me....ya that's it, ya B)

 

 

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Yup, I understand the upgrade and tweek addiction. I'm the King of Overkill normally, but have resisted the disc brake thing.... so far. To demonstrate the level of my upgrade addiction, I have toyed with the concept of designing an S cam air brake system that could be installed on an 8K axle ..... sick ha

:blink:

 

 

2009 Volvo 780 D16 535hp 1850 ft-lbs I shift 3.36

Thermo King Tripac APU

DIY Bed and Frame Extension

ET Hitch, Stellar EC2000, EcoGen 6K

2002 F350 CC Dually w/ Lance 1181

2012 Mini Cooper S

2007 Teton Royal Freedom

 

" The only place you will find success before work is the dictionary "

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The reason you go through pads on the trailer when rowing with a hdt is because we are used to feeling the trailer brakes hit the truck when applYing. With out big brakes we don't need that feeling. If you feel the trailer brakes apy they are too tight and you will eat your pads.

Ron C.

2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3

2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime

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