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Volvo Leveling Control Valve


Jim & Wilma

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I need to replace the rear suspension leveling control valve on our 2009 730. It’s a Hadley valve but can’t find a part number on it and appears there’s a few different configurations using the same valve body. My guess is it’s the H01501UD, but just guessing. Anybody know the part number?

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Jim, it has been almost five years prior, but I found this in my archives.

 

My replacement was a H01501VS.

hadley.jpg That number is close to yours but not exact. Keep in mind my Volvo came with a WABCO valve and not a Hadley. The parts guy at Volvo takes my VIN, looks up the part and says, "here, this'll work, pay me." He hasn't given me the wrong part yet.

 

Old WABCO below:

4.jpg

 

This is the H01501VS Kit

valve%20color%20close%20up.jpg

 

Man, it is hard to remember everything........ but I do recall buying a new rod with the rubber end pieces since it did not come with the valve. There was something about the rod that was off and I ended up having to do something to make the rod work. Make it longer or shorter or swap rubber from new to old metal rod - there have been so many things my memory discards the little details. But, in any event this kit worked on my '04 VNL and (thankfully) is still working.

 

I did notice on your link that the part you asked about indicates that it will replace the Volvo H1501VS (No 0 after H?) so it will most likely work as well.

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Is there a way to keep the hitch aired up when the engine is running and the truck is enroute? I know the hitch can be plumbed into th air in several locations. Mine previously would lose air when I was driving, now it stays inflated.

 

When the truck shuts off the hitch could be dumped and stay down.

 

Also when the suspension is dumped, doesn't go back up when ignition is turned off.

 

Where would what be plumbed into in order to accomplish this?

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Roger

Someone here had a levelling valve added to their Trailer Saver but I couldn't find the thread. I'd like to do that to mine as well and I have the valve but need help with the design and fab. There must be a way to change the air dump switch from switched power to live, I assume you want this for loading and unloading the smart.

 

Nigel

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Nigel,

 

If memory serves (that is often iffy) Rickeieio added a leveling valve to his. Maybe he will chime in.

Carl,

 

For an olde pharte, your memory's pretty good.

 

Yes, I added a leveling valve to our TS hitch. I have pictures, but still haven't figured out how to post them. I'll dig around and send them to you via email.

 

I tapped in to the line which supplies the rear suspension. I plan to add a valve to allow me to deflate just the hitch.

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Roger

Someone here had a levelling valve added to their Trailer Saver but I couldn't find the thread. I'd like to do that to mine as well and I have the valve but need help with the design and fab. There must be a way to change the air dump switch from switched power to live, I assume you want this for loading and unloading the smart.

 

Nigel

That's one of the reasons, truck drops 4". I've already damages one hitch by having the truck air up when truck was moved back with ignition off.

 

Depending on where it is plumbed in the truck compressor will keep the hitch bags aired up while truck is running. On the other hand, when I dump the suspension bags and air from hitch while unhooking, I'd like the hitch bags not inflate afterwards until I'm hoking back up again.

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I need to replace the rear suspension leveling control valve on our 2009 730. It’s a Hadley valve but can’t find a part number on it and appears there’s a few different configurations using the same valve body. My guess is it’s the H01501UD, but just guessing. Anybody know the part number?

Not sure if Volvo has an online setup like Freightliner does. But if they do you can put in the S/N of your truck and it will give you the part number of the part that came factory.

Pete

 

PS found this you have to get an account. http://www.volvotrucks.us/parts-and-services/parts/select-part-store/

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Roger,

 

Depending on what you want the air to do, you could add a latching air solenoid or a non latching air solenoid to the airline going to the hitch. The latching type will keep whatever position the solenoid is in when power is turned off (air up or air down). The non latching solenoid will keep the air in the same position (air up or air down) as long as power is supplied but will dump the air when the truck is turned off. Power to the solenoid is routed to a switch on the dash to make it simple to use.

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That's one of the reasons, truck drops 4". I've already damages one hitch by having the truck air up when truck was moved back with ignition off.

 

Depending on where it is plumbed in the truck compressor will keep the hitch bags aired up while truck is running. On the other hand, when I dump the suspension bags and air from hitch while unhooking, I'd like the hitch bags not inflate afterwards until I'm hoking back up again.

 

Another option would be to plumb in a DC powered solenoid. That's what I will be doing on mine when I finish out the back of the bed.

 

I have my hitch supplied with the same air circuit as the rear suspension. To dump the bags, I'll flip one switch on the dash or at the rear of the truck. The switch will open one valve (at the hitch to release air) and close another valve (to keep the suspension filled).

 

11617a9c-1a38-4b4d-9be6-295ede4c5e05-s.j
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Before you start running wire, poke around in the dash for unused connectors. On my truck there are a bunch (no sleeper, but still has most of the wiring for one), and a few of them are already wired to the solenoid block near the back of the transmission. If you can find one of those, you could buy the Volvo switch and solenoid and save a lot of hassle--just needing to run the air line to the hitch.

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Before you start running wire, poke around in the dash for unused connectors. On my truck there are a bunch (no sleeper, but still has most of the wiring for one), and a few of them are already wired to the solenoid block near the back of the transmission. If you can find one of those, you could buy the Volvo switch and solenoid and save a lot of hassle--just needing to run the air line to the hitch.

Being as you mention this, I'm going to high jack and ask a question. I just removed a 5th wheel lock/unlock switch yesterday. Has wires and air lines going to the location I likely need the valves. Could I use this for a rear air bag dump. My truck don't have one. Who would have thunk.

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Jim, it has been almost five years prior, but I found this in my archives.

 

My replacement was a H01501VS.

Yup, that looks the same as the one I have and figure the difference in the last two characters is the kitting. The "UD" version comes with a variety of levers and "VS" version is a fitting mod kit to convert from the WABCO . Otherwise the hose sizes, positive dump signal and such are the same. Thanks for info and diagrams. Interesting they sold a kit to mod from the WABCO versus just sourcing the WABCO. Mine appears to be original installed Hadley.

 

Not sure if Volvo has an online setup like Freightliner does. But if they do you can put in the S/N of your truck and it will give you the part number of the part that came factory.

Pete

 

PS found this you have to get an account. http://www.volvotrucks.us/parts-and-services/parts/select-part-store/

That'd be nice to sit at home and see what parts my dealer has. Submitted info and got a "Thank you for your SELECT Part Store application submission. We will be in touch soon." response. So we'll see.

 

Barksdale Part # 52341 Q293F3

 

Current production on most trucks

Thanks. Functionally that's the same valve but connections are oriented differently.

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Being as you mention this, I'm going to high jack and ask a question. I just removed a 5th wheel lock/unlock switch yesterday. Has wires and air lines going to the location I likely need the valves. Could I use this for a rear air bag dump. My truck don't have one. Who would have thunk.

Duh. Senior moment here. Yes, I used the sliding fifth wheel switch to supply my hitch, and DID NOT tee into the rear suspension ans I stated previously. I've slept since then, in various places, even a Holiday Inn.

 

In the picture Carl so graciously posted for me, you can see I utilized an existing hole in the hitch, drilled and tapped a bolt to provide a pivot point for the ball joint. What the picture doesn't show is that configured as such, it will bring that short arm over center and bend stuff. I've since doubled the length of the arm on the valve and it now works as intended. Moving the valve closer to the pivot point of the hitch would accomplish the same thing.

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I have a 2005 780 and I replaced my rear leveling valve in the summer of 2014 and used Volvo # 85124912. It seems that number has now been "upgraded" to Volvo # 85144423.

There is also a newer style leveling "rod" that connects between the suspension and the leveling valve. It eliminates the "rubber" pieces Volvo # 22379948

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I have a 2005 780 and I replaced my rear leveling valve in the summer of 2014 and used Volvo # 85124912. It seems that number has now been "upgraded" to Volvo # 85144423.

More clues - thanks. Found a picture of your Volvo # 85124912 and appears to also be a Hadley H01501, same as mine. Went ahead and ordered the Hadley and will probably install next weekend.

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