Water filter

[tinstartrvlr]

Well, once again, I have questions. The Escapees forum has become my best friend of late!

 

My new TT has an inline canister water filter built in. I found the wrench and the cartridge, but no instructions on how to open the canister and insert the filter.

 

The canister looks full of water, and since I don't know what I'm doing, I can almost guarantee a wet storage bin if I take it apart. Shutting off the water supply is the obvious first, but what about all the water in the canister?

 

I realize this is probably a simple process but it's new to me, and I don't want to screw anything up.

 

Part of me wants to just leave it alone, or even just remove it from the system, since it looks like a problem waiting to happen. I use inline hose filters, and would consider investing in a more significant water purification system someday, but for now, I have what I have.

 

Pic attached.

 

A little help please......

 

Thanks.

[4905 doc]

After shutting off water, it looks like you will have to use a drain pan of some sort to catch what water you'll spill. Your picture looks to have enough room under the filter to do this.

[Pat & Pete]

Canister is most likely righty tighty , lefty loosy ...

 

That inline filter is probably a much better filter than your hose filter . And , it'll last a lot longer , at a lower cost .

[Devilishjim]

Looks like you have the same filter I do and I could never find a filter that didn't reduce my water pressure so I just stayed with the Wal-Mart inline one

[Kirk W]

I believe that Doc is on the right track. Most of those canister screw into the housing from below and it will be full of water. Be sure that you relieve the pressure on the water by opening a faucet after you shut off the supply as it will be under pressure if you do not. And I would also use a plastic dishpan or something similar under it as you will spill some water.

[oldjohnt]

I've seen several such reservoir canister type of water filters WHY NO BOTTOM CENTER DRAIN COCK GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR they are of course water filled so have your drain pan and a towel handy. Some come equipped with a nice handy canister wrench which makes removal easier and don't overtighten them!!!!!

 

John T

[bigjim]

One thing is after you take the filter out you could put it back together without the filter and use an in line filter if you find that easier.

Either way spot check it for a day or so to make sure you have a good seal. Does the one you show just go to the kitchen sink and is it charcoal? If so it is as much for taste as anything.

[ray.service]

I've seen several such reservoir canister type of water filters WHY NO BOTTOM CENTER DRAIN COCK GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR they are of course water filled so have your drain pan and a towel handy. Some come equipped with a nice handy canister wrench which makes removal easier and don't overtighten them!!!!!

 

John T

And lube the O ring.

[tinstartrvlr]

Thanks everyone for the responses.

 

Kind of what I figured; unscrew it and prepare for a wet mess most likely even with a pan, and then as Jim said, make sure there are no leaks. I really think I will just take it out of the mix-seems it's just a leak waiting to happen. Or figure out a way to put it where it won't matter if it leaks, but can't think of where that might be!

 

I have the wrench, and it is a whole system filter. Just paper filter, no charcoal.

 

John, I feel your aggravation! What a simple concept, except it makes too much sense, and we all know how sensible the RV makers are sometimes...

[Smitty77_7]

Also run the water outlet that you feel is closest to the filter, until the new filter is flowing clean water. On ours, our wet bay hand nozzle is less then 2 1/2' away, so it makes it a 1 to 2 minute job of running water.

 

Also, if you have an ice maker and it has an inline filter, a good time to change this to too. Keeping them in sync makes it easier.

 

Surprised at the step down in pressure. I'm sure we have some, but it is not a large drop. For those of you with house pressure regulators, sometimes they will build up hard water deposits. If adjustable, suggest a yearly change up/down of the regulator at the same time as new filters. This keeps the valve working, and often assists in breaking up deposits.

 

Best to all,

Smitty

[RV_]

I have a housing that has a pressure relief valve on the top. I turn the water off and then open the cold water side until it stops running. Then before I remover the filter I have a red pressure relief valve on top that I press to relieve any residual pressure. I still use a drip pan as already mentioned. One thing no one has mentioned is before you install the first one, and at every filter change, you want to have a good size tube of Food Grade Silicone lubricant grease. You use the plastic wrench to remove it, but to put it back on, remember to lube both sides of the thread and on the O ring. Hand tighten to snug only as the O ring can be broken or crushed allowing water to seep out when you turn it back on. If you are where you can watch a 5 minute video, here is one that shows you type of filter. You did not get a picture of the top from above so I could not see if yours had the fancy new built in water valve in the top. Or if it had a pressure relief valve, which usually is a red button. Here's the video. get a tube of food grade silicone grease and keep it on hand.

 

All I used for my RV filter is the cheapest charcoal filter cartridge because no fast flow filter, which yours uses, can filter out bacteria and viruses. They are really only good for removing Chlorine which the charcoal does by adsorption, and filter out sediment. They are to make all water coming in taste good. If you are in an area like I encountered in Arizona with very hard scaly water will also not be filtered out.

 

Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6GZ2Pk0Tes

[Kirk W]

If your filter housing happens to be one with a pressure relief, usually a button to push on the top, you will probably get a small amount of water out of the relief so be sure to put the catch pan in place before you push the relief.

[RV_]

And don't forget to check for a pressure relief valve, and put a pan under it before you start.

[tyates007]

If you drain your low point water drains it will suck a couple of inches out of the canister and avoid the mess.

[tinstartrvlr]

Good thought. Thanks. Except I am not sure where to find the low point drain. There is a sticker on the side indicating where it is but unless it's inside the underbelly cover, there is nothing there. Doesn't make sense I should have to take down the cover to get to low point drain. Unless somehow it is tied into the fresh water tank drain, which is nearby and indicated by its own sticker.

[mptjelgin]

The low point drains will often appear as two tubes (1/2" diameter or so) projecting just below the underbelly covering. The valves themselves may be up in the trailer. On mine they are accessed from a storage compartment by opening a panel beside the utility hookup station. Behind that cover are two small valves, one for cold water and one for hot. These are the low point drains. When open you should see water exiting the small pipes that project through the underbelly cover (if wasps haven't stuffed mud in them, another story...). .

 

On my previous trailer the valves themselves were just below the underbelly and so were visible underneath the trailer.

 

The key is to find the drain pipes themselves under the trailer, and then look inside just above them to find the valves.

 

Good luck!!

[Kirk W]

On my previous trailer the valves themselves were just below the underbelly and so were visible underneath the trailer.

The key is to find the drain pipes themselves under the trailer, and then look inside just above them to find the valves.

I agree with this means of locating them. Once you find the outlets, then locate where the water lines are physically located and there will probably be valves there, unless they show on the outlet or there could be caps on the drain tubes.

[Zulu]

And lube the O ring.

 

Also lube the canister threads -- I use Vaseline -- to make next time easier.

[Shadow Catcher]

You should use food grade silicone grease (plumbers supply) which will not hurt the seals rather than Vaseline which can.

[Zulu]

You should use food grade silicone grease (plumbers supply) which will not hurt the seals rather than Vaseline which can.

 

First, the O rings used in my water canister -- as well as others I'm guessing -- are synthetic rubber (Buna N) which is resistant to oil, fuel, etc.

 

Second, do you have a source for Vaseline's adverse affects on rubber and/or synthetic rubber?

[Mark and Dale Bruss]

10 years of replacing jumbo water filters, never needed lubricant on the threads of the canister nor the gaskets. The canister material doesn't need a lubricant.

 

Turn off the water pressure. You slowly unscrew the canister body and hold it vertical as it comes out of the header. Swing the canister over out of the bay and dump it. No need to make it complicated.

[Zulu]

10 years of replacing jumbo water filters, never needed lubricant on the threads of the canister nor the gaskets.

 

They come off much easier with a lubricant.

[Shadow Catcher]

http://www.walnet.org/csis/med_research/oilstudy.html

[Pat & Pete]

 

First, the O rings used in my water canister -- as well as others I'm guessing -- are synthetic rubber (Buna N) which is resistant to oil, fuel, etc.

 

Second, do you have a source for Vaseline's adverse affects on rubber and/or synthetic rubber?

 

 

http://www.walnet.org/csis/med_research/oilstudy.html

 

Mineral Oil Lubricants Cause Rapid Deterioration of Latex

 

Latex ? It seems a bit of a stretch ...

[mscans]

This from an o ring manufacturer.

http://www.applerubber.com/seal-design-guide/material-selection-guide/nitrile-buna-n.cfm

 

Short story:

Key Use(s): Oil resistant applications of all types. Low temperature military uses. Off-road equipment. Automotive, marine, aircraft fuel systems. Can be compounded for FDA applications.

 

Look like Buna-N is OK.