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About Devilishjim

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    Major Contributor
  • Birthday 08/26/1946

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  • Location
    Congress, AZ
  • Interests
    prospecting, riding quad or motorcycle, BBQing a nice steak

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  1. I would try running your awning rod in there and run water while you pull out on it and hopefully you can get it worked out.. Thats what I use to clean mine turn water on full bore and run the rod back and forth on the bottom of heater until all the goodies stop floating out
  2. My son was younger than yours when I divorced and I can tell you that once or twice a year will not work. As he grows older he will develop friendships with others that he spends time with daily. A 2 week vacation in the RV might work but he is going to start missing his mother, his friends and his daily routines. As my aging mother used to say She liked often, short visits. This hurts me just writing this bringing up memories, but any way you look at it this moving away in an RV and not seeing him for long periods of time is going to hurt everyone. You and your wife need to decide whats best
  3. It could be a relay that cllcks off after you hit the end of the cycle but they normally reset themselves within a minute, My rear stabilizers are like that. My relay is right behind the rocker switch for stabilizers on the saame panel. I can hear it but not see it. Make sure your key is on and listen for a click when you activate the switch
  4. If in doubt hang a heat lamp below the tank or add a cpl gallons of whiskey to the tank
  5. I could think of better places to work. If you had use of a backhoe and a field you could bury about 3 ft of 24" corrugated poly pipe and you would be in business
  6. run your jacks out to level trailer and block under frame and then retract jacks or leave hooked to tow vehicle. All the weight sits on the king pin when you are towing it and the highest they could go which they wouldnt is until the backend hits which you come close to when you pull through road gutter to fast when you pull in to get fuel.. You can call IND and ask but I'm sure they do it the same way
  7. I was afraid you might get that answer. You could have a local shop uninstall it and plug your lines so oil doesnt leak. Their should be a local garage close to Sutter that would do the install for you
  8. INDIANA is a long drive for a hydraulic ram repair when SWECO is within 200 miles, I know one guy that went there for repairs and he was amazed at the price and how fast they fixed him up. They rebuilt many backhoe rams for us and one excavator ram that had a big score on the shaft they sent to Sacramento Chrome craft and had it looking like new again. They also built a couple complete rams to our specs. When it comes to hydraulics they do it all
  9. SWECO Manufacturing in Sutter, CA less than 200 miles from you can rebuild, repair any hydraulic ram you have, Working for an irrigation dist I have done a lot of business with them, Their price will be about 1/2 what you pay at a dealer
  10. wiggle those fuses they can get corrosion on them
  11. Shear pin roll pin whatever, They werent available at the time and a 1/4" bolt was when I rebuilt the one leg
  12. A grade 5 bolt is softer than the shear pin Thats my reason for installing it
  13. put some grease under that cap ? Theres nothing worse than a sloppy shaft
  14. pretty standard I think, I pulled mine all the way out. You will have caulking to replace but no biggy To my recollection there is a flat washer above the tapered gear and then a small pin through the shaft to hold it up. That washer needs to be replaced, I think you will find where the pin has pushed way into the washer gears are probably good and where you pull that cross arm off should be a shear pin I replaced it with a grade 5 bolt plus put some extras in my pu ( 1/4" bolt x ?? 1" maybe 1 1/4"
  15. yes you have bushings Take a screw driver and pop off the top of the jack and with mirror you will have a good view and rebuilding is easy peasy
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