Ray,IN

I know nothing of the legalities. This narrative says the couple (O&O) hauls jet engines for Southern Pride Transport. I would think a jet engine is an over-size load, wouldn't that limit the routes they may drive?

AWW crap. Thanks Dutch, I'll have to find it again.. No reason it couldn't be built to haul a SMART car. EDIT: Hopefully I did it right this time when I corrected my link. JIC:

You are correct, sorry about that, I was backasswards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2pPOuzmyzM

Take your time, old wood splits easier. Every time I rushed something, next was "awww sh--t".

Lets look at that. Suppose you have a 12,000# winch, you attach it to your 5,000# rated hitch, the cable end to a large tree, or your 3,000# car. Now you begin pulling with the winch. Which will give first the 26,000# MH with wheels buried in mud/sand, the 3,000# car, or the 5,000# rated hitch?

Wife texts husband on a cold winter morning. " Windows frozen, won't open!". The husband replies: "Gently pour lukewarm water over it and tap edges gently with hammer". Wife texts back 10 minutes later "computer really messed up now!"

I'll be watching and waiting Derek!

63G inbed water tank fits behind pin hitch, https://www.horsetraileraccessorystore.com/63-Gallon-Truck-Bed-Water-Tank-Caddy_p_572.html Company is in Sandy, OR.

Oddly enough, my 20yr old Xantrex inverter/charger died today. I'm looking at this for a direct replacement: https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-815-3012-Freedom-Inverter-Charger/dp/B006VELG7A?th=1

JIC, Would any of these new tanks be the correct size? https://www.plastic-mart.com/category/34/rv-holding-tanks

Thanks for the information, just ran a manual update the patch was included.

Some technical service bulletin things may be paid for by the mfgr. for a limited time only. Just last week a man was telling another his engine dipstick was covered by a TSB, for free 2 years ago. A year later another man had to pay for the new dipstick for the same make, model, and engine.

No, an extended service contract only pays for damaged/failed things, it is NOT a warranty by law, most people just refer to an ESC as a warranty. Only the manufacturers original warranty may cover a Technical Service Bulletin =TSB.

Actually for 50A that is theoretical, it assumes you have every electrical consuming device in your RV split exactly between both 120V incoming legs. It seldom happens in real life, as each leg is limited to 50A. One can use the full 30A intermittently only. Continuous-duty of most breakers is rated at 80% capacity, between 80% and 100% generated heat may trip the breaker.

This appliance power requirements pdf will be helpful.

Here are the details of the latest hunt: https://www.sun-sentinel.com/news/florida/fl-ne-python-hunt-everglades-20200110-fuhnh3zaj5gvzkzw7turmhlqve-story.html I guess shotguns are out this year.

I'm in the buy the trailer first group. My reasoning is, say you buy a standard size SUV, then spot a trailer that causes you to swoon-er, bear with me here, then discover the trailer is too much weight to tow with your SUV. What do you do now? You pass up the can't-live-without-in trailer or trade-in your new SUV for something large enough to safely tow the trailer. When the time comes, this online travel trailer weight calculator will be handy. Note that it offers the 80% safety factor(optional) most full-timers recommend.

House; if I may jump in your thread, since I can't make up my mind, these are the two batteries I am considering. Hope it helps you with your decision. This is a 6V, 232AH battery: https://www.batteriesasap.com/product/us2200-xc2-us-battery/ This is a 12V, 115AH battery: https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/marine-and-boat/deep-cycle/bci-group-31m Since my MH came with 3, 12 house batteries, I'm inclined to cheap-out and stay with them; although 4 of the 6V batteries offer many more AH's available down to 50% SOD.

To both posters with starting problems. The very first step is to insure ALL wiring connections associated with the genset are clean and tight. FWIW, over 80% of 12V wiring issues are the result of a poor or missing ground. After that free step is completed, then begin with the more complicated stuff, solenoids, switches, faulty equipment, etc. I have seen battery cables that appear like new, cut away the insulation and the copper wires are green/corroded. Found a battery terminal clamp that was very corroded inside the crimp on the wires. The ohmmeter is your friend.

The only concern would be, your car spotting a cute little Tesla C and getting off course. Ya, bored X 30.

I have determined that all of the home-made deterrents work great, It put them out to keep elephants away, haven't seen any signs of them in/around the RV - ever.

When the switch is fully-depressed the circuit should be open to turn off the light, no continuity. The thermister is powered separately from the light bulb, as it is always powered any time the refrigerator is turned on. Have you downloaded the PDF STAFFNON linked? I think it has a wiring diagram.

expect the heat underneath to cause moisture collection on metal, especially if the furnace is not vented to the outside-exactly like your built-in furnace. LP when burned emits water vapor. Also, there is the issue of exhaust fumes to consider. Take care and do it right.