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Should I upgrade to agm


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My Teton came with a residential fridge so it got 4 12v batteries. Mine are getting some age and swelling. It is damaging the sheetmetal compartment also. Would like a battery with no vents as agm. We are always unless traveling in a campground with hookups. Any recommendations? Do I really need 4?

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Glenn, you run the fridge off an inverter right? You could go with 2 batteries and go AGM just for the ease of maintenance.

When you wire the NEW truck, run a second or heavier charge line to the Teton. Let the truck keep the batteries up when traveling.

Alie & Jim + 8 paws

2017 DRV Memphis 

BART- 1998 Volvo 610

Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins

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I like the AGMs. Very low internal discharge rate so you can just disconnect them and forget them. I had one in a vintage race car 10 or 12 years ago. It sat untouched for 2 plus years and started on the first turn of the switch.

 

Have had a pair in the fiver for 5 or 6 years. We rarely boondocks, maybe twice a year while we are on the road. They hold uno fine for the occasional overnight (with the fridge on gas.)

Dennis & Nancy
Tucson, AZ in winter, on the road in summer.

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(Replaced '05 smart first loaded in '06

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My Teton came with a residential fridge so it got 4 12v batteries. Mine are getting some age and swelling. It is damaging the sheetmetal compartment also. Would like a battery with no vents as agm. We are always unless traveling in a campground with hookups. Any recommendations? Do I really need 4?

"Always in a CG w/ hookups". Buy a pair of 6V batteries from Costco or Sam's Club (or Walmart). For under $200 you will be back in business. The 200 amp hours will work very well for traveling or one overnight stop w/o hookups.

 

When you decide to add solar and boondock a lot, then go with AGM. However when that time comes, give some serious thought to paying, the not hugely greater cost of Lithium, over 4 or 6 AGM's at that time.

Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G 
2020 Chevy Colorado Toad
San Antonio, TX

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Iffffffffffff I were needing to upgrade anyway and ifffffffffffffffff I did a lot of dry camping, Id sure consider AGM to reduce electrolyte and gas worries as long as my Solar Charge Controller and Smart 3/4 Stage Charger are AGM compatible. Whether or not its cost effective (Life Cycles and Amp Hours versus cost and longevity etc) depends on several factors, I'm thinking more along the lines of convenience here. Study and make an informed choice that's best for YOUR needs.

 

John T

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Here is my take, Glenn.

 

Given your work schedule and the fact that you will be neglecting the batteries then I think popping for the AGM makes some sense. You can do two of them. When you do the solar you will want to increase the capacity of the bank, and likely will not be able to include these two batteries in that bank. They may be too old by then (the batteries, not YOU :) ). Just so you know.

 

The upgrade of the truck charge line is a good thing, regardless. You are not going to get much charge from the truck. The physics of it are simply not in your favor. But for a daily travel between two hookup stops you will not have any trouble with the two batteries and upgraded charge line, ASSUMING you have an energy efficient refrigerator. You might want to put a Kill-o-watt on it and see what it uses. Some of the older refrigerators were pretty sorry in the energy dept.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

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Mine is the original 2003, likely 2002 model fridge. It likely not energy efficient. I have towed all day and my monitor just shows discharge, not percentage or voltage. It is in the "green" in short time once on hook ups. We just have 12v marine batteries, 27 group.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Glenn, if you want to know exactly what is going on with your batteries then you might want to put in a Trimetric. That will tell you lots about your DC usage patterns and how low you are drawing the battery bank (eg. how much you are stressing it). It will also be a step towards your solar installation....you will want a good battery monitor at some point in time. About $200 in parts.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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I'm no electrician but will toss in a couple of comments based on experience and recommendations by others. First, I bypassed the Magnum 2812 with the hot water heater and both ac / heatpumps. In my case not doing that originally blew out my AC board in the inverter X 2. Had to get a new inverter and install a subpanel so they only work on shore power or the truck mounted generator.

 

I was told that an AGM had less capacity then an equivalent sized wet cell.

 

Not had any issues with the batteries venting and causing corrosion inside the sheet metal generator compartment at the front of the trailer. Adequate venting may reduce that possibility.

 

In my case, there will be a charging circuit, along with adequate wiring coming from the truck alternator to the house batteries so they will stay charged during the driving time. My fridge is a residential. That way the batteries will be charged when arriving at the destination.

 

Some of this info is 3yrs+ old so things may have changed.

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