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(Yet another) New project


phoenix2013

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Subject of this thread, pinboxes. Yes the things that connect our rigs to our haulers and hitches, most time successfully. Anytime something is successful, working or correct that's not very interesting.

What's interesting when something is screwed up, installed by morons, or with ignorance of how it should be and not working in the best interest of the rig owner.

It's also interesting to me, because I get to fix these. I will have three examples of these and hopefully the readers will learn something from this.

 

Example 1

 

Done last week. Truck Volvo with ET Jr., fifth New Horizon Summit model (three axles), pinbox, Moryde with the anti-chucking option. Had the discussion with the owners at the Hutch Rally, fifth running quite low over the hitch. Weighing of the setup revealed that the front axles carries 6,000 lb, rear axle 4,000 lb. The owners brought the rig to southern Florida this week for "diagnosis" and surgery.

First we parked the rig in level spot and disconnected a truck keeping ET close to the pin box. Truck and ET aired up showed Super Binkley head to be at 47 inches, perfect and fifth being off level low.

Next we raised the fifth until it was level straight. It showed that the fifth (fifth's pin) was now 3 inches above the Binkley head. The Moryde box could not be lowered any lower, it was already bolted through the lowest set of mounting holes drilled. The southern Florida "surgeon" diagnosed that the Moryde box needed to grow a prosthesis of around 3 inches in it's height. First pin box removal, six 3/4 inch grade 8 bolts.

Electric impact had no effect, it was predicted so we switched to just purchased extra long breaker bar. (from Harbor Freight around the corner). One bolt let go, others would not budge, we tried harder. On second or third bolt the breaker bar snapped and drew blood. we returned the broken bar to HF and exchanged it for more robust one, returned to the "scene" with an additional tool, 5 foot long piece of black pipe.

5 Foot pipe on a breaker bar broke the remaining bolts loose in minutes. Next the pin box was delivered to my favorite welding shop for "surgery".

 

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Welding line was "V"ed on both sides and welded on both sides for full penetration.

 

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Before disassemble a line was drawn along the mounting line. Cardboard pattern was laid along that line and overlaid with wood.

 

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A 3/4 inch transfer punch hammered from underneath into the wood marked the locations of the existing holes. The pattern was then moved up perpendicularly (vertical reference lines were also drawn on the pin box and the cardboard to assure square "move up"). New location were marked in reverse in the transferred stipples with a punch 3 inches higher in the new welded on area.

Once the new markings were made the trusty old mag drill did the rest. Note also that the outside welds were ground smooth with a flapper wheel.

 

DSC_0042.JPG

 

Next we created a bit of "elevation" to help with hoisting the pin box into position, these things are heavy and awkward.

 

DSC_0043.JPG

 

Remember the six bolts with regular nuts, I figured these were put on with a 3/4 inch wrench and well stretched, not the place skimp and save. A set of grade 8 bolts was bought with one "improvement", grade 9 locknuts. Nine bucks from my local industrial supplier.

 

DSC_0044.JPG.

 

Impact and torque everything in place, life is good.

 

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The customer left with a nice level trailer. Oh and the real good news, which kind of dovetails with the other thread on weight and balance, he reweighed the individual axles and they are now even.

 

So what's my take on this whole thing. I fixed that and helped a customer on account that some imbecile installed an after market pin box that was not configured for this fifth and he didn't care about the fact that he made it ride 3 inches too low (below the industry standard of 47 inches). But that's RV Industry for you.

 

That's enough for one night, installments 2 and 3 (different issues) later.

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I don't know and I didn't ask the question, I'm pretty sure New Horizon had nothing to do with it. Yes, you are correct, the built in anti-chucking feature in the ET probably does lot more than that piddly shear rubber gizmo in the Moryde box. But that's a "battle" for another day, probably not worth pursuing.

The reason I said New Horizon didn't have anything to do with it is because example # 3 will deal with modification of a standard New Horizon box which has lot more slant to get the trailer to the standard 47 inches height. They would have known that the Moryde box is too flat and would make the trailer run too low.

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'Twas our rig. The Mor/ryde pinbox predated buying the Volvo. We bought the NH Summit in Junction City a year and a half ago, then pulled it with our F450 to Elkhart to get disc brakes. In route we noticed a lot of chucking with the TrailerSaver hitch, talked with Mor/ryde, they suggested their pinbox and we decided to give it a try, then proceeded on our way south.

 

The F450 had spacers under the hitch to provide better rail clearance plus Firestone airbags for leveling. The pin rode a little higher on the F450 than on the Volvo, so the Summit rode a little more level (and evenly on the axles).

 

When we moved to the Volvo HDT, we noticed right off the trailer was not riding level. We had New Horizons lower the Mor/ryde pin box as much as possible, but that wound up not solving the problem. We talked with Henry at the HDT rally last fall and he suggested that we try to find a different pinbox that would provide the additional height needed.

 

We eventually emailed Ken at New Horizon explaining the weight distribution on the axles and that the front of the trailer rode 3 inches lower than level when hitched. We asked if there was a pinbox that we could use to solve the problem and he responded, "There is no pin box that will do this for you. It will have to be done with either the hitch in the truck. Spacer under the hitch or something."

 

That's when we contacted Henry again to see if he could help. Yesterday we had BillR re-weigh our rig and we're very happy that the front axle now shows 5400, middle and rear axles both weigh in at 5200.

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Interesting. My Mobile Suites has the same pin box and my trailer rides level or seems so. My wheel weights are 4000 (refrigerator side), 3550, 3650, 3650 so think I'm in pretty good shape. I also spoke with Henry prior to the ET purchase about the MorRyde and he suggested trying it at least. Can't tell that it's caused a problem after 5 years. Bill, remind me and we will do some measurements at the ECR on my pin and hitch height. Would be interested in comparing results.

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Nice work and fix on the pin box Henry. We had the pleasure to weigh Bill and Judy's rig and confirm all is now near perfect. Certainly a nice change. The rig is level and good to go. Well worth the trip to the Port of St Lucie!

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Doesn't those rubber blocks wear out in that pin box setup? Asking since I never had one.

 

Moryde has been into shear rubber suspensions for years and it seems they understand this technology pretty good now. They utilize the same concept in this box. I don't think it can "eliminate" chucking given the limited space and the size of the shear block. But Moryde does not claim that, they will only say that the pin box only "diminishes" chucking forces.

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It really doesn't take much to drastically reduce chucking forces. If you all want to experience some "real" chucking, you need to ride in a LDT that is pulling a fully loaded 3-400 bu (24K lbs) grain wagon, using a rigid pin hitch (all the farmers on here will know exactly what I mean!) It can get so bad you wonder if its going to rip the hitch/bumper off the truck! Some years ago, I bought a "rubber cushion" hitch insert (see link). Very simple, just a rubber packing inside the 2" tube to provide a 1/2" or so of travel. It is unbelievable what just that little bit of give does to reduce the shock transmitted to the truck frame. It went from a jar that felt like your teeth were gonna fly out to a gentle surge feeling. I won't tow without it.

 

So, yes, I'm sure the "little" rubber cushioning in the Moryde hitch is probably quite effective

 

http://www.convert-a-ball.com/ballmounts.htm

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It really doesn't take much to drastically reduce chucking forces. If you all want to experience some "real" chucking, you need to ride in a LDT that is pulling a fully loaded 3-400 bu (24K lbs) grain wagon, using a rigid pin hitch (all the farmers on here will know exactly what I mean!) It can get so bad you wonder if its going to rip the hitch/bumper off the truck! Some years ago, I bought a "rubber cushion" hitch insert (see link). Very simple, just a rubber packing inside the 2" tube to provide a 1/2" or so of travel. It is unbelievable what just that little bit of give does to reduce the shock transmitted to the truck frame. I won't tow without it.

 

So, yes, I'm sure the little rubber cushioning in the Moryde hitch is probably quite effective

 

http://www.convert-a-ball.com/ballmounts.htm

 

:D:D we have a 12 ton wagon with a 1400 gal water tank that gets moved a bit with the won ton. Jeff - he speaks the truth! Me checking into that hitch Jeff!

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It really doesn't take much to drastically reduce chucking forces. <<snip>> I won't tow without it.

 

So, yes, I'm sure the "little" rubber cushioning in the Moryde hitch is probably quite effective

 

http://www.convert-a-ball.com/ballmounts.htm

Jeff's correct. I have that same hitch for pulling trailers with my little girly truck, and it works wonders.

 

We also have the Mor-Ryde snubber hitch thing, and I must say, it seems to work well.

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We did this test over our local piece of worn out highway with right angle cracks across the road that have a about a 3 inch depression a couple feet wide due to water getting into the road bed/frost action. These are about 60 to 80 feet apart.

 

Empty won ton truck on wagon springs is ka thump (jiggle) ka thump (jiggle) ka thump (jiggle) as you drive along.

 

Hook up C-Force tri axle toy mobile. Place a pint mason jar 1/2 full of water on the fold down arm rest/stowage console between the front seats. Drive 60mph down above road. Motion is no longer ka thump due to truck carrying weight. Now it is more like dip-dip CHUCK shove jerk dip-dip SHOVE chuck chuck dip-dip CHUCK CHUCK SHOVE dip-dip dip-dip CHUCK dip-dip chuck CHUCK JERK... (rock and roll)...

 

Tempest in the mason jar, even managed to slop some water out on to the console.

 

Change pin box to the new MorRyde

 

Mason jar motion is gentle rocking back and forth.

 

Rig motion is now dip-dip gentle chuck dip-dip gentle chuck dip-dip no chuck dip-dip....

 

The slider pucks in the MorRyde cleared the dust (as in the picture above) indicating around 3 inch travel fore and aft achieved.

 

Can enjoy a cuppa java in the cab without wearing it now... :D

 

IMHO you cannot have too much fore and aft damping pulling trailers...

 

Your results may vary.

 

Edit - we have an AirSafe coupler that has an air spring, hydraulic dampers, and dog bones (like an ET 5th wheel) and it noticeably dampens the chucking and shoving of a bumper tow trailer over the same busted road above.

 

How much does a load of won tons weigh? I always thought they were rather light unless they were filled with pork before frying.

 

:lol:

 

 

Sorry, couldn't resist, it has been one of those days.....

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Hi Phoenix,

 

Regarding breaking loose large bolts, a year ago I bought a Cheater Wrench:

http://www.cheaterwrench.com/

 

It was $154 at that time, but I see it has gone up to $204 now!

 

I've used it a few times, including loosening 19-mm bolts for the front cab suspension bushing brackets on the Volvo. It definitely worked great. One intended use is, of course, HD truck lug nuts.

 

Compared to long breaker bars, it takes less space, which is sometimes very helpful. It also takes less force, of course, due to the high ratio. It probably takes more time, as you need to rotate the input something like 65 revolutions to produce 1 revolution of the nut you're loosening. But of course generally within less than 1/4 turn any given nut becomes loose enough to switch to another, smaller, tool.

 

You do have to be a bit careful handling it due to its mass -- it feels really heavy for such a compact device. Also a third hand can definitely come in handy, although not absolutely needed.

 

There are cheaper versions that cost a LOT less than this "original" Cheater Wrench product; when I researched them I read very mixed reviews, whereas CheaterWrench.com seems to provide good customer service and a robust construction.

 

Some of the folks who were helping me at the ECR last April (2015) might remember using the CheaterWrench...

 

Pete

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How much does a load of won tons weigh? I always thought they were rather light unless they were filled with pork before frying.

 

:lol:

 

 

Sorry, couldn't resist, it has been one of those days.....

 

:lol: - can't say... rv weight police could be listening

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GeorgiaHybrid, on 14 Mar 2016 - 6:37 PM, said:snapback.png

 

How much does a load of won tons weigh? I always thought they were rather light unless they were filled with pork before frying.

 

:lol:

 

 

Sorry, couldn't resist, it has been one of those days.....

 

:lol: - can't say... rv weight police could be listening

 

How much do you wont....your wont-tons two weigh.......I could custom- reprogram my Weight & Balance live-data spreadsheet to get you past the RV Weight gestopo......you might want to "invest in a few cases of Dr. Pepper.....

 

Drive on.........(How many won-ton's .......make a t o n )

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  • 9 months later...

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