ARGO

Yeah, X-Aire was the last gasp for the fivers. I would have grabbed one, but I LOVE my dual tandems on our 03 KA. Very happy w/ ours, had it painted & many upgrades. Was at the Tampa rally a couple of years ago, asked the Newmar Big Chiefs what fiver they would buy today if no Newmars. Silence.......... Only downside to a Newmar fiver is that the MH owners made us feel like "trailer trash" at the rally. That's OK, "I've got friends in low places".

I altered the hinge height on my upper bunk so it swings down perfectly to form a backrest for the lower. Both bunks still usable separately. Lower bunk is one side mattress, other side carpet, & the safety net on the lower now forms a net for my Sibes.

Ever see the ad where the bulldog is pulling a Mack semi with the rope? Can be done, but also consider stopping it when you buy. Short wheelbase/light TV is a death wish.

IMHO, I think you are relying on the threads on the PVC connector. If you take it apart again, see if the threads on it are 'torn" or damaged. That PVC cant stand up to the torque a determined guy can put on a brass fitting. Snoop at the plbg supply & try to get a PVC to something else so you end up w/ brass male threads to the brass female. Can you pipe back to the pump with metal all the way?

And remember to check dates before you buy. RV tires age out faster than wear.

Wife is convinced dryer sheets keep them out.

Per Month ? Lots on Ebay for less, what's the diff?

When you go to get it reset, have the tech go over ALL the things that can be changed same time, like time to shut down after idle, etc. Same cost, lots of stuff you might not know can be changed. Usually 1 hr shop time.

I didn't know you could buy tats with food stamps.

I've had it up to 85 to pass some rectum, steady as a rock. Usually run in 10th 65MPH 1500RPM. Cummins N14 sweet spot supposedly 1425

My 635 is single, just did a pumpkin change on a non-locker. Had 3.73's, went a little too far w/ 3.08's. But w/ a .74 OD, it will run 55-65 in 9th & it's cool to pass someone at 65 & hit another gear alongside.............. I get hi 8's on reasonably flat road, rig weighs 38K.

I just bought in for 3 yrs ($43). We will go to Bonefish more than 3 times, discount 15% plus Carrabba's, outback, etc. I opt out or unsubscribe everything

Use somebody's VIN that has one, gotta be one on the forum

Two comments- 1 do not expect the block heater to work in 15 mins 2 In cold climates, NEVER open both cab doors at the same time.............

I might be able to get you the factory inside trim rings for a reasonable price + shpg

Should be easy. Just be sure the drain slots are down.

I added windows to my 635 using Fliner sleeper windows. They have a nice finished trip ring inside, but I had to make a "filler" for the gap. Pic available. Yours look great! One note- see where the drain holes are in the window slide channel. I turned mine 90 deg, so had to drill small holes for them to drain.

Yeah, and useful in emergencies but the paper is a little stiff...............

Rear floor is an especially prone area to rot, be real sure that is solid. Also, there's a pop-up forum you should ask these same questions. Be sure it has a title, not just a bill of sale unless your state will accept that.

Out of stock, but tks! Ordered what looks like it off Ebay, we'll see when it gets here. Ebay #( 361130458978 )

Stopped at an appliance part place today, part is "discontinued". Going to call another place today. Tks for the reply, part # is ULI 2579

OK, Uline ice maker in fiver is giving problems again. Diagnosed it, seems like faulty hi-temp limit switch. Of course, it's the size of a dime but Uline says "new ice mechanism" for a couple hundred. For a little hi temp button? Getting tired of "new ice mechanism" for every problem, works fine w/o the sensor in the circuit. OK, I know it's a safety thing, & I'm going to try to get one that fits for the right temp. But has anyone replaced the whole darn thing with something else? What fits?

Another trick (if you have a buzz box & are "adventurous") is to clamp the ground near the floor part, and stick the rod right smack on the bolt, hold it there for a few minutes. Will warm that bolt up right fine. Or "creative engineering 101", weld a nut on top of the stub by reaching inside the nut and arc'ing it to the top of the stub

Cut it off with a whiz-wheel and deal with the (now flush) bolt afterwards. Worst case scenario- leave it in there & drill a new hole nearby in the seat base & new seat..

Anchor babies causing the increase...............................