ARGO

Emailed them a couple of times, no reply. Not like Mark at all. Anybody in Retama Village can check on them? MUCH APPRECIATED!

I love my 03 KSWB, REAL 16" frame, tandem duals.

Anybody using anything any better than the batwing? I have a Jetpack but like OTA channels too.

2000 Volvo, N-14 @ 460 Autoshift .74 OD I get 8.9 on a good day here in the northeast. Fiver + Volvo =just under 40K. Note I changed the rear gears to 3.08 from 3.73.

The volcanoes put more crap in the air than every car on earth, maybe you can get God to stop them, huh?

The other consideration is always money. If the Ins Co pays out more, they can then file for a rate increase.

So on the billing issue, pls tell me why you can get a windshield replaced for $200 but they charge the ins co $400 if you go thru them?

I've got the Endurance tires on my fiver, 2 years now & very happy. But since my tires are the same size as 16" dually pickup tires, this is a disadvantage to me (tandem duals). After maybe 3-4 yrs, my tires were hardly worn, but age, etc. I used to be able to sell them to a dually pickup guy & get some $ back towards new. The Endurance tires are SPECIFICALLY trailer-only.

FYI- if you look at a few antique car sites, you used to find ad for people who claim they can get a title for almost anything, wash it thru a southern state. Try that.

In MD there are 2 types of salvage title depending on whether the damage exceeded the retail value or not. (A vehicle can be a "constructive Total" with damage less than the ACV & get the title returned with a visit to the State Police for an inspection). My suggestion is to contact a salvage yard in the state you wish to register in & ask these questions. They are up on these type of laws, and can give you straight poop. (Can I say "poop" on the forum? Admins have NO mercy)

We started out w/ a bumper pull, but now have a fiver. I'd suggest many of the popular brands for sale have "owner's groups" similar to on here. If you're looking at certain brands, explore them. Understand MANY brands have changed mfr's hands several times, and a particular "whatever 32" may have quality fall off a cliff at a certain production year. Caveat emptor!

Was ready to reply, but I read the thread & realize you guys are talking about ENGINES.

Yeah, try & find a place to turn them. They are so cheap for most applications shops just buy new.

Apparently not all slide toppers work like mine. The roller is on the outside edge of the slide, and sheds as it rolls "IN". Kind of like Gutter Guard or a conveyor belt. Very pleased w/ the sunscreen. It would not be hard to make your own out of that using the original topper as a pattern. Most "home" machines will run a stitch in 2 layers of sunscreen, and there is no place that there are 3 layers. The stuff I use is called "Pfifertex", and is available multiple online places. www.sailrite.com comes to mind. The roller is not nearly under as much pressure as the awning, but be careful. Cripes, I can make them for you if you remove & install.

There are several RV salvage yards in the US, like www.colawrv.com. I bought mine from Ebay & a local RV repair shop, piece by piece in some cases. I am a canvas fabricator on boats, so making the screen itself was easy. Look on Craigs, not only under RV parts but under "wanted". Some ads on there say will buy RV's, call them too for parts.

Slides are made to be rained on. I made mine from sunscreen material, no flop, no pool & keeps debris off.

As mentioned, they get a profit on selling financing. If you really wanna' p**s them off, cut your deal WITH financing, and when they give you the final bottom line then tell them "Nah, I have my own" & make them honor the figure.

The switch in the column or the lens/light outside?

Crack in the line from fridge drain to (supposedly) outside? Pour a little water in the bottom of the fridge & see if you can duplicate the problem.

Had a problem in MD. Some states like MD have a specific form to convert a vehicle to a "camper". In MD it is VR-95, asks you to certify 4 out of 7 RV "things" are in place, take the form in to MV and it's a done deal. Maybe your state also has a form like that.

Well, to make a fair comparison, we'd have to know how close or related YOUR two parts are.

Remember, that is the load ON the bridge at any given time. If it is a short bridge or culvert, you may be OK depending on how far apart your axles are.

Had somewhat the same problem. First check if it has a separate fuse in your panel. I solved mine by spraying the living crap out of every pivot point I could see several times/days with PBR rust buster. Once it frees up (with a little help from your hand) work it back & forth. Then buy white lithium spray can grease & lube it. That little motor is at mechanical DISadvantage at either end of it's travel. Once you get it to half way out, start working back & forth more each time. Good luck!

And for those little bubbles way out in the middle you can't get out- stab them with a pin at one end and work the air out.

Yeah, but it's way cool to pass a big HP Moho uphill at 65, & shift to 10th as you get next to him/her............