noteven

It could be the KENWORTH

Is this where hydraulics people go after they’ve finished designing twenty eleventeen ways to connect lines moving oil under pressure?

it should reduce the squinting of the eyesight in bright sun

I'm going to order a Smart Shunt for my vintage camper now that it is officially Chad and Glenn approved...

Hi David - I think the major paint manufacturers have technical staff on hand who would advise you on their product use. I know Duplicolor makes products for motorcycle fairing plastic parts -

edit... erased my blather that had nothing to do with smart cars...

I've seen folks state "insurance companies deny claims based on weight ratings ..." or similar statements. Can someone who has experienced this situation describe how it played out?

I heard it said one time when hand loading military rifle calibers to start with the original military design load as a baseline.

Fitzgeralds are no longer in the glider business. The EPA has phased out the new glider with an old emission level engine business completely I believe. Fitzgeralds are a Peterbilt dealer with 5 or 6 locations.

It’s looking this way Darryl

My 2007 Carriage C-Force toy hauler mobile has a large ABS plastic cover holding the insulation under the holding tanks. The cover is a pan shape with about 4" sides and a flange all round that it is fastened through. The cover has a removable section to access the drain valves and connections. This section is approx 36" long by 12" then rolls up to form the side of the pan about 4". So in cross section it is an L shape, 4" x 12-13". And there are holes in it for the drain line and valve rods etc. Anyhoo I was doing a pre trip inspection and wasn't I suprised to see the valves and plumbing looking back at me under there.... The service section of the big cover fell off somewheres on the last trip. The factory fastening method was self tapping screws through the main cover - not the most robust plus it is exposed to the windage underneath so if the front come loose or got hit with road debris (don't remember any) the cover would get loose and depart from the vehicle... Anyways - is there a company that sells these ABS underbody covers in their product line anyone knows of? I've got a DIY repair design in mind but the correct part would be a good find... Thannks

Nice work.

Those look cool ... The two piece canoe joined by bulkheads would work too.

Thanks for the info Chet, I'll be happy with a bad LED. My Hayes is the white ground wire version.

I heard a finance genius being interviewed on the radio in Canada the other day. He said governments have been "introducing XX trillion$ in new liquidity..." I sez to the guy I sez, "Oh so they are printing money which causes inflation..."

I'm waiting for when I get the "Super Genius"* award. * see: Wile E. Coyote

Ya Jim I'm going to connect a trailer and check it out. So what you're saying is battery voltage at the trailer brake pin on the tow vehicle at all times is normal? Why I got measuring volts is the red LED is inop. As you know it normally illuminates whenever there is a brake app whether a trailer is connected or not. When towing it varies to show how much gain is being applied. Mine shows nada right now.

Got the KW out of storage and my Hayes controller is having an issue. It was working last tow and batteries were disconnected while it was stored: - air actuator clicks normally when truck brakes are applied, manual lever moves on the controller. - the LED indicator lamp on the controller does not illuminate either with truck brake application or moving the lever manually. - there is constant battery voltage at the blue output to brakes wire at all times. It does not change when moving the manual lever. I have not connected it to a trailer - I assume the brakes will come on due to the constant volts?

Jay - one of my imaginary inventions is a dyno trailer - the lead trailer axle would be a drive axle with it's driveline connected to a dyno in the trailer or a set of Telma retarders. Controls in the truck cab. Add resistance as needed put a load on the engine. Portable. Works on flat land.

I like to be able to carry enough fuel that I don’t have Range Anxiety.

An inframed engine can have an initial break in done on a chassis dyno (or engine dyno) operated by someone who knows how to do pull downs with the dyno vs the run it to the redline to see how much power it can “make” for 5 seconds type run. Our shop used a chassis dyno and run engines to check for temperatures, leaks, and then 3 or 4 pull down runs gradually increasing loads to full ratings. What makes a really nice break in is if you can let the engine cool down between runs.

16v-747 pulling chisel plow demonstration Here be a demonstration video of what the 16V-747 was used for in it's day. As mentioned in the video it could be modified to pull a modern no till seeder but it would need the high flow hydraulic system and GPS guidance equipment installed.

Video link below. Interesting how turning and side to side distribution to the tow vehicle is set up. Setting up a weight distribution hitch

I'm in the check the driveline U joint alignment and splines camp. A mismounted tire will cause a "470 rpm" out of balance - the tire is running out of round in the vertical plane. A tire shop will dismount the tire and turn the wheel inside the tire and remount it and check the balance. But check the drivelines as mentioned by others....

This was supposed to be the year I made a down and back to the WCR but ... Anyways - "next year" - and Chad I promise to book early and get a site far away from everyone so my rig doesn't lower the Averaged Fleet Unit Value .... 🤣