rdickinson
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Everything posted by rdickinson
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On the truck side of the socket the running lite wire is brown. b/w 1 and 2 o'clock position. Check for power on the pins in the socket with a circuit tester and lights on. If no power there , locate the terminal block I mentioned and try on the trailer end of the brown wire. If power there then the problem is in the plug. Take it apart and clean connections. If not there try the truck side of the plug with the circuit tester. When you pull the plug out of the socket, look at the male plug end. On the end the pin holes are labelled clockwise from the top , W, Bk, Y, R, G, Br. Center is Blue. Socket is opposite, clockwise at 12 o'clock, W, Br, Gr, R, Y, Bk. Center is Blue. Running lites on the RV 7 pin connector is Green. On edit, contact Randy A or his friend Charlie. Randy tore his dash apart a year or more ago and will be able to help with the fuse/breaker end of things. Maybe Contact Henry as well. He was able to walk me thru the Jackalopee last year and I know little about all things electrical. A couple of mechanics had had at the Jack and got thing messed up.
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Doug, Under the cab of the truck there is a wiring loom tied to the drivers side frame rail. Roughly the same distance from the front as the commercial truck plug on the end of the green wire. There is a black multi wire connector plug. One piece clips into the other and there is a plastic lever that clips them both together. The lever clip wasn't holding the 2 halves together well enough so the trailer brake lites were not lighting up. https://www.google.ca/search?q=wiring+junction+connector&tbm=isch&source=hp&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjrwJnWt-DiAhUjilQKHR__DgYQ7Al6BAgAEA8&biw=1670&bih=777#imgrc=_O6eWy6rg2nOdM:&spf=1560221959416 When moving the lever, clip I could hear a breaker popping in the Jackalopee quite clearly. Nigel confirmed the click with the offending circuit. Email Nigel, he's still on the Island. I took a couple of pics with his camera so maybe he can up load them. Identify which wire is the one in question by testing the north end first then check the south end of the plug. This is the stock Volvo loom. I got two tie wraps about a foot long and cinched the 2 plug halves together from one end to the other and levered the tie wraps really tight with a pair of needle nose pliers.. It worked for me. Nigel wasn't much interested in sliding around on his back on the gravel under the truck, can't imagine why, hence the pics. As Henry said to me last year, start with the last part that works and work on down the line from there. Hope it works for you.
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Mine's a 2017 Smart loaded from the side. I did modify the placement of the ramps while loading and unloading to eliminate the two front chocks and saving 5+ minutes each way.
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A good example is the Tampa RV show where the dogs are in buggies being walked about like babies.
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Having read the news item, I'm wondering what assistance the dog could provide it's owner that would involve its teeth?? Muzzle the dog.
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. Too late.
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You will find this to be a 'good ole boys club'. When they have their feet put to the dire they circle the wagons and lash out like rabid dogs. The pack mentality takes over.
Watch out for Phil, I've met him personally. An OK guy until you get him on the warpath then all hell breaks loose. LARGE font in RED.
I don't have much to do with this bunch any more. The one topic they never deal with at any of their Rally's is a vehicle precheck or post trip check. I offered to do one a few years ago and got stomped on.
Have your radar on high gain and flamesuit ready.
Cheers
Roger
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Bang stick or a less potent relative. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=bang+stick&view=detail&mid=F2B3C811F3268A593181F2B3C811F3268A593181&FORM=VIRE https://www.fashionablecanes.com/92005.html
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I have a system similar to Mobile eye, camera, G force indicator plus other features. The biggest feature I was interested in at the time was the lane departure in case I wandered out of the lane BUT mine nd others do not work when there is no white line on either side for it to see. Also if you have the lane set for a certain width and the construction area has narrower lanes, it goes crazy and beeps at you all the time.
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Unless I've asked before, doesn't your homeowners insurance or renters insurance cover these costs? Secondly, I'm not a fan of this forum, I find most are self centered with Chad being a notable exception. Example, last October when Nigel fell off a cliff breaking his neck, his wife put out a request for help to drive and park or store their rig for a few months. I live 12 hrs away and was the only one to volunteer help. So does that mean that there is no-one who lives within a 500 mile radius of Prosser Washington who could get off their lazy ass to help...Cobb being one. Frankly most of them make me sick. Some have more money to burn than you or I will ever make. DT being one. One guy had a new truck a couple of years back adding super singles at a huge expense then dumped the truck for an ever bigger one with an oversized generator. If you look at the profile, the truck is so low behind the cab he will high center going over railway tracks.
I can barely afford to make these 4-5 month disaster response trips to your country fixing houses damaged by floods, fires, tornados and hurricanes costing me loss of wages and conservatively 3-4k US in diesel adding up to 10k$ Canadian funds. At the rate of destruction the USA will fall further behind each year, you will Never catch up. The disasters leave a trail of misery, hopelessness, child and family abandonment, drug and alcohol abuse plus a host of other wonderful issues society has to offer. In over 22 years, I've seen it all.
There is a saying, 'There is no cause than helping your fellow man'....really? When have any of these jokers recently got off their butts to help. Yes I know some have done tours in Vietnam...Charlie and Cobb being 2. The closest I can come is having done Marine Search and rescue for 5 yrs.
That last topic I did on Generator sizing was a test to see what kind of response it would get. 7 or 8 were bullshit, glad handing, slapping on the back by the good ole' boys. Nothing relevant to my question.
Look at all the stupid topics and even more irrelevant responses and stack them up against your rental being trashed. My best guess your wife was in tears and your blood was boiling plus you probably lost some sleep over it....I would have.
There is tremendous skills within this group. From my standpoint it is mostly wasted on self serving agendas.
Re your case, I've told you what I think and stand by it, BUT, I have also rented and know the problems you and your wife face and you may not have the skills to affect repairs yourself, I can, this is what I do for 4-5 months. Had this last job not cropped up and had there been more time between it and the next one coming up in a couple of weeks, I'd offer to do the repairs for nothing...just materials. It would give you hope and that is most important to those traumatized by disasters of any type. Yours fall into that category.
I'm sorry for the damage to your house. I wish I was closer or had the time but at my age gigs that pay 5 - 8k a month take home are scarce.
I'm not after a response. This bunch pretty much reviles me.
Roger
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https://www.kijiji.ca/b-ontario/onan-generator/page-4/k0l9004
Can you take a look at my post on Generators plz.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks
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Hi, still after the Maxbrake unit??. It works. $100 or best offer, you get right of first refusal. I can mail it to you once I get into the US during the last week of the month...from the Americus area.
Regards
Roger
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With a Teflon disc, my TS hitch jaws wouldn't close around the pin of my Travel Supreme. I wasn't able to find a thinner one. Anything thin enough would be torn up by the wt of the hitch and the twisting while turning.
For 10 bucks or so, it's worth a try. If 3/16" is a shade thick, you may be able to run it thru a thickness planer. The Teflon or plastic won't damage the cutters. I think 1/8" would be as thin as you could go without it getting destroyed by the hitch weight and turning.
It would be worth a try to at least eliminate greasing the plate and inevitably transferring to clothes.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Lippert-Components/LC286160.html
This one is 3/16", the thinnest I've found. Others go up to .6"
With any plate, I'd be even more vigilant about making sure the jaws lock. I'd hate to make UTubes epic failures.
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My IR gun sits in the door as well.
The Talon system has a color monitor, a liitle bigger than the older system. Batteries are replaceable for less than 8$ a piece.
My batteries lasted less than 2 years. Some were dead and others not so great.
Spoke to Henry, he figures the problem is NOT the Jackaloppee but in the EZ Connector connection. It's the Magnetic connector from truck to trailer which replaced the standard 7 pin connector.
Something may be backfeeding. I'm no gearhead so Arnie is looking at it when he can.
Am looking into it. I even got the one with the gold plated terminals.
Had bearings checked and all hat to be replaced. Outfit in Florida did a lousy job. No grease in the races on one side and loose bearings on the other which chewed things up. Looks like 2 people worked on the trailer...neither one of them much good. Failure was imminent.
Suggest you call Henry, he's in New Hampshire.. 603 382 6500, he will walk thru troubleshooting.
Cheers
Roger
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Hi,
Am getting some work done on the rig. Where was the plumbing going to be on my dash for the hand lever for the brakes going to be plumbed in?...Wasn't it to get spliced into the yellow push knob circuit.
I have the Maxbrake controller but have no way of knowing whether it is applying brakes or not. There is no indicator that is visible.. I'd like to move the controller . It's down by my left knee and that means taking my eye off the road to squint at some dim blue screen.
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2". Cage had to be enlarged. 450 tires were 22" diameter and 453's were 24". Shown here is 450. Extension plates for chocks to accommodate longer 453. Slots allow for flexibility of placement including twisting if car is loaded slightly crooked. Extensions to A frame to prevent both pulleys from hitting. A frame needed to be stood off the truck more. This is the older shorter car. Even with a 2x6 to space the frame out more, it was still an issue. There was plenty of Kevlar cable to go to a double line pull. It is slower but less jerky. The new car has a hitch in which I put a snatch block....A marine pulley. Cable goes thru the pulley on the car, and back to the A frame. 1" thick OSB boards to allow car to go over the deck edge without ripping off underbody parts. Same can be accomplished by blocking up the dirt end of the ramps by 2-3" and putting a pce of angle iron in the ramp hinge.
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451's only. Absolutely not the 453. I recall a 453 someone towed behind their MH. It was apart on the shop floor. Trans was trashed. I saw it myself when the hitch was being installed. Greg said "no tow on" standards. it is a $1400 operation to get the 451 towable with tow bar plus mechanical modifications. He is not aware of any special modifications for the US market which would make a difference.
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I will try to drop by the local Service dept at Three Point Motors in Victoria, I can walk in and talk directly to The Service manager, Service writer and Sean the Parts manager, he is the gent who made my hitch. They will have the latest info. I'll also ask if there is a difference b/w Canadian models and US models...there could be some differences, but I don't know. Will post what I find or links that are current. My 17 is running fine. They replace the drivers seat belt that wasn't retracting and a cable on the rear lower part of the hatch. Oil change at about 10k miles, next one in another 10k miles. Yes, I know we are metric up here but I hate metric so set instruments for miles. We have the highest Smart car to people ratio anywhere.
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Dometic Rooftop AC throwing breaker
rdickinson replied to yourpcgeek49's topic in Technical Tips and Tricks
Of what? -
Dometic Rooftop AC throwing breaker
rdickinson replied to yourpcgeek49's topic in Technical Tips and Tricks
I find myself less inclined to participate in or on this forum for the same reason others have stated. Dead wrong information. In other cases I ask a question which is important to me, even directing it to those I know have the experience in that very topic but get no response. Lastly when someone has a problem which I have had myself perhaps more than once and I go to the trouble to post a step by step response even providing the names of someone in their immediate area who repaired it for me, they keep asking the same question and getting absolutely wrong answers. It seems sometimes topics of value get poor if any responses and absolutely childish and moronic topics drag on forever. Re the current post, I had the same problem in Feb, breaker would blow sometimes then it wouldn't cool. It pulled 29 amps and everyone was off the mark. The Dometic hot line identified the issue and the unit was replaced by a hotshot tech who wired it wrong. It cost another 350$ to get it rewired correctly. Never mind asking the AC questions here, call Dometic and ask them, THEY are the experts. And don't let some joker sell you a 7 yr old discontinued unit which happened in my case. Dometic could tell by the serial #. It still works ok. Lastly, off topic re putting a hitch on the new 2017 Smarts, It can be done, I did it and have pics. There are adequate fixing points at the rear in spite of what the so called experts say. Mine was done by a Machinist/ Parts Manager at the Smart car dealer in Victoria. I have for the most part moved on, finding little value here. -
(Not HDT related) Laying Laminate flooring (COMPLETED)
rdickinson replied to Brad & Jacolyn's topic in HDT
I used commercial grade tiles in the kitchen and glued them down with epoxy, not the regular flooring adhesive. The adhesive was recommended by the flooring distributor. The regular flooring adhesive will curl inside the cabinets against the wall. The big swings in temps in Calgary from over 100f to 35 below don't help. -
Do you have water filters in line? Are they plugged also do you have a pressure regulator at the cg tap. Mine had the mesh obstructed.
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I pack what I can get away with going thru the border. US Customs does not like us coming thru with tools. Basically my Veto Service bag, skillsaw, various prybars, drill and impact, 2 line laser, Multitool. My 3 Stabilla levels, Kneepro kneepads, ear defenders, various gloves. All that is needed to work on cleaning up messes on volunteer jobs.
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I had to replace the circuit board on mine a couple of months ago. I have some pics if you think they may be helpful. A relay froze and fried.
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I'd clean it out with a disinfectant, bleach or something similar. Shockwave is what we use to kill mould on disasters. Then if you want pull the hatch and molding then paint inside with Kilz. We use it to seal walls after a fire/smoke damage.
It isn't serious, just icky when wet.
