rdickinson

https://www.cheaterwrench.com/how-it-works/ I think a member posted this a year or 2 ago. It's been saved in Favourites. I like the idea of being able to retorque the nuts if you label their location on the wheel. One of the bigger battery drills or impact drivers could probably handle it.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/voltage-drop-calculator

10" ramps? I thought the standard length was 12'. Do you block the ground end up? Even with 12 ramps and angle iron in the hinge the underbelly of the car comes pretty close to the deck edge. The 10' ramps would be steeper and the car underbelly even closer. Before shifting the ramps to the current location eliminating surface bolts and loading on a level surface, the underbelly had less than 1/2" clearance. And that's with 12' ramps.

I've been thru this several times. There is max 700 lbs pull if you single line it at the angle the ramps put the car at. If you double line it, the pull is half of that. Single lining it is jerky. Going thru a block on the trailer hitch makes the pull a lot smoother and you have more time to make minor corrections on the way up the ramp. "if you are loading a Smart it should never use that much as your under 2000 lbs if you use a snatch block to double the line it will pull half as fast and half as hard." Exactly

Anderson plugs for connectors. Used on wreckers, forklifts and I use them to get power from rear of the truck to charge trailer batteries. My winch is in a compartment below the A frame. A single arm made beefy enough would work fine. https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/p/WWG3BY23?gclid=CjwKCAiApOvwBRBUEiwAcZGdGF6MbgjpJs_uBNRPiAh91UsYXrzpkGNaYIkFKvmvtjmix9juY-MFfBoC8r0QAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAiApOvwBRBUEiwAcZGdGF6MbgjpJs_uBNRPiAh91UsYXrzpkGNaYIkFKvmvtjmix9juY-MFfBoC8r0QAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3645!3!303439922072!!!g!542982168902!

You can get 2 from the rear, I've done it and it's plenty strong. Instead of me posting them again send me your e-mail and I'll send them plus explanations.

Are you wanting pull points on the front or back?

Putting a piece of 1/8" angle iron in the ramp hinge will reduce the breakover angle by about 2.5". Putting a couple of 2x8 or 10's under the dirt end of the ramps will reduce it even more. Not all Smarts have the same ground clearance. Plastic underbody parts fastened on by plastic fasteners get ripped off if caught on bolts fastening the ramps to the deck, that's why I don't bolt them to the top of the deck but pin them thru the side of the truck body. They are just as secure. I have an A frame fitting into a couple of receivers on the passengers side of the truck deck, 2 ton Warn winch is in the compartment below. Kevlar cable runs across the deck thru a pulley on a receiver at the rear of the car and returns to the A frame, fastened with a load bearing Carabiner. The idea is to reduce the jerkiness of the winch and slow down the winching process to allow for minor corrections while car is on the way up. Crank down the window and you can turn the steering wheel part way up, after that is too high, you can twist the front wheel for minor adjustments. Try to load it square or perpendicular to the sides of the truck deck. Pics of this whole process have been posted before. Items have been modified over the years to speed the process up, eliminate injury, and reduce the chance of damaging the car, hence reducing the chances of showing up on 'Fail Army' or UTubes epic failures. One more thing, DO NOT let anyone help you or talk to you during the loading and unloading process. If you miss a step....mistakes can be expensive or painful. I sometimes go to the back 40 of a park to load and unload. I have tons of pics of the whole evolutionary process.

Any charity that helps others is worthwhile. We all have different interests and skills. Mine happens to be Disasters. Cheers.

I know the Habitat contact so that doesn't surprise me. I've no contact with the Red Cross or Escapees. There is one you have to join and I didn't qualify. Have you had any construction experience? Have you done any teaching in one form or another? What did you do prior to retirement? Would your handicap allow you to work in a re store assisting customers? I'm hedging around being politically correct here so bear with me. I install and assemble kitchen, wire closet shelving, baseboard and trim, install doors, laminate flooring, exterior Hardiplank. So cabinet doors need to come off, handles installed both on kitchen cabinets and interior and exterior doors, baseboard trim cut, nail holes and joints filled, cabinets cleaned out, crud wiped of the shelf edging left by the bander, screw holes capped, divots and touch-ups done. Colored putty sticks and a rag with solvent to remove the excess and 901 white Seamfill on the edges of white cabinet shelving. Kinda like a small toothpaste tube. If a chop saw was set at an accessible level, If I showed you how to operate it safely could you do cutting? One of the few times I use a hammer is for snapping banding on a cardboard box containing Home Depot or Lowes cabinets. Mostly I use a small prybar to level things and shim then screw them to the wall or each other. Sometimes it isn't what you can do, it is that there is a presence on the job which give the people hope. Even if it is just sweeping or tidying up. Let me know what are your limitations?? Roger

I'm referring actively working on Disaster Response not at a State Park. There is no shortage of Volunteer organizations but of the people who volunteer with them. I've seen a whole 2 week build cycle canceled because no one signed up. Houses gutted by the willing and left for long periods of time with no HVAC. Walls twist, floors heave, rodents and pests move in. Owners getting ripped off by unscrupulous individuals. It's the people shortage not the Association shortage or the money runs out. Driven thru Panama City or Tallahassee lately? How about N Carolina or Baton Rouge? 140,000 houses in Baton Rouge impacted by floods, let alone small businesses. I'm not referring to only the RV set but everyone in general. There is enough money floating around to be able to find Chad some tools or a pickup or a trailer or some odds and sods of building materials.

Here's a message from one, their contact info is in there. The Fuller group, I'm working on it. Shipping may make it not worthwhile but if there is an affiliate close enough, they may be prepared to deliver them. It could also be an opportunity to get involved in volunteering. The USA has no shortage of damage from floods, fires, hurricanes and tornadoes. My thoughts are you will never catch up or keep up. It's too bad Volunteering is not high on peoples list of things to do. There are a number of very skilled people on this form. Heck, even those with no skills but a willingness to learn or take direction would be welcome. Chad Detwiler 405-698-8610 Recovering Oklahomans After Disaster Join Our Facebook

From time to time there are posts here of people cleaning out the house in preparation to going full time. It dawned on me that most will have gardening implements of all descriptions as well as some construction related tools powered as well as non powered. There are a host of Disaster Response groups doing good around the Continent. Habitat and MDS are generally fairly well outfitted but there are a couple I know who are in desperate need of tools and any supplies you may want to clear out. Part box of nails or staples, a little bit of this and that. Whatever you have they need desperately. The Fuller Group in Panama City is one and Chads bunch the Recovering Oklahomans is another. There are other groups scattered around hopefully close enough to make this a doable option. I can provide contact info. I wish I could do more but these DR trips are enormously expensive. 1$K diesel each way for starters, let alone 1k for the ferry and 1300 for travel insurance for 4 months. Cheers.

Fire comes to mind, one of Randy's many incidents. The topic comes up and then flames out by page 2. Fire entrapment is another. Wildland Fire fighting has a course on this very topic, S 185. Remember Paradise and the Wildland fire fighters who burnt some years ago. Mac McCoy put on a Coldfire demo at a Life on Wheels in Moscow Idaho. Urban Interface fire fighters are spraying houses with this type of product. It stays where it makes contact. The story is he is quite ill as a result of being exposed to some of these products. There are new non toxic, water based products on the market. They will stick to a vertical surface which will smother the fire and at the same time draw heat from the surface so thereby knocking 2 legs out of the fire triangle, oxygen and heat. I'll post links to 2 similar products, both are a good product, both on UTube. https://geltechsolutions.com/fireice/about-fireice/ https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=fireaide&&view=detail&mid=601B7675597CDC285F25601B7675597CDC285F25&rvsmid=5AF4F5199C1EBA7236D45AF4F5199C1EBA7236D4&FORM=VDQVAP The 2.5 gallon one can be reloaded by anyone and is charged with about 120 - 150 lbs of air from an ordinary compressor or Dive shop. One of these for the truck. I'll get a couple of the 20 0z aerosols, one for the kitchen and the other for the bunk area. I don't want to be trapped by a fire and not be able to get to the door. The Fire gel would be handy for welders, spray it on a surface adjacent to the one being welded the adjacent surface won't heat up or burn. Spray it on your hand and put a butane torch to it and you won't feel the heat. New technology. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Anther topic is fire entrapment and how to avoid it. The bedroom window is the official escape method but there needs to be a better plan. Firstly how many are physically able to fit thru the window? Let alone a second person. All in 90 seconds or less. How are you going to go thru, face up, feet first or face down feet first. Face up and you could hyperextend your back, face down and we are all loathe to put our feet where we can't feel bottom. Head first?? and land on what? Are you going out barefoot? Where are your shoes or slippers? Personally, I think another option would be to get a battery skillsaw or grinder to cut a hole in the front nosecone, then slide down the outside using the closet shelf as something to hold onto while getting ready to drop or slide. The Crossfield FD has both paid and volunteer members. My best guess is they would jump all over an opportunity to do some kind of joint training with RVers. Perhaps using flashpans and time X'd fire extinguishers, Co2, dry chem and maybe Fire ice or the Compressed foam. The last 2 would be able to be refilled by anyone with an air source. Learn the PASS technique, point, aim, squeeze and sweep. ……………..……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. Then there is the old Maxbrake system I replaced with Direclink. The old system is in the storage shed. Someone was after it but didn't respond sot there it sits. I can mail or ship it to the RV Park at Deer Run or? in advance of the Rally. Lastly, there are Disaster Response outfits needing all types of tools so if there are those amongst you upgrading to cordless or have other construction related tools and implements, The Fuller group in Panama City as well as the OKVOAD (Oklahoma Voluntary Organizations Active in Disaster) or volunteer@disasterroad.org <volunteer@disasterroad.org>; Chad is in a real jam and could use anything you could provide.

I've been those routes and variations of when heading south from Calgary when I lived there. What I will tell you is you are dealing with Winter mountain driving. Weather is the major player in this equation. Snow is no place to be when pulling, trust me I've been there but only once. Temps drop 3.5 degrees f for every 1000 ft of altitude gained. It's called standard lapse rate. This from flying days. You need a minimum 5 day weather window to get from GF to a place south far enough to get into the mitigating effect of the ocean which is generally between 100 and 200 miles from the coast. If you are on the windward or west side of the mtns you can expect rain then sleet, freezing rain then snow as you climb. There may be an indicator on your dash which says 'road icing conditions' or something like that. Not a good place to be, the road not the dash. In those weather conditions you want to be on the East side, Lee side which puts you in a rain shadow or drier side. If you start to descend in elevation, temps rise and air gets drier...to a point. If that's the case, bolt for Salina Kansas then South to OKC. The hiway East will have sun on it all day as short as it is, you will be in lower elevations and your wife will have sun on her right all day.. Bridges and overpasses are a big danger as they freeze before the roads do 'cus wind can blow above and below freezing the deck. I hate the decks 'cus the truck bangs as it goes on and comes off the deck. Heading south into Las Vegas once the temps rose over 20f, not hot but at least above freezing but LV puts you heading almost West. GF WX tanks this next week and for the week after is at or below freezing...I checked. Daylight is short this time of year and getting shorter. Your area roughly 8 am sunrise and 4:30 pm sunset, a bit better as you get further south. I checked that as well. That's going to be less than 8hrs daylight driving, nic pitstops and probably 1 fuel stop a day in there 'cus you will have at least 2 x 100's or 2 x 150's for fuel. Your rig may be winterized by now, if so I'd Motel it on the route South. Probably not many if any RV parks open anyway. I like the Super 8's and Best Westerns' , early free breakfast and you can load your pockets with boiled eggs, muffins, yogurt and don't forget sausages for the dog. If you make waffles don't forget to spray it with that release stuff, kinda like cooking silicone. If you don't, the waffles will stick and the waffle police will b***h you out. Kinda like Phil on a bad day.....That's every day. Have them call ahead to see if you can park close enough to a building to run a cord out for the block heater if you have one. Generally, I have found in driving thru the Rockies, it takes 3 days for the roads to get back to bare and dry after a 'Weather Event" that is if another isn't right behind it. Give a minimum 5 second spacing between you and who or whatever is in front...that's in good wx, 7 or more in poor conditions. Also put on your 4 ways and use headlites all the time. No 'one wants to see you or anyone else wrecked on the side of the road. I saw 2 completely demolished RV's on I 10 West of Panama City mid October. So check the weather, check the weather, check the weather. You don't have to push it and have to make the next stop. Lots of Private pilots have been killed 'cus they 'Have to get home".....and didn't. Everyone will have suggestions. Exercise an abundance of caution and have a safe trip.

Thanks, you were not off topic. I've researched it and what you say is more than likely the case. The truck is stored not far from the trailer but on an incline side to side, hence the problem. I'll keep the current caps on but when travelling will switch over to the locked caps. I'm thinking there may be some kind of electrical solenoid switch that would open when the ignition is activated or the battery switch turned on. I'll see what happens on the next trip. Thanks again.

Does the fuel return system work when the truck is parked and not running?

I had a locking fuel cap on my old IH 4700 but then the truck was on a side to side slant the low tank filled up and leaked diesel. Do the ones for the Volvo do t he same. I have no crossfeed shut off.

With my deck, there isn't room to install chains. I'd rather go to the On Spot drop down chains or something similar. They are on UTube. This is where the mind set of a pilot kicks in. The saying goes like this, "Better to use your superior intelligence to keep you out of situations where you need to use your superior skills"....or something like that. More private pilots get killed trying to get home when really they don't. Living in Calgary, I found that the main roads were generally driveable 3 days after a weather event.

D&R is correct, you decrease the angle at the deck end but increases it at the dirt end. I generally put some 2x8 material under the dirt end to raise everything up and decrease the ramp end even more. Also you may not be on level ground...the passengers side slopes away from the drivers side which works against you. This helps as well as leaving the A frame in to stop the car from rolling off the other side. The chocks should stop it but I like the insurance. It's un nerving to have the car come up on the deck then start rolling toward the other side. Not all Smarts have the same clearance and the underbody parts are just held on with plastic clips which can be ripped off pretty easily. As it has been said, it is all about mitigating risk. As mentioned before, there was the original way of doing it and modifications done since to make things easier. I have pics of all this or these as well. It will take the guessing out of the procedure. Others have ideas as well, not to say mine is the only way. let me know if you want more plus the explanations.

Dan, this is targeted for you. After a week of monsoon weather her in Victoria, here are some pics with an explanation. I can provide more pics and a more in depth explanation if you want. It may be better to send them thru regular mail or PM if that will work. Pics will gobble up a lot of space and people will complain. Strap or space with tape measure to give reference Bolted to side of truck Plan view also location of old and new chock footprints Angle iron used in the hinge, pin plus wireless remote for 2 ton Warn winch. Pin thru spacer Next 2 show angle iron fastened to bottom of ramp deck plate. Ramp on deck Ramp with angle iron in the hinge. It raises rt side of ramp by about 2.5" Next 2 show the hinge pin trimmed back, space was tight. Aircraft cable and heatshrink to pull ramps out without pinching your fingers. Also put plastic under ramps to reduce stickiness. Ramps weigh 58# each as I recall. Load binder corner to eliminate the Kevlar cable from rubbing on the deck for the first 2-3 ft going up the ramp. Tire cage jammed into a stuff bag, they don't wrap neatly and I don't have patience to mess around trying. I have other pics showing different elements of the process if you want then or more info let me know. Everything was done for a reason Last 3 are of the hitch done 3 yrs ago. I really get weary of those saying it can't be done or there isn't adequate backing when clearly there is. The only thing different I'd do re the hitch is round off the outside corners because they came very close to the inside of the bumpers

I replaced my shifter because of me not being able to hit the little button on the side to bump it up or down. My r thumb has a pin in it and will not bend, my not to distant relatives in the trees have the same issue. The new shifter cost me 1500 Canadian about 3 yrs ago. I pitched the old one, the guy who wanted it changed his mind and disappeared from the forum.

I have my CDL so I'm not in the know about that and not heard anything from ICBC. I see poor driving all the time by HDT's license or no license.