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Oil sample results...decode help needed


trimster

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I've had 2 oil samples done on my truck. Once before buying it and the last one a few weeks back. Took them to the same place and they combined the reports. Very nice for seeing trends I think. There's a warning on this last one. Need help from anyone who knows what this means.

 

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Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

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Can you verify that you're using 10W30 weight earl?

Viscosity can be down in one test and up in the next so it could be a factor of temperature control during testing.  There is an ASTM standard for testing but it isn't always followed.  Hopefully, you still have some of that old oil.  I'd test again with Blackstone and see what you've got.  I'd be concerned but it surely isn't time to start digging into your engine.  

Edited by spindrift

2012 F350 KR CC DRW w/ some stuff
2019 Arctic Fox 32-5M
Cindy and Tom, Kasey and Maggie (our Newfie and Berner)
Oh...I forgot the five kids.

 

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According to the receipt they put in Lucas 15-40 oil.

I'll run another test in a couple of months and see if it's a trend.

Thanks all.

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

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I would do another test with a different company soon. Just to compare and verify. Better to catch it early than wait and have more damage done if there is in fact fuel leaking into the oil.

Have you smelled the oil? If there is a high concentration of fuel in it it may have a stronger smell of fuel. 

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My first oil test also said I had an abnormally high level of fuel in my oil.  But in my case, the cause was excessive idling. 

Diesel fuel evaporates much quicker from hot oil than it does from warm oil.  If most of your time is idling (even high idling), fuel will gradually build up in your oil.

Volvo 770, New Horizons Majestic and an upcoming Smart car

 

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Fortuitous meeting in the RV park here in Thermopolus, Wy. The guy next to us is a 25 yr Volvo wrench turner for a dealership in Michigan. His take: great possibility that it's an injector....but, run it a couple of thousand miles and do another oil sample. Send it to the lab you (I) used and to another lab for a second opinion. Then wait another 1000 miles and do it again. See if there's a trend.

He felt strongly, knowing injectors on D13's are not the longest lasting, that it might be caused by an injector but symptomatic of a lack of use.

He said their process it to put a die in the fuel...run the motor...then pull the valve cover and UV the inside and see where the die/leak is. He also suggested to bite the bullet and replace all while in there.

Question... are injectors a DIY project? I built drag cars so wrench turning is not a problem. Age and climbing around on that beast might warrant some Advil however.

UPDATE: just found a video on how to do the injectors and cups. Special tools alone are $1700. Woowza. That's 10 hrs of shop labor. Now sure what this job books at for labor.

 

Edited by trimster

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Now have around 2k miles since oil change. Here's a photo of the dipstick...

TqVLbQvl.jpg

What I am concerned about is A: the oil looks thin and less dirty than I expected.  And B: it goes way above the full mark in the dipstick.

Could this be a sign that I have a leaking injector?

If it's really this full, what do I need to do at this point?

I'm going to check the oil level in the morning after it has set for the night.

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

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Always pull the dip stick then wipe it off and check it again especially if it's been running. If it's that much over full you have a problem. 

Farmer, Trucker, Equipment operator, Mechanic

Quando omni flunkus moritati-When all else fails, play dead
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.

 

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57 minutes ago, jenandjon said:

Always pull the dip stick then wipe it off and check it again especially if it's been running. If it's that much over full you have a problem. 

That's the third pull and wipe. 

I'll be checking it again in a few minutes. Just woke up. Need a cup of Joe first.

If it reads that high again, my plan is to:

- locate some tubing and siphon it down.

- add some new oil.

- billings, mt. is 60 miles away. Run in there and have the oil changed.

- then beat-feet the 500 miles back to Salt Lake. I'm concerned about getting repairs/service in Billings. 

We're a month into our 3 month trip. This sucks big time.

Edited by trimster

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

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Does the oil smell like fuel?  if you check first thing before firing up, no need to wipe the stick.  Repeated checking of the oil draws oil up the tube and gives false readings.  To prove that, look at both sides of the stick,  Is the level exactly the same?

Trivia time.  It's called a "bayonet gauge".

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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3 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Does the oil smell like fuel?  if you check first thing before firing up, no need to wipe the stick.  Repeated checking of the oil draws oil up the tube and gives false readings.  To prove that, look at both sides of the stick,  Is the level exactly the same?

Trivia time.  It's called a "bayonet gauge".

Just checked the dipstick again. Whew... it's just an inch over the full mark. I do have a problem but it's not as bad as it appeared at first.

So, somewhat over 2000 miles since the oil change and it's up an inch on the 'Bayonet gauge' (love the trivia by the way). I have 1200 miles left in our trip. Decisions, decisions.

I can get the oil changed in Billings and continue on with the trip (1200 miles remaining) knowing what I am up against. OR...do the oil change in Billings and head directly home...578 miles.

Thoughts and suggestions needed.

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

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Robert, I am so sorry that this is happening in the middle of your vacation. 

You either have fuel or water getting into the oil.  One inch on the dipstick is significant. 

I would take it to Tri State Truck & Equipment in Billings and have them determine what is causing your problem.  Then you can make the decision of having them make the repair or just change the oil and drive home. 

Either way, you do not want to put too many miles on the engine.  Water or fuel in the oil is not a good lubricant.

You must determine what is causing the problem and then you can make a decision.

 

2001 Freightliner FL70, Cat 3126b 300hp, 860 lb/ft, 6 speed manual Eaton/Fuller

Motorhome body by Transport Designs (37 ft overall)

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3 minutes ago, usbusin said:

Robert, I am so sorry that this is happening in the middle of your vacation. 

You either have fuel or water getting into the oil.  One inch on the dipstick is significant. 

I would take it to Tri State Truck & Equipment in Billings and have them determine what is causing your problem.  Then you can make the decision of having them make the repair or just change the oil and drive home. 

Either way, you do not want to put too many miles on the engine.  Water or fuel in the oil is not a good lubricant.

You must determine what is causing the problem and then you can make a decision.

 

Wouldn't water create a gray foam? Discoloration of the oil?

I don't see that.

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

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Yes, you are correct.  It would look milky and emulsified if it was water. 

Still, if it were mine, I'd want to determine what is causing the fuel getting into the oil before I drove too many more miles.  

Do you feel more comfortable with the repair shops at home?  Do you know the reputation of Tri State?  

2001 Freightliner FL70, Cat 3126b 300hp, 860 lb/ft, 6 speed manual Eaton/Fuller

Motorhome body by Transport Designs (37 ft overall)

Motorhome Specs and Pictures

Our Music Ministry

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I'd check out the shop suggested above, and if they seem reputable, have them look at it and give you an estimate on repair.  It likely will cost no more for the repair in Billings, and you don't have to worry about the chance of harming the engine by driving it.  Adjust plans as required.

Back to my first question, does the oil smell like fuel?  And, is the truck sitting level?  A little out of level can make quite a difference on the stick.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Bit out of level. Towards the drivers side.

My decision was to change the oil and leave it a few quarts low.

850 miles to home. No rv spots available in Billings for the required 3 weeks to get injectors replaced.

 

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

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2 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Back to my first question, does the oil smell like fuel?

???

Not wanting to sound too ignorant here, but is the truck leaning towards, or away, from the dip stick?  And is the stick fairly vertical, or at a good slope?  I'm thinking perhaps the oil level really isn't that high, but you're possibly worrying too much.

Edited by rickeieio

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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31 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

???

Not wanting to sound too ignorant here, but is the truck leaning towards, or away, from the dip stick?  And is the stick fairly vertical, or at a good slope?  I'm thinking perhaps the oil level really isn't that high, but you're possibly worrying too much.

I might be. 

Not sure if I could determine the smell of fuel. But then it didn't have that typical engine oil smell I'm use to. And it was noticeably thinner.

I do feel better with fresh oil in there and a known amount reading on the stick. Going to monitor it closely now.

Did notice on the 60 mile run into Billings that the engine temp was running cooler than normal. Just above 170 with peaks around 200 on hills. Noticeably lower than in the past.

Edited by trimster

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

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If you are getting oil dilution as indicated from an injector, the next issue is burning the piston.     Over fueling a diesel is not like a spark ignition engine.     The more fuel the more heat in that cylinder.     I lost an injector in a Ram with a 5.9 and burned the piston to the first ringland in less that a few hundred miles.     I was towing a heavy trailer at the time.

 

I hate to say this but, changing the oil is like, rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic.    If anything you would want to kill that cylinders fuel flow.     Do you know what injector is at issue?   

 

Steve 

2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift

1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta

1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project

 catdiesellogo.jpg.e96e571c41096ef39b447f78b9c2027c.jpg Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine.   

 

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I don't. I'd need to arrange shop time for them to test. Here, that's weeks out I've been told. 

I'm kinda screwed on all fronts.

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

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Just now, usbusin said:

Is this something a mobile mechanic could diagnose if one were available?  

There are. Had not thought of that.  On the phone now....

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

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Stuck out. None of them do mobile injection work. 

Tri-state does volvo. But can't get to diagnose until Friday with the requirement that it be there until Monday.  In otherwords,  they can't get to until Monday...maybe. 

Then the whole rv spot rears its ugly head. Crap.

Robert & Lisa
'14 Keystone Fuzion 315 38' 5er

2015 Volvo VNL 670, D13, iShift 'The Tartis' (ours)

2013 Smart Fortwo Passion 'K-9'

2011 CanAm Spyder RT Limited (Ours)

We are both USAF vets.

LbjZhp0l.jpg

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