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Steve from SoCal

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About Steve from SoCal

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  • Location
    Woodland Hill, Ca. and Hutchinson Ks.
  • Interests
    Anything that burns fuel, creating gizmos, flyin, floatin, drivin

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  1. From the work and environment it looks like this aint your first rodeo!!! What are using to weld this together Cobra, Alumapro? Great looking bed and details. Steve
  2. Considering that it requires an HDT to tow it, it fits here far better than general 5th wheel topic. Maybe a MDT "could" tow it, no 1ton cowboys need apply. Honestly, that is more like a mobile home or park trailer than a traveling RV. Steve
  3. That trailer length and the rear overhang just seem like trouble. Even with a day cab that would be 72+ feet long. The tail swing is what really concerns me. Steve
  4. I know this is an old thread, I was going to use a tarp motor to open the ramp door on my trailer, I didn't because I need a clutch release. These tarp motors and a sprocket/chain set up would work well on a hand crank conversion. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-HP-50-1-Gear-Ratio-12V-Apache-Slim-Universal-Dump-Truck-Tarping-System-Motor/401779538886?hash=item5d8bed3bc6:g:wyAAAOSwCYFc9USp
  5. Most heavy trucks with air compressors have 15 or so CFM pumps, there are 30+ CFM pumps available. A member here has a large compressor on their truck. Even a standard 15 CFM pump is about what a good 5 HP shop compressor will produce. A large tank would likely work well for a short work session. These compressors are not designed to run under constant load. Trying to use one for shop air continuously will take it's toll on the compressor. That is also why you really don't want to have an 80 gallon tank to fill, the duty cycle would be hard on the compressor. Steve
  6. You are correct, The KZ website lists the gross weight of their biggest toyhaulers at 13995
  7. I get the same number Rick got and Bob noted the trailer at 13800 is perhaps the rear axle rating and NOT the max gross weight of the trailer? That sounds very light as a gross weight on a 5th wheel toy hauler? Steve
  8. I have the upper bunk out of my truck, it may fit others as well. The frame is 79 wide by 31 not including the hinge pins or stop blocks. I will include the hinge brackets and stops. This is located in Hutchinson, Ks a couple miles from the fairground. I would rather somebody use it than cut it up for scrap. Steve
  9. Labor is a major cost, it is not the only one by far. My material cost list with no furniture or decor items is just under 53K. That includes steel, aluminum, windows, bath fixtures, kitchen appliances, plumbing, electrical, HVAC and insulation. That does not include wall treatment, flooring, soft furniture or window treatments. A good used trailer is between 10~20 grand, custom paint and exterior finish to make the thing look like an RV at least another 10 grand. You could paint it yourself, materials about 3 grand + prep. Steve
  10. Bob, I don't think there is any seat belt system that is designed or approved for side ways seating. It may not be what you want to hear but, having people seated sideways while in transit is just plain unsafe. High G acceleration in that axis is not tolerated well by the human body. Steve
  11. Regarding openings, when you cut a section of skin and ribs, doubler plates are used to strengthen the surrounding area. Large openings <4 feet need bracing in the roof rails and possibly straps under the sill. That is in addition to the frame that would define the opening. All the full height trailers are 13' 6" high, very few states east of the Rocky's allow trailers higher than this. I would suggest that you make no protrusions through the roof. There are several types of drop frame van trailers, some with 22.5 wheels, 17.5 and a few with 19.5. A single drop, one with just a simple offset of the body behind the "gooseneck" will be 114~119" high with 22.5, 125~126 with 17.5 The single drop trailers would have at least as much ground clearance as a raised 5th wheel. A double drop trailer would have "dog houses" or wheel boxes inside the back and be much lower. Finding anything shorter than a 48' trailer is going to be an older trailer or purpose built. Your best option is to get a 53' most common newish size and shorten it to length. A 53 cut down to a 43 would have the rear axle at the very back of the trailer. Steve
  12. Here is the only mod I have done to the trailer yet, a ramp rear door to load cars. Steve
  13. Commercial van trailers are built very differently than a camper/RV 5th wheel. When you cut an opening for a slide the wall has to be reinforced along with the floor/roof. Weight of materials and weight distribution both along the trailer and side to side are important. Don't buy a trailer with a translucent roof or panels. Sheet and post trailers are the most common and easiest to modify. Fifth wheel plates are a high wear item on commercial trailers, they can be costly to replace. You most likely want a drop frame van, Kentucky and Stoughton are the best starting points. Steve
  14. What resources do you have to build a trailer? I have a project kinda like what you are talking about. The development is mostly complete, I haven't done any work on the trailer except to build a ramp door for the back so far. I need to use the trailer to move a house full of stuff before I begin the construction. Steve
  15. I think maybe 1957 and 1975?
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