Jump to content

Steve from SoCal

Validated Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Steve from SoCal

  • Rank
    Major Contributor
  • Birthday 05/17/1960

Optional Fields

  • Lifetime Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Woodland Hill, Ca. and Hutchinson Ks.
  • Interests
    Anything that burns fuel, creating gizmos, flyin, floatin, drivin

Recent Profile Visitors

5,958 profile views
  1. The extra mass of the 3/4 Vs 1/2 points to longevity and because of the greater mass, higher inertia. If the wheels were put on with a 1" impact and have been on for a while, you will likely need a torque multiplier to break them loose. The hitch bolts not so much, but rust is the enemy here. The 1/2" guns at max output are at the limits of the metallurgical limits, a 3/4" adds a bit of cushion. Steve
  2. I have 1/2, 3/4 and, 1" impacts For wheels I suggest at least a 3/4 drive. While the torque may be the same on the anvil of the two, there is more mass in the 3/4 sockets. Just buy the sockets you need. Steve
  3. Actually my truck is where I would start with a "dream" truck. My dream would be my lil kitty C13 with a late Allison automatic. Add all wheel disc brakes, a couple of nice seats and, a few gizmos. The dream is only incomplete because finding Allison part$ for a Cat are $pecial in a real costly way. Steve
  4. Rectangular tubing is weak in that position, use 1 1/4 .187 angle like I did it is under an inch high points up. Secure your deck panels to the X-members not the stringers. The strut braces should have at least a 30 better more angle to the truck frame, extend the brace mounts down below the frame rail to get the right angle. The struts don't need to be at the very edge of the body. You want to minimize deflection of the body cantilevered from the truck frame, anything close to 3/4's of the open span is good. Could you build the deck frame in two sections with a break rig
  5. The design you show has a clever idea with the ramps below the car. Because of the span 22" between X-members and no outer support it is weak by design. The edge of the deck will have to support the weight or a good percentage of it and the ramps while loading. The things I would do to strengthen the deck and add support are, attach braces from the outside edge of the deck to the frame. The deck itself is thin and spans a wide distance, 1 or 1 1/4" angle welded as cross supports every 9~10". The pic below is the ramp door I build to drive my cars up it is 2X3 rail
  6. The pin height typically is 47~49", you could raise the pin as much as possible to 47.5" along with the 2" relief that would give you some breathing room. The suggestion to block the spring box is relieve some of the tension on the side plates, using the block to support the forces transmitted to the spring pack. Given the spring profile, maybe do all of them to get a better range of motion. Steve
  7. Is your trailer level with the hitch compressed now? Can you raise the pin box on the trailer then raise the hitch? Looking at that hitch, you may be able to support the spring tray by using a wood block under it to bear on the steel plate. Are the springs providing a level trailer with variable pin weights? The pin box "looks like" it has a cutaway from the plate how much relief is there between the plate and the arm that goes back to the trailer? Do you know what the pin height is on the trailer? Steve
  8. Maybe I missed it , what is the ride height of the fifth wheel ? Can you raise the fifth wheel plate on the trailer? From the sound of it you will need to recess the deck the swing radius of the lower hitch at least 95~100 degrees on both sides. It is hard to see the hitch geometry from your pic, how about a side view of the entire hitch/fifth wheel plate. Steve
  9. Both of my hitches are in a recessed well, here are the TSLB and Holland. Steve
  10. I made my deck modular, the front/rear sections are removable independently. The back saddle bag section has connector tubes that bolt to the front section. My deck is flat and I haul a 48' semi trailer with a 36" king pin, I have 12-14 degrees of dip clearance with 47" of deck behind the kingpin. The deck has 4" clearance to the trailer frame with the air up, the pic shows the trailer with no air in the truck suspension. The body IS not full width on my truck it is 88" wide at the black frame work. You have a trailer with the kingpin at or near the front of the trailer, e
  11. Unless there is some compelling reason to include the beaver tail, I would flatten the back. Your hitch is so far back dip clearance is not an issue. The space you gain could allow taller cabinets under the bed. Steve
  12. From the work and environment it looks like this aint your first rodeo!!! What are using to weld this together Cobra, Alumapro? Great looking bed and details. Steve
  13. Considering that it requires an HDT to tow it, it fits here far better than general 5th wheel topic. Maybe a MDT "could" tow it, no 1ton cowboys need apply. Honestly, that is more like a mobile home or park trailer than a traveling RV. Steve
  14. That trailer length and the rear overhang just seem like trouble. Even with a day cab that would be 72+ feet long. The tail swing is what really concerns me. Steve
  • Create New...