Toy hauler tie-downs

[Rotorhead]

Hello All,

I have not seen a fifth wheel interior yet. I am doing some research to see if some toy haulers can carry a small car. I have found some information that says there are approximately 23 small cars that can fit in the right trailers. I was wonder what the weight rating is for the tie-down points in a typical toy hauler? I have seen a rig out here in Virginia going southbound on the 95 pulling a trailer pulling a car. However, I would rather not do that. If I can find the right hauler I can sell my class C and be one step closer to completing my rig. My wife enjoyed her first two hour ride in the truck so she may be in

So, for everyone with fifth wheel experience I would appreciate all you input.

Thanks,

Chuck

[Twotoes]

It's not just the tie downs that are of concern. I have heard of some cases where the ramp on the toy hauler can not handle the weight of the car. Make sure that you have a reinforced ramp to load the vehicle you intend to tie down once inside.

[Scottiedot]

We have a 2017 Heartland Cyclone 4113, I’ve loaded a 1987 Mini Cooper in it with no issues. I winch it in

[Rotorhead]

21 minutes ago, Twotoes said:

It's not just the tie downs that are of concern. I have heard of some cases where the ramp on the toy hauler can not handle the weight of the car. Make sure that you have a reinforced ramp to load the vehicle you intend to tie down once inside.

Ah, I did not think of that, glad I asked.

[Rotorhead]

20 minutes ago, Scottiedot said:

We have a 2017 Heartland Cyclone 4113, I’ve loaded a 1987 Mini Cooper in it with no issues. I winch it in

That is one that we would consider. Or a Toyota Corolla

[jkoenig24]

Once you get whatever vehicle you buy inside the trailer, there will be VERY little room to get up front for those tie downs. Maybe someone here has a technique to make accessing the tie downs easier?

[lappir]

I have a custom built toy hauler and have hauled a 1999 Isuzu Vehicross and currently a 2019 Jeep Wrangler. I wouldn't do it with any of the commercially available toyhaulers. 

 

Rod

[Av8r3400]

I have driven my Chevy Spark into ours.  No issues. 
 

We have D-rings in the floor that I tie through the shell to the floor at the 4 corners.  This is also the method that I use to secure the UTV (our normal cargo). 

[dennisvr]

Just a thought.  Just because you can drive one in doesn't mean you can get out of the car once its inside.  It must be narrow enough or a convertible.  

[Rotorhead]

2 hours ago, dennisvr said:

Just a thought.  Just because you can drive one in doesn't mean you can get out of the car once its inside.  It must be narrow enough or a convertible.  

Yes, that would be a problem. haha.

[Rotorhead]

Thanks for all the replies.

I am just thinking through some options. I still have some work to do on the truck before I start converting it.

I am hoping to be all done with the work by next spring, including the jack-a-lopee. I am going to hold off on the hitch until I know more about what trailer and kingpin vs the goose neck with a ball.

Planning, saving, and doing.

[rickeieio]

We've hauled a smart in two different t/h.  Round Boy had a hard time getting out unless the car was far to one side.  Tying down was difficult too, as we had to lie on the floor to reach some points.  We cut our load/tie time in half when we started to haul on the truck.

[mr. cob]

16 hours ago, Rotorhead said:

Hello All,

I have not seen a fifth wheel interior yet. I am doing some research to see if some toy haulers can carry a small car. I have found some information that says there are approximately 23 small cars that can fit in the right trailers. I was wonder what the weight rating is for the tie-down points in a typical toy hauler? I have seen a rig out here in Virginia going southbound on the 95 pulling a trailer pulling a car. However, I would rather not do that. If I can find the right hauler I can sell my class C and be one step closer to completing my rig. My wife enjoyed her first two hour ride in the truck so she may be in

So, for everyone with fifth wheel experience I would appreciate all you input.

Thanks,

Chuck

Howdy Chuck,

I have used a toy hauler for the last ten years hauling anything from many motorcycles to the Smart Car, and now the CAN AM SxS.  Max weight I have carried would be close to 3,000 pounds of vehicles.  In my opinion the BIGGEST mistake most folks make when buying a toy hauler is they get one with too SHORT of a garage.  I have had an open style trailer with a 16 foot garage and for the last 8 years have had one with a wall and door between the living quarters and the garage, the garage on my present trailer is 18 feet long.   A point to remember, MOST toy haulers have very little storage space, they are not made for full time living.  Having a larger garage gives you some place to store stuff that you would be able to put into the under and side storage areas of regular travel trailers.

MOST toy haulers will have gross weight LESS then 20,000 pounds, many the two axle type much less.  My triple axle trailer has a gross weight of 20,000 pounds and a TOTAL cargo capacity of 4,200 pounds.  REMEMBER that cargo capacity includes ALL of your camping gear, cloths, groceries, tools, spare parts, water, gas in the toy fuel tank.

If your going to be happy with a toy hauler you have to keep in mind that ( one ) you have to have ROOM to get around your vehicle to tie it down and ( two )you have to have enough side room to open the door of the vehicle to get in and out of it.  My toy hauler is the wide body style, it has 98 inches between the walls, 96 inch wide ramp door opening.

You can buy an enclosed car hauler type trailer that will carry a full size car, small truck or SUV but it won't have living quarters unless your willing spend a very considerable amount of money.  Most toy haulers are NOT built to live in full time, they don't have the insulation and condensation protection of a full time live in travel trailer.  There are toy haulers out there that are built like travel trailers for full time living, they are very expensive.  So if your going the toy hauler route make sure that the vehicle you want to carry will FIT, allows ease of tie down FRONT as well as rear and won't overload your trailers gross weight requirement.  Unless you buy a premium top of the line toy hauler or unless you make a deal for it to come equipped with GOOD QUALITY tires be prepared to lay out substantial money to replace the junk tires and wheels that most toy haulers come with.

I hope this has been of some use to you.

Dave

[Rotorhead]

16 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

We've hauled a smart in two different t/h.  Round Boy had a hard time getting out unless the car was far to one side.  Tying down was difficult too, as we had to lie on the floor to reach some points.  We cut our load/tie time in half when we started to haul on the truck.

That is a good point. I don't want to spend an excessive amount of time packing up. But then again, I am starting to transition into the "I'll get where I'm going eventually" mode. hahaha

[Rotorhead]

5 minutes ago, mr. cob said:

Howdy Chuck,

I have used a toy hauler for the last ten years hauling anything from many motorcycles to the Smart Car, and now the CAN AM SxS.  Max weight I have carried would be close to 3,000 pounds of vehicles.  In my opinion the BIGGEST mistake most folks make when buying a toy hauler is they get one with too SHORT of a garage.  I have had an open style trailer with a 16 foot garage and for the last 8 years have had one with a wall and door between the living quarters and the garage, the garage on my present trailer is 18 feet long.   A point to remember, MOST toy haulers have very little storage space, they are not made for full time living.  Having a larger garage gives you some place to store stuff that you would be able to put into the under and side storage areas of regular travel trailers.

MOST toy haulers will have gross weight LESS then 20,000 pounds, many the two axle type much less.  My triple axle trailer has a gross weight of 20,000 pounds and a TOTAL cargo capacity of 4,200 pounds.  REMEMBER that cargo capacity includes ALL of your camping gear, cloths, groceries, tools, spare parts, water, gas in the toy fuel tank.

If your going to be happy with a toy hauler you have to keep in mind that ( one ) you have to have ROOM to get around your vehicle to tie it down and ( two )you have to have enough side room to open the door of the vehicle to get in and out of it.  My toy hauler is the wide body style, it has 98 inches between the walls, 96 inch wide ramp door opening.

You can buy an enclosed car hauler type trailer that will carry a full size car, small truck or SUV but it won't have living quarters unless your willing spend a very considerable amount of money.  Most toy haulers are NOT built to live in full time, they don't have the insulation and condensation protection of a full time live in travel trailer.  There are toy haulers out there that are built like travel trailers for full time living, they are very expensive.  So if your going the toy hauler route make sure that the vehicle you want to carry will FIT, allows ease of tie down FRONT as well as rear and won't overload your trailers gross weight requirement.  Unless you buy a premium top of the line toy hauler or unless you make a deal for it to come equipped with GOOD QUALITY tires be prepared to lay out substantial money to replace the junk tires and wheels that most toy haulers come with.

I hope this has been of some use to you.

Dave

Thanks Dave.

It sure is of great use. There is certainly a lot more to consider that I thought. There are always the details that you won't know unless you own one. So glad I have asked.

With six tires how many spares do you carry?

Chuck

[rickeieio]

Doesn't matter how many you carry, cuz you'll blow out one more than that.  We have blown three at once, and have actually had to replace six at one time due to a brake controller malfunction.

RVing ain't cheap.

[Rotorhead]

51 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Doesn't matter how many you carry, cuz you'll blow out one more than that.  We have blown three at once, and have actually had to replace six at one time due to a brake controller malfunction.

RVing ain't cheap.

You're right about that.

Someone on here said something like "If you ain't payin' you ain't playin'" hahaha.

 

[Av8r3400]

12 hours ago, dennisvr said:

Just a thought.  Just because you can drive one in doesn't mean you can get out of the car once its inside.  It must be narrow enough or a convertible.  

My side by side is wider than the Spark...

[Star Dreamer]

We put our 5700# van in our Toyhauler. We have 5000# rated D Rings in 4 places for securing it and 2 additional ones to control bounce. 

 Be sure the D rings are bolted to the floor and not just screwed into the wood. Ours are through bolted and we have an 1-1/2 thick plywood floor. Our ramp door is rated for 5000# but I used a center support when loading the van as I was seeing a lot of bowing in the door. I do not use the center support for our SUV or the smart if I load them. 

[Rotorhead]

1 hour ago, Star Dreamer said:

We put our 5700# van in our Toyhauler. We have 5000# rated D Rings in 4 places for securing it and 2 additional ones to control bounce. 

 Be sure the D rings are bolted to the floor and not just screwed into the wood. Ours are through bolted and we have an 1-1/2 thick plywood floor. Our ramp door is rated for 5000# but I used a center support when loading the van as I was seeing a lot of bowing in the door. I do not use the center support for our SUV or the smart if I load them. 

Thanks for the information.