Electrical Connectors

[SuiteSuccess]

Recommendations for best brands of heat shrink butt splice, terminal rings, etc.  Having trouble with the insulated connectors from HD/Lowes tearing with crimping.  Heard nylon much less likely to tear.

[Jaydrvr]

19 minutes ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Recommendations for best brands of heat shrink butt splice, terminal rings, etc.  Having trouble with the insulated connectors from HD/Lowes tearing with crimping.  Heard nylon much less likely to tear.

https://www.genuinedealz.com/ Great outfit, great service, great products, great prices. I've been using them since they were a tiny eBay presence many years ago. Still completely satisfied. You do need to use the appropriate crimper when using heat shrink connectors.. Not that I always do.... Jay

Edited November 30, 2020 by Jaydrvr
Insert url

[SuiteSuccess]

Thank you Jay.  I have been using the “Ideal” brand from the box stores but like. I said, not ideal (pun intended ).  Have heard Ancor brand is good.

[Parrformance]

For the small gauge wires, I keep a box of these in the camper and in the shop at home.

No need to crimp, and only requires a heat gun to solder and seal the connection.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S62KYSL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[SuiteSuccess]

49 minutes ago, Parrformance said:

For the small gauge wires, I keep a box of these in the camper and in the shop at home.

No need to crimp, and only requires a heat gun to solder and seal the connection.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S62KYSL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, have some of those.  Again Ideal brand.  The ones I tried did not hold very well when I pulled them apart.  I cut one in two and it seems the solder only covered the surface strands and did not penetrate to the core strands.  Not trying to find fault in everything but wondering if branding makes a difference.  I’ve been putting a new inverter in my truck and my major concern is connecting the 110 v shore power wires.  My feed is 10 gauge stranded while my inverter cord is 12 gauge stranded.  Would love to solder those connections and cover with heat shrink but room in the mount doesn’t allow that safely, so I used yellow heat shrink butt splices but didn’t seem as good a connection as I would like.

Edited November 30, 2020 by SuiteSuccess

[Jaydrvr]

58 minutes ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Thank you Jay.  I have been using the “Ideal” brand from the box stores but like. I said, not ideal (pun intended ).  Have heard Ancor brand is good.

Ancor is definitely a premium product in every way. Never been unhappy with it, other than the seriously premium price. Jay

[SuiteSuccess]

Think I found what I need.  Ancor heat shrink,  step down butt connectors.  Jay, you’re right pricey but looks like it is quality.

[Jaydrvr]

2 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Think I found what I need.  Ancor heat shrink,  step down butt connectors.  Jay, you’re right pricey but looks like it is quality.

Quality is a great thing. Jay

[lockmup68]

9 hours ago, Parrformance said:

For the small gauge wires, I keep a box of these in the camper and in the shop at home.

No need to crimp, and only requires a heat gun to solder and seal the connection.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S62KYSL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have same one from Amazon. They work great.

I also bought some good wire strippers and a ratcheting crimper, Makes a big difference. 

 

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

We used Ancor products back in the boat business days.  Having a proper crimper that doesn't break the insulation is necessary.  

[SuiteSuccess]

8 minutes ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

We used Ancor products back in the boat business days.  Having a proper crimper that doesn't break the insulation is necessary.  

Planning on getting some of these.  Have a good ratchet crimper but it’s hard to get in tight places.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Channellock-9-1-2-in-Crimping-Pliers-909/202304949

[Jaydrvr]

12 minutes ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Planning on getting some of these.  Have a good ratchet crimper but it’s hard to get in tight places.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Channellock-9-1-2-in-Crimping-Pliers-909/202304949

Those look like they might penetrate the insulation. You'll want to find ones that are like a shallow "C" on both sides, so they don't cut the insulation. Jay

[Jaydrvr]

This looks like a decent one.

https://shop.marinehowto.com/products/controlled-cycle-heat-shrink-crimp-tool

[Jaydrvr]

Discussion about proper wire termination.

https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/

[Darryl&Rita]

20 minutes ago, Jaydrvr said:

Those look like they might penetrate the insulation. You'll want to find ones that are like a shallow "C" on both sides, so they don't cut the insulation. Jay

Yup. Those Channel Lok crimpers handle both insulated and un-insulated crimps. The position closest to the hinge is for un-insulated, so don't use it for insulated style, or you'll destroy them every time. 

[SuiteSuccess]

17 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Yup. Those Channel Lok crimpers handle both insulated and un-insulated crimps. The position closest to the hinge is for un-insulated, so don't use it for insulated style, or you'll destroy them every time. 

Yep, works on both types.  Did my research, 😊

[Darryl&Rita]

👍 Research is good. I have to keep an eye on every apprentice, because the position closest to the jaws gives the best leverage. If you think you'll be doing lots of insulated connectors, look into T&B crimps. They swap the positions, compared to the Channel Lok set, putting the insulated position close to the hinge. I like them better.

[SuiteSuccess]

12 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

👍 Research is good. I have to keep an eye on every apprentice, because the position closest to the jaws gives the best leverage. If you think you'll be doing lots of insulated connectors, look into T&B crimps. They swap the positions, compared to the Channel Lok set, putting the insulated position close to the hinge. I like them better.

I am definitely a padawan.  Mostly insulated connectors so I’ll look into T&B.  Thanks.

[SuiteSuccess]

Darryl,

The only T&B pliers type crimpers (which is what I want), says for Sta-Kon insulated and non-insulated connectors.  Is that just their brand? And would it work on Ancor brand cause that’s what I’ve already ordered? 

[folivier]

I switched to Wirefy heat shrink connectors and also using their ratchet crimpers.  Very pleased with both.  Crimpers are easy to use and designed to not damage heat shrink connectors.

https://wirefyshop.com

[SuiteSuccess]

17 minutes ago, folivier said:

I switched to Wirefy heat shrink connectors and also using their ratchet crimpers.  Very pleased with both.  Crimpers are easy to use and designed to not damage heat shrink connectors.

https://wirefyshop.com

I have some pretty good ratcheting crimpers for insulated connectors.  Kleins I believe.  Problem is when joining three wires they are too bulky to get between the wires without stripping the outer covering over the three wires way back.  That’s why I’m looking at some good pliers type to have available.  Just watched a review comparing the Channelocks vs. T&B type with different positions of the insulated crimper and it favored the Channelocks because jaws don’t have to be opened as wide to get connector seated.  Final crimps were similar.  Decisions, decisions.

[Darryl&Rita]

The T&B crimps work with other brands, but Sta-Kon is their proprietary brand. Sta-Kon is a large step up from Ideal brand, and I've used them with Anchor brand, but I don't have experience with the Wirefy line. I will say that I haven't been satisfied with any heat gun solder connection to date. When I solder, crimp connectors aren't part of the process. 

Edited December 1, 2020 by Darryl&Rita
Spelling of Wirefy

[SuiteSuccess]

Update.  After watching several reviews went with the Channelock plier crimpers.  With the insulated further out, was easier to crimp in tight places.  Also found some Ankor “yellow” to “blue” step down, heat shrink butt splices.  Pricey but worth the money.  No comparison to Ideal brand.  Really liked the Channelocks also.  Project done.

[franco-bolli]

I use the heat shrink versions at work daily creating automated devices.  They seem to work best when these steps are followed:

• ONE TIME CREATION:
  • 2 alligator clips
  • 1 -12 gauge solid core wire  4 inches (or to your preference) long
  • solder alligator clip to each end of 12 gauge wire
  • bend wire to form a "U" shape with alligator clips in a "usable" orientation to hold wires to be crimped/soldered, shrink sleeve.
• don't strip too much insulation! 1/4"  at most.
• put alligator clip from one side of the "U" about an inch down from the stripped wire to be joined
• add a drop of Electrical flux to one of the stripped ends
• put the heat shrinkable seal over the wire that the alligator clip is holding
• insert the other wire to be joined into the heat shrinkable seal
• position the two stripped ends so they overlap
• clip the remaining alligator clip to this new wire to hold it in place with both wires overlapped and straight across
  • the flexibility of the 12 ga will allow for adjustment and holding in place.
• move the heat shrinkable seal so that the solder ring is directly over the two stripped wires.
• sometimes, I adjust the alligator clips so that they hold they are just on the outside of the heat shrinkable seal so it doesn't move around on the wires
• with a "GOOD" heat gun ( mine is about 650 Degrees max) turn it on and let it come up to temperature
  • I haven't tried this with a Harbor freight heat gun yet.
• hold on to one wire with your finger out of the way, and play the heat gun onto the solder ring, rotating either the wire or the heat gun to get to all sides of the ring. Keep moving until the internal ring either disappears or the solder is visible on the stripped wires.
• The "GOOD" shrinkable seals will completely disperse the solder to the wires, the others won't do this completely but seem to hold well.
• Make sure to get to both ends of the heat shrinkable seal.
• DON"T MOVE THE SOLDERED JOINT until the shrinkable seal has solidified, sometime blowing on it will cool it quicker and some of them will cloud up a little bit when they solidify.
• Before blowing on it, you could reposition the joint so that it's straight in line, but do it quickly.

Some have used the "helping hands" alligator clip holding devices, but most times, the wires I need to joint are hanging in the air.

In some instances, we use these level nut clamps to join wire. Not Cheap but very effective. There are versions of these that will handle 30 amps. I've been told but have not verified that they are acceptable for home wiring too. Probably not usable outdoors, but they work great for quick connections.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-412-221-413-Lever-Nut-Assortment/dp/B01GVS7ZES/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=wago+spring&qid=1607204898&sr=8-11

 

 

Under the rig, I've also used the 3M Skotch-lock suitcases with the dielectric fill.  The fill definitely delays corrosion.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-Electrical-Connector-stranded/dp/B0035R7TKO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1VP8KPF2L07WD&dchild=1&keywords=3m+suitcase+connectors&qid=1607205051&sprefix=3M+suitcas%2Caps%2C245&sr=8-3

Just make sure you open the bag and count them, I got one bag, new, with only 18 in there.

 

For Crimpers,  have a look at ECLIPSE brand.  They have replaceable jaws for insulated and non insulated crimps of many sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/ProsKit-300-005-Ratcheted-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0050KDKUC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=I3WABBCM1DZS&dchild=1&keywords=eclipse+crimper&qid=1607205231&sprefix=Eclipse+cr%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-3

They work great and won't break the bank to get set up with what you need.

Hope this helps,
FB

 

 

[jenandjon]

We go through tons of these on the farm. Everything from radio installs in the dash and wiring harness repairs in the the frame.

I started buying whatever they had a Napa then I found that these are much cheaper. Side by side comparison the only difference seems to be that it takes a little more heat to shrink the ones from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Shrink-Connectors-Grade-Electrical/dp/B07HFKW7FJ/ref=sr_1_11?crid=268MBQB4BTXOL&dchild=1&keywords=heat+shrink+butt+connectors+22-18&qid=1607258550&sprefix=heat+shrink%2Caps%2C261&sr=8-11

 

https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Connectors-Waterproof-Automotive-Electrical/dp/B07ZPF1TTX/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/138-5874858-9791724?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07ZPF1TTX&pd_rd_r=df9f9f61-7f03-436e-9e40-c00069ee8880&pd_rd_w=YDVsL&pd_rd_wg=6PMOY&pf_rd_p=f325d01c-4658-4593-be83-3e12ca663f0e&pf_rd_r=MCV7XAN36NRQW5HPJK6G&psc=1&refRID=MCV7XAN36NRQW5HPJK6G