Kinda off topic, need tips on how to remove bolt that spins

[porky69]

Your new seats will probably have many, many extra mounting holes in the base. Worst case, cut the head off of the problem bolt and pick another hole nearby and mark it on the floor and either buy a kit to install a Nutsert (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Astro-Pneumatic-13-in-Nut-Thread-Hand-Riveter-Kit-with-Nosepiece-Set-AST1442/206859159) or find a local mechanic/fabricator that has them and have them install one for you.

 

You would think that 3 bolts would be enough but you would be amazed at the forces on the base and over time the seat will rock a little and eventually come loose or break the other bolts, I have seen this happen.

[mr. cob]

21 hours ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

If you can get the head off the bolt, you might be able to drill the bolt out and run a Helicoil insert in and still use the hole.

 

Howdy Jim,

The bolt spins, so drilling it will be difficult if at all possible.  Once I get the seat out of the way and room to work on it I'll figure something out.

Dave

[mr. cob]

17 hours ago, porky69 said:

Your new seats will probably have many, many extra mounting holes in the base. Worst case, cut the head off of the problem bolt and pick another hole nearby and mark it on the floor and either buy a kit to install a Nutsert (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Astro-Pneumatic-13-in-Nut-Thread-Hand-Riveter-Kit-with-Nosepiece-Set-AST1442/206859159) or find a local mechanic/fabricator that has them and have them install one for you.

 

You would think that 3 bolts would be enough but you would be amazed at the forces on the base and over time the seat will rock a little and eventually come loose or break the other bolts, I have seen this happen.

Howdy porky69,

Once I have the seat out of the way and have room to work installing a Nutsert, may be the easiet way to deal with this.

Dave

[solo318]

I haven't read through all of the posts thoroughly, But let me give you an alternate option. Cut the corner of the base off with a sawzall. The whole corner, then you can take the seat out. then you can access to the bolt head. a cheap 1/2 inch drive impact and a screwdriver under the remaining part of the seat base should be enough to remove the bolt. You can run a drill through whats left of the threaded insert and put a self locking nut under the floor. Your new seats ussually come with a new base, so you are not out anything to destroy the old base.

 

[Lance A Lott]

Once the seat is out no matter the method used you can spot a tab to he bolt to hold it while drilling.

[Scrap]

They use a nyloc spline nut.  So once you get the head off and the seat out just give it a hit and it'll push it out of the seat channel.  Then you can just put a regular nut on.  On a W9 you need to remove the chicken lights and conspicuity panel and get to it sideways above the toolbox/steps.  379 I have no idea.  Move the air tank?  The seat channel runs fore-aft of the cab just under the seat and on a PB the spline nuts are directly in it.  You'll feel a set of four of them in the side ears of that channel.  The inner set are a mother to get to and may be easier through the shifter hole.

Does the lowrider mount bolt directly on?  I've only done one (on a KW) and it needed an adapter plate, so at least you can put the new bolt on and hold the nut without a stupid seat base in the way.

 

[mr. cob]

20 hours ago, solo318 said:

I haven't read through all of the posts thoroughly, But let me give you an alternate option. Cut the corner of the base off with a sawzall. The whole corner, then you can take the seat out. then you can access to the bolt head. a cheap 1/2 inch drive impact and a screwdriver under the remaining part of the seat base should be enough to remove the bolt. You can run a drill through whats left of the threaded insert and put a self locking nut under the floor. Your new seats ussually come with a new base, so you are not out anything to destroy the old base.

 

Howdy solo318,

I don't want to do anything that will wreck the seat mount, there is some resale value as they are in good shape.  Thanks for your suggestion.

Dave

[mr. cob]

2 hours ago, Scrap said:

They use a nyloc spline nut.  So once you get the head off and the seat out just give it a hit and it'll push it out of the seat channel.  Then you can just put a regular nut on.  On a W9 you need to remove the chicken lights and conspicuity panel and get to it sideways above the toolbox/steps.  379 I have no idea.  Move the air tank?  The seat channel runs fore-aft of the cab just under the seat and on a PB the spline nuts are directly in it.  You'll feel a set of four of them in the side ears of that channel.  The inner set are a mother to get to and may be easier through the shifter hole.

Does the lowrider mount bolt directly on?  I've only done one (on a KW) and it needed an adapter plate, so at least you can put the new bolt on and hold the nut without a stupid seat base in the way.

 

Howdy Brian,

Thanks for your reply, There is nothing like what you describe on my truck.  The seats that I have ordered do NOT need an adapter plate, the seat base has many bolt patterns in it, as there are different bolt patters to choose from I have decided the easiest way to deal with this is just cut the spinning bolt off, leave it in place, probably put a tack weld on it to keep it from rattling and make use of the multiple bolt patterns to just install some kind of nutsert to secure the forth corner.  The one extra thing I did order when buying these seats is the standard height seat base, that way in case I didn't like the low base or if at the time of future sale the perspective buyer didn't like the low base I would have the standard height base on hand.

Dave

Dave

[noteven]

Dave are you adding a sweet Rat Fink shifter extension?

[mr. cob]

3 hours ago, noteven said:

Dave are you adding a sweet Rat Fink shifter extension?

NOPE 

[mr. cob]

Howdy All,

The next chapter in the continuing saga of Cob's seat replacement.  Dan, offered to loan me his air chisel, I drove to his home picked it up and after swapping lies for a bit figured that with luck this would be the ticket to getting the passenger seat removed. 

NOPE, didn't work, even after sharping the chisel it just didn't cut but rather beat the heck out of the bolt, looked to be a regular grade 5 hardware store bolt it sure wasn't hardened.  So back to my original plan, took the die grinder and with a carbide burr ground the head of that darned bolt OFF. the seat is now OUT of the truck.  Of course with the head of the bolt gone it and whatever it was screwed into fell down into the space between the two floors. 

So I suppose it will rattle and drive me nuts with noise but even if I had gotten the bolt out whatever it was threaded into would have dropped down into that space so it is what it is, there was no way to pull it from the top and the bottom is sealed so with out tearing half the truck apart there is no retrieving that threaded insert.

However, now that the bolt-insert is out of the way it looks like it might be possible to install one of those nut-sert thingamabobs in the same hole.  Tomorrow when the stores are open again I'll look into getting what is needed to make the thread repair and pick up all new bolts and some more Anti-Size, to slather on them when I install the new seats.  At least it wasn't raining, light clouds, could actually see a bit of sunshine, 38 degrees, not a bad day for this time of year in the Great Nor-Wet.

Dave

[GlennWest]

telescoping magnet?

[mr. cob]

Just now, GlennWest said:

telescoping magnet?

Howdy Glenn,

The hole in the floor, is smaller then the threaded insert, so even if I could get a hold of it there is no way to pull it up through the hole in the floor.  I suppose I could cut a hole in the floor and then weld that back in but the floor is aluminum, I am not setup to weld aluminum, this would also involve removing the carpet, this is simply way to much work for me and I won't pay to have it done.

Dave

[GlennWest]

You can gas weld aluminum but yes, carpet and all would have to come out. 

[Lance A Lott]

You could put some silicone calking in to try and stick the nut to the floor, one would assume it fell straight down. Or spray foam.

[GlennWest]

45 minutes ago, Lance A Lott said:

You could put some silicone calking in to try and stick the nut to the floor, one would assume it fell straight down. Or spray foam.

How about that spay foam insulation. Spray in hole and get insulation at the same time.

[Darryl&Rita]

You're worried about a 5/16" nut, rolling around under the floor, over the sound of that big Cat?

[mr. cob]

1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

You're worried about a 5/16" nut, rolling around under the floor, over the sound of that big Cat?

Howdy Darryl,

That big Cat, doesn't make any distracting or irritating noise, it makes MUSIC.

I am thinking probably the easiest way to keep the broken bolt-insert from rattling around ( if it does ) is to get one of those super-duper thin magnets and JB-Weld it to the underside of the bottom floor.

Dave

[Sehc]

Ah. don't worry about that old bolt. It will find it's way out the bottom and you will run it over. 

[mr. cob]

Howdy All,

My new seats were delivered today, they sure look nice, I'll give a full report when I have them installed, pictures will be included in the ride report. 

Dave

[alan0043]

9 hours ago, mr. cob said:

Howdy All,

My new seats were delivered today, they sure look nice, I'll give a full report when I have them installed, pictures will be included in the ride report. 

Dave

😁👍