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Cab Air Bags on Volvo


SuiteSuccess
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Next project in month or so is to replace cab air bags.  Watched Parrformance’s video on this (thanks for posting) but was thinking slightly different about process since my understanding is this can go easily or be a real bear.  Steps I was going to follow.  1.  Open hood to prevent damage. 2.  Air up cab bags then block at bump stops.  3.  Air down bags and disconnect air lines.  4.  Cut the rubber from the bags, unscrew from top, remove lock washer from bottom.  5. Replace bag and air fittings, air up and check for leaks.  Am I thinking correctly?  Last is this possible without removing drom just maybe harder?

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 While you are contemplating this operation on your truck, you just may want to look at what the cab air bags sits on.

 The above post appeared while I was typing mine. They are excellent info to do while you are waiting for this operation.

 

That cross support for tha airbags can rust out. You may want to have that part in hand when you start.

 I had quit a time to remove all the parts and replace everything that needed replaced in there. Probable took three times as long as I thought it would. I also made real sure the new cross member was really well painted as Volvo likes to keep there primer under lock. 

 Next thing is old throwaway clothing including a beany cap. I also now use ski mask for grinding and dirty work under there. I no longer like the dirt in the eye trick that comes with such a job.

 You may need several cut off blades for a the 4" grinder you may need.

 

 Now no swearing on the subject either.

 

   Vern

Edited by Wrknrvr
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How old is the leveling valve? How are the air lines going to and from it?  Add Donvel valves to improve the sway control and ride of the cab. What about the condition/age of the shocks or torsion spring. Might want to change those out while you’re in there. Don’t forget the anti-seize on all the nuts and bolts. Did you get new “ snap rings” for fastening the bottom of the bags!  What about changing to compression type fittings on the bags?  How are your “bump stops”?  Do you have the large steel spacers that look like very large fender washers? They keep the top of the bag from rubbing on the top cross member. Some older models have them and some don’t. 

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1 hour ago, DesertMiner said:

How old is the leveling valve? How are the air lines going to and from it?  Add Donvel valves to improve the sway control and ride of the cab. What about the condition/age of the shocks or torsion spring. Might want to change those out while you’re in there. Don’t forget the anti-seize on all the nuts and bolts. Did you get new “ snap rings” for fastening the bottom of the bags!  What about changing to compression type fittings on the bags?  How are your “bump stops”?  Do you have the large steel spacers that look like very large fender washers? They keep the top of the bag from rubbing on the top cross member. Some older models have them and some don’t. 

Thanks everyone.  Dessert Miner all great points.  I had forgotten about the Donvels.  Something I definitely wanted to add.

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Carl,

Don't sweat it.  With a little pre-soak as others advise, it's not too bad.  Susan did the bulk of the work when we changed ours, until I jacked up the truck so I could get under there too.  I also cut out a panel in our headache rack, as we have no drom.

Vern is right, that cross member can rust out.  Had ours repaired in Alaska.

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On 1/6/2019 at 7:03 PM, SuiteSuccess said:

Next project in month or so is to replace cab air bags.  Watched Parrformance’s video on this (thanks for posting) but was thinking slightly different about process since my understanding is this can go easily or be a real bear.  Steps I was going to follow.  1.  Open hood to prevent damage. 2.  Air up cab bags then block at bump stops.  3.  Air down bags and disconnect air lines.  4.  Cut the rubber from the bags, unscrew from top, remove lock washer from bottom.  5. Replace bag and air fittings, air up and check for leaks.  Am I thinking correctly?  Last is this possible without removing drom just maybe harder?

Is there a link to the video.?

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Went over and looked at truck.  Going to be a bigger project than originally anticipated.  My drom covers the rail access to the top bolt if it busts loose.  Also getting to the bags and shocks will be a bear from under the truck.  My drom is smaller than most and held by 4 bolts easily accessed.  Gonna get to a place I can connect my portable chain hoist to or rent an “A” frame and just remove the drom.  Will make access so much easier.  Will try to get some pics to post so everyone can see the problem.  Cross member is good but want to replace shocks and leveling valve at same time.

Edited by SuiteSuccess
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Here are some pics of my setup.  Shows how removing drom helps.eLO1r4tl.jpg

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Drivers side above, passenger side below.

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View under from passenger side to shocks and leveling valve.

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You can see how the drom covers access to the bolt and rail if the welded nut were to bust loose.  Oh well, just a slight adjustment in plans.  Have to be malleable when we work on these trucks.

 

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8 minutes ago, DesertMiner said:

I’m sure Volvo has a procedure that adjusts it correctly.... a good place to start is don’t adjust the rod between the truck and valve. Measure and make sure the measurement is the same after installing the new parts.

That’s what I was thinking.  I’ve got a bunch of Volvo manuals on my computer.  Will search them.  Thanks DesertMiner, you’ve been a big help. 

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Well just want to add a point that can turn a fun project into a nightmare this happen to me bought new cab air bags new ptc connectors did not check them before installing them. Installed air bags .All along thinking this is easy. Went to air them up, air leak around new fitting. Realized top of air bag was cracked ok thought to myself must of been defective. Took it back got a replacement.  Put old fitting back into replacement air bag. Put air to it . No air leaks but the other one was leaking air. It to was cracked . I said to my self what the heck is going on. Looked a the new  fittings and found out the new ones had a tapered end . Which when installed split the top of the air bag the old fitting had a square threaded end lesson learned the hard way thought I would pass it along.

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Once again $90.00 no head ache, no trouble shooting no reading manuals, we to a semi shop, had tge work done by a professional dropped off in the morrning picked up in the afternoon. No skinned knuckles, no four letter words, no stress, no videos just pulled out my credit card. Sometimes plastic is the best tool of all. 😁

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8 hours ago, Vegas Teacher said:

Once again $90.00 no head ache, no trouble shooting no reading manuals, we to a semi shop, had tge work done by a professional dropped off in the morrning picked up in the afternoon. No skinned knuckles, no four letter words, no stress, no videos just pulled out my credit card. Sometimes plastic is the best tool of all. 😁

Yeah but Corey what’s the fun in that?  Like hiring a chauffeur to drive your truck for you.😜.  (Just kidding with you.).

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