Jump to content

MorRyde w/ ET hitch


Larry&Donna-AK

Recommended Posts

Here is my dilemma. Unlocking the ET hitch using the installed release handle. The MorRyde plate covers the ET hitch release handle therefore I can't attach a 1/2" drive to the hitch handle. The only method I've been able is to use is a small flat bar crowbar wedged between the handle and head to release the king pin. I don't see any adjustments to eliminate the problem. Am I doing wrong? Is there an adjustment for the MorRyde or ET?

I posed this question to ET, suggesting a longer release handle would help. The answer I received was "we tell people not to put the MorRyde on in that manner." I have know idea what that means.

post-30881-0-70313600-1468636659_thumb.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just went out and looked at mine.

 

Re yours, appears like the center hole is close to the rear edge of the 1.5" x 1/4" flat bar. The far hole at the other end could be filled and re drilled closer to the front edge or left side of the bar as we look at it. . This would bring the square hole end of the bar forward, out from under the plate a bit. The bar would pivot on the center hole which opens the jaws. If that isn't enough, try a pce of 2" flat bar and drill the holes in the locations I just mentioned. Center hole close to the rear of the truck and the non square hole close to the front of the truck. 3/4" would buy you enough to make it work.

 

I have an xtra Trailersaver handle from the last hitch you could have but don't think it would work. Have a look at the Trailersaver release handle on their site. It has a dogleg in it which could be flipped the other way and still miss the locking pin.

 

Instead of drilling or cutting a square hole, weld a socket on the bar 1/2" square hole up for flex bar.

 

I'd make the handle or bar longer to increase mechanical advantage. Looks pretty short.

 

It never ends.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just went out and looked at mine.

 

Re yours, appears like the center hole is close to the rear edge of the 1.5" x 1/4" flat bar. The far hole at the other end could be filled and re drilled closer to the front edge or left side of the bar as we look at it. . This would bring the square hole end of the bar forward, out from under the plate a bit. The bar would pivot on the center hole which opens the jaws. If that isn't enough, try a pce of 2" flat bar and drill the holes in the locations I just mentioned. Center hole close to the rear of the truck and the non square hole close to the front of the truck. 3/4" would buy you enough to make it work.

 

I have an xtra Trailersaver handle from the last hitch you could have but don't think it would work. Have a look at the Trailersaver release handle on their site. It has a dogleg in it which could be flipped the other way and still miss the locking pin.

 

Instead of drilling or cutting a square hole, weld a socket on the bar 1/2" square hole up for flex bar.

 

I'd make the handle or bar longer to increase mechanical advantage. Looks pretty short.

 

It never ends.

I'm learning "it never ends"

Yes the handle is to short, I wonder why. I could add approximately 3" to the handle create a bend (dog leg) to keep the handle perpendicular to the head. Great idea

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Henry dose have a longer Handel that he has in the past sold, updated, gave Away or ??

 

I'm still waiting on mine. Maybe this fall is the magic time for getting mine. Hitch needs attention anyway

 

If Henry will share the file I'll cut a few, but that's up to Henry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like the square hole is center on the 1.5" flat bar. The far hole looks off center maybe 3/4" from the rear. That hole needs to be closer to the front of the truck. You may be thinking of the dogleg in a different plane than I mean. It may not be required, my TS would still clear the locking pin without the jog.

 

Check out the release bar on the Trailersaver site. I saw an exploded view somewhere but there are lots of pics scattered thru their User Manual.

 

In my case the wire puller and the pipe with the flattened end wouldn't work as the hitch release lever and locking pin are below the main truck deck. You'd have to reach over and down and my wrists won't do that.

 

Where you have the square hole, I put a large nut but the 6 and 12 point sockets had too much slop so I'm welding a socket on the bar making sure it's facing the right way then use a 3/4" flex bar plus an extension.

 

Take the existing one off and make a mockup out of cardboard or Coreplast or 1/8" Masonite.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't have an ET either, but you could have an extension welded on the flatbar with a hole drilled or punched that is past the end of the MorRyde plate. Have a socket welded on, or have the bar angled to where you could use the Trailersaver squished pipe.

 

Try Ronbo's idea though. The socket may fit from the bottom side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Larry, the RV Park here has a woodshop which no-one uses so I've loaded most of my woodworking tools up there.

 

Get me the

  • length of the bar
  • measurement in from the end to center of the 2 pivot holes. Measure in from the far end or non square hole end.
  • lateral measurement of the holes to center from the left side of the bar. Front of truck side.

I will make a couple of mockups out of 1/4" mdf, full size with measurements, take some pics and send them to you. Will also put socket and breaker bar in mockup.

 

1 idea is to tack a 1x1 pce of flat bar to the back edge of the bar at the center hole and re-drill the bar. Re-drilling the hole 3/4 " to the rear of the existing one moves the handle fwd. I'll try different pivot point locations..

 

 

 

Also how far below the rest of the truck deck is the top of the flat bar? In other words is it dropped down in a recess b/w the frame rails?

 

This is an easy fix.

 

Send e-mail so I can send pics. I can have this done by noonish. You can post the pics and let the engineers critique it if you want.

Also send Visa # for design fees.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I created a handle that slips over the ET's release. It acts like an extension. Like Ronbo I use an awning rod (welded a real handle to it also) to pull the release and my homemade extension to move the flat ET release. Both of my "homemade" tools are about 24 inches long. I never actually get within arms reach of my ET to unhitch.

I didn't weld an extension directly onto the ET because when it airs down all the way a longer handle could hit on the bed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the MorRyde and ET but with the older longer handle. Will try to get you some pics of my tools to unhitch. One is simply a curved "hook" to grab the spring pin, the second is some rectangular tubing welded to a piece of bar that slides over the handle. Makes things easy. I think Rogers idea of smashing the end of a piece of round tubing so it would slide over the handle or Rick's breaker bar engaged from the underside would both work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the MorRyde and ET but with the older longer handle. Will try to get you some pics of my tools to unhitch. One is simply a curved "hook" to grab the spring pin, the second is some rectangular tubing welded to a piece of bar that slides over the handle. Makes things easy. I think Rogers idea of smashing the end of a piece of round tubing so it would slide over the handle or Rick's breaker bar engaged from the underside would both work.

Roger doesn't smash, uses fineness and skill instead. You got me mixed up with the wrong dude.

 

Big Fiver, could the handle be shortened so as not to hit the deck when hitch is deflated. We had to do that with mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't have an ET, yet, so I can't be sure, but it looks to me like you could use a 1/2" breaker bar in that square hole. Flip the breaker bar so that the male pin enters the latch from the bottom?

You're correct, that's exactly the intent of the square hole. the MorRyde plate extends over the handle, not enough space to attach a breaker bar. Also can't attach a breaker bar from the bottom because of the locking pin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a standard pin box with ET on truck. I have some difficulty hooking my pull handle to it. Barely enough. The hitch I got for my LDT used a brinkly head. Had longer handle. I liked that handle better. But a piece of pipe to slide over should work great and easy to make.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More pics. Roger, my "bend" takes care of the below deck issue. So far no issues in six years getting unhitched and I have the same MorRyde pin box. Just one of many possible solutions. Cost of tools about $15 for materials. Note my handle on the old style ET is slightly longer but still don't think that should be an issue. Might need bend in bar slightly further back along rod to compensate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like your lever device.

 

Even if his release handle was longer to get the square out from under the trailer plate, that would work. If there was room.

 

That's why I'd prefer to use a socket with extension and flex bar. I'm coming off in the horizontal....but whatever works.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Big Fiver, could the handle be shortened so as not to hit the deck when hitch is deflated. We had to do that with mine.

I went and took pictures of my ET and tools

IMG_0476_zpszorpgurn.jpg

The red arrow is pointing at the release handle. The hitch is totally deflated and that is why I didn't just extend the handle.

 

IMG_0477_zpszonkpv97.jpg

I also added a washer onto the spring release handle. No slipping off of that.

And by the way: MY ET handle doesn't have a square hole in it. See??

 

IMG_0479_zps6wvk6ohp.jpg

Both tools. The one on the left is an old awning rod. I shortened it a bit and added a real handle made of square tubing.

I cut, notched and bent the other tool from a straight piece of whatever that was, welding each bend/notch in place.

 

IMG_0480_zpsj7iefcj1.jpg

When the hitch is aired up, the handle of that tool is a few inches above the deck and a bit more level with the deck. Right now, the hitch is tilted a bit on the springs.

 

IMG_0481_zpstnugphv1.jpg

With the bends in the tool I can release the hitch without the tool (or my knuckles) hitting the deck mounted tool box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...