Volvo Air Dryer Core Charge

[bmzero]

I bought a new air dryer for my 2009 730 a couple of weeks ago thinking that was part of my problem with the air system purging too often. It turns out the problem was the governor. So, I removed a well functioning air dryer. The core charge was $100. If anyone has a bad air dryer and would like this one for $100, let me know. Otherwise, it will go back for the core charge.

 

If I recall, the cost on the new one was just around $350.

 

I can bring it to the ECR.

[Jim Gell]

I am having air issues that I wanted to find help diagnosing at the ECR. If you think it might fit a 2001 770, and you could wait until the rally for my decision, I may be able to put it to good use. Thanks.

 

Jim

[MrSeas]

If you don't already have one, pick up an air governor before you arrive.....they are very inexpensive and can solve lots of air related issues!

If you don't end up using it you can add it to your "spares" box!

Something else to pick up at a Volvo dealer is a supply of "push to connect" o-rings and brass colletts in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 sizes.

Most air leaks at PTC fitting can be fixed by replacing the o-ring.

Fittings on the "air tanks" also have a "sealing" o-ring that can be replaced to stop leaks.

[ICPete]

I just replaced my dryer because it suddenly started leaking from the turbo valve, so badly that the compressor could not build any pressure. When I took apart the valve, the bore seemed worn way too oversize to ever seal against the o-ring. What's odd is that it had been working on my last drive a few weeks earlier.

 

My original compressor had been throwing tons of oil since I bought the truck, and I had gotten a reman compressor installed about a year ago. So the air dryer had been living with all the oil emitted by the original compressor for thousands of miles; I felt replacing it was clearly called for!

 

I found a reman dryer at NAPA auto parts for $205 plus $80 core charge. Their part number is MBI 955205X. It was identical to the old one. I had to transfer all the fittings, except a new pressure relief valve came already installed. Also it didn't come with a pressure-controlled check valve (PCCV), which lives at the input port of one of the secondary air tanks. The PCCV looks like a bear to replace, due to the way all the tank fittings are assembled. I'm hoping the old one is still working.

 

Here is a photo of the new air dryer after I had transferred the mounting plate and the input flare fitting; I replaced the two tubing fittings:

 

 

I also replaced the governor, as I discovered the shop that replaced the compressor had NOT replaced the governor, but just stuck the old one back onto the new compressor. There was even a loose fitting, so it's a good thing I worked on that. I used all new fittings for the governor, as the old ones looked suspicious. I borrowed Jack's idea of installing a Schrader valve on one of the reservoir ports, as a convenient place to air up the tanks if one needs or wants to avoid starting the engine. Here is a photo of the governor just before I installed it:

 

 

Pete

[ICPete]

Brit, sorry for the hijack!

 

What I wanted to say was that Jim, you should take up Brit on his offer, as replacing the dryer is not a bad job, once you get under the truck.

Then you could give him back your old dryer, that he could take back as the core to get his core deposit back. So your net cost is maybe less than $100 (sorry Brit!).

 

Pete

[Jim Gell]

My problem seems to also start with a compressor that leaks oil into the air lines. I think the oil is causing failures in push to connect fittings and other components down the line (literally).

 

So if the air dryer fits, which I am assuming it is generic and will, I do want it.

 

I was going to take truck to shop in Ohio for compressor replacement after the ECR. I thought I would be informed at the rally of other work to have done at same time.

 

Would it be advisable to try to replace compressor, governor, air dryer, etc myself at the ECR where I would have supervision and access to tools I may not have?

 

Jim

[MrSeas]

You may or may not have the same air dryer as Brit has.

Gen I vrs Gen II and so forth. Governor is a pretty easy swap and sometimes the dryer can be an easy swap also.

Some fittings may have to be changed during the swap outs. Are parts available in the local area of the ECR?

Oil in air lines can damage lots of stuff downstream that may need to be cleaned or replaced. An air compressor replacement can get quite involved for lots of reasons. Don't know if this is a job you want to tackle at the ECR!

[Jack Mayer]

Pete, you will LOVE that Schrader valve if you ever need it.

[ICPete]

Jack-- yeah, such a simple idea; I found myself asking, "Now why didn't I think of that?". But the fact is, I didn't! Thanks for the idea!

 

Jim,

 

Your truck is very similar to mine and has the Detroit 60. I paid a shop to replace my compressor. It's very heavy, and the manual states some special wrench or socket is required for one of the bolts that is in an awkward location. You have to break coolant and oil lines, as the compressor is cooled by a coolant circuit and lubricated by pressurized oil from the engine oil gallery. So you would need to drain some or all of the coolant as well as deal with some probable oil spillage.

 

If there is any way you could get the compressor replaced BEFORE the ECR, then you could replace the governor, dryer, fittings, etc at the ECR. I suppose you wouldn't want to replace downstream components BEFORE getting a new compressor, as the old one would continue to foul the new components with oil.

 

BTW, the shop in Jacksonville charged me $444 for the reman compressor, but I don't know the labor portion as they didn't break down the total hours, and they did several things for me. I would guess the labor charge would be about 2 to 3 hours to R&R the compressor.

 

Anyway that's my two cents on the matter.

 

Pete

[noteven]

Are folks changing their dessicant cartridge on the dryer at regular service intervals?

[Jim Gell]

Thanks for your advice Pete and others. I don't expect to find time to get any work done on my truck before the ECR. I will probably do what I can myself with supervision at the ECR and make a list for the work to be done at a truck shop in Ohio that has been suggested by the owner of a trucking company. Maybe I can replace some downstream components myself after the shop replaces my compressor. I can decide that at the rally.

 

I was also thinking my truck was likely due to have the coolant replaced and maybe an annual oil change. It may make sense to do those at same time or after the compressor replacement to remove any contamination during that work. Does that make sense?

 

I have also been told that I would be wasting money to change oil once a year with under 10,000 miles rather than based just on miles, which could be 2 or more years, If I remember right it has a Rotella Synthetic Blend.

 

Jim

[SuiteSuccess]

Jim,

 

On the oil thing, I am under the impression that most people change their oil yearly right before storing their trucks for the winter to decrease contaminates and moisture not based on mileage necessarily. If I were driving the truck pretty much year round and not storing any length of time then would base it on milage. I run Rotella also but not synthetic and change yearly for storage.

[Rick & Alana]

 

 

Oil and grease are the cheapest preventative maintainance you can do. I change my oil once a year, we don't put a lot of mikes on these trucks. Sitting lets them create condensation in the fuel tanks and engine blocks.

 

Plus if you take your truck to a shop for an oil change (not a Speedco type place) they will look over your truck while they do it. Looking for problems.

[bmzero]

So if the air dryer fits, which I am assuming it is generic and will, I do want it.

I will throw it in the trailer and we can compare them there at the rally.

[JPL]

Pete, Was that $444 Labor and the compressor or just the compressor? Just wondering. Thanks, Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

[ICPete]

Pat,

$444 was just the parts cost for the reman compressor. The labor was on top of that; since I had several things done and there was no itemization for the labor hours, I don't know the actual labor cost for replacing the compressor.

And note that the $444 was my net cost, since they had my core there to return. Any core charge would be on top of that.

Pete