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Counter top induction works at home, not in RV?


Smitty77_7

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We're on our second Counter Top Induction Burner.

 

The first one we sent back, after we could not get it to work in the RV, as it would kick out an error code. (Never tried it again when we were in our S&B Vacation Home. Where it had worked when we tried it our when we first received it.)

 

The second education top we deiced to go with the simpler Burton 6200 model. It too worked as we tested it out in the S&B home. But when we got it out to use in the RV, it too would not work and we received an error code. Now back in the S&B home, it seems to work again...

 

In the RV, with both units, we tried two different circuit breaker supported outlets, with no luck.

 

On edit: The one thing I did not mention, may not matter, but this is an 1800W unit. Vs some that are capped at 1500W. Just more info sharing with that tidbit.

 

Any advice on what to look at as far as our coaches wiring, that would cause an induction unit to not work?

 

Country Coach

50Amp shore power

SurgeGuard 50Amp protector

Magnum MS2812 inverter

 

Coffee pot, toaster, blender, electric heaters - all work well on these outlets.

 

Puzzled I be:)!

 

TIA,

Smitty

 

And note: Coach is into the shop, so anything you suggest I look at, will be a few weeks from now. Just trying to get my mind around why an induction unit, two of them, would have a problem - when other devices seem to like the power...

Be safe, have fun,

Smitty

04 CC Allure "RooII" - Our "E" ride for life!

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Check the error code in section 6. More than likely it's the voltage sensor is tripping. Use a multimeter to ensure you have adequate voltage at the outlet, the outlet has no other loads in that circuit, and the circuit is on a 20amp breaker (trying it in the microwave outlet is a good suggestion).

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Thanks for the input and questions.

 

I have not tried the microwave outlet, but 15A should support 1800W(?). Can try that when we get the coach back to see if it makes a difference. However, I've boiled a few pots of water at home, one on a 20A kitchen GFI outlet, and the other on a 15A outlet in the living room. Both seem to work the same.

 

I have never tested the outlet power in the coach, but as mentioned, all of those other devices, inducing a 1500W heater, work well off of the two different circuit breaker fed outlets. But, will also check what the readings are when we get the coach back.

 

I have good pots for induction at home and in the RV. I also have the plate that can be used for say we want to heat up a pyrex bowl.

 

The previous unit's error code indicated overheating, but this would kick in within seconds of starting up. Talking with the tech support of the manufacturer, they said I should send it in for repair. I elected to take it back to the store I bought it from and get a refund, and they said they would return it to the company as effective.

 

The code on the second unit, is not referenced in the manual. I have not called their tech support for help, as it is working at the house. But will do so, and see what they say.

 

Just seems strange, that two devices that had worked at home. Then had problems in the RV...

 

Appreciated the help, best,

Smitty

Be safe, have fun,

Smitty

04 CC Allure "RooII" - Our "E" ride for life!

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The coach has the MS2812 Pure Sine Wave Inverter. (It's a full coach inverter, so not using an outlet that came specifically with this inverter.)

 

This has been while plugged into 50AMP Shore Power, but, we usually leave the inverter on 7/24. In case of Shore Power failure.

 

Suspect the best thing for me to do, is test the power at the two to three outlets that I have been using. Though again, the feed the coffee pot, heater, toaster, etc. gear - with no problems.

 

Glad I'm not the only one confused:)! I could see one unit being defective. But when the second unit would not work (This was now 3-4 months ago, when we tried it in Colorado, then put it away when it was not functioning.), but now has boiled a few pots here at the S&B - it confuses me.

 

Thanks again, best to all,

Smitty

Be safe, have fun,

Smitty

04 CC Allure "RooII" - Our "E" ride for life!

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You leave the inverter on 24/7? Am I assuming that it is an automatic switch over between shore power and inverter? Which has priority? In case of shore power failure? So what would the load on the inverter then be, and how long can the batteries supply that?

 

The quality of the power is where I'd put my money, and if the inverter is somewhere in the chain that may very well be your problem.

 

Not to mention the reduced life on your batteries.

Previously a 2017 Forest River, Berkshire 38A, "The Dragonship". https://dragonship.blog/

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Thanks for the input and questions.

 

I have not tried the microwave outlet, but 15A should support 1800W(?). Can try that when we get the coach back to see if it makes a difference. However, I've boiled a few pots of water at home, one on a 20A kitchen GFI outlet, and the other on a 15A outlet in the living room. Both seem to work the same.

Smitty

 

You're assuming that you have steady 120 volts from the park. If instead you had 110 volts incoming, that works out to a requirement of 16.4 amps which a 15 amp circuit can't handle. It is a real fine line when you get to the limit of the circuit. This is one of the reasons that fire departments all over the country are having problems with all of the new hair dryers that are 1875 watts - - most of the general wiring in older house is for 15 amp circuits and trying to run hair dryer on high can cause problems.

 

Barb

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Am I assuming that it is an automatic switch over between shore power and inverter? Which has priority?

 

If wired correctly.. and since it's wired for the "house" I would assume so.. his Mag has a built in auto transfer switch with shore power as the primary leg. If that's the case, I don't see how his inverter could be causing an issue since it's just a pass-through.

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If wired correctly.. and since it's wired for the "house" I would assume so.. his Mag has a built in auto transfer switch with shore power as the primary leg. If that's the case, I don't see how his inverter could be causing an issue since it's just a pass-through.

I agree..I have the same Mag. But I only ever turn on the Mag when I need it for boondocking. If on shorepower I have it off.

 

I am wondering if he possibly has a loose connection in that circuit somewhere along the way...could even be at the Mag.

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I agree..I have the same Mag. But I only ever turn on the Mag when I need it for boondocking. If on shorepower I have it off.

 

I am wondering if he possibly has a loose connection in that circuit somewhere along the way...could even be at the Mag.

 

Me too. Well.. I'm never on shore power.. a genny from time to time, but my Mag's always off unless needed. Off or on shouldn't matter, but every inline connection has the potential for a connection issue. If I was getting a power differential between the pedestal and my power distribution panel, I certainly wouldn't overlook checking connections on both sides of my Mag. Depending on where it's located, how long it's been in use, and what type of protectant (if any) has been used, it might just be a bit of resistance from oxidation even though the connection itself is solid.

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Thanks again to everyone. I'll get the coach back late next week, and try some of these ideas...

 

With this unit drawing 1800W, it may be more sensitive to lower power. As mentioned, the other devices work well.

 

And while boon docking, this MS2812 Inverter has done a great job of powering coffee, heaters etc. out of the same outlets I'm trying to use with the induction top. If I were to have a problem with the inverter, I would expect these higher drawing items would also have problems too(?).

 

I had had a Hughes Autoformer in the mix for the first year with this MS2812, fried on our trip to Alaska due to a campground running off a generator. While I have a replacement unit now, I do not have it 'always in the string' between the shore power > Autoformer > Surgeguard. If I see a need for it, now plug it in at that time. (Once in the last 8 months.)

 

I do leave the inverter on 7/24, so that if shore power is lost, the fringe will remain on. (Will start a new thread later on, on if this has amy impact on battery life.)

 

Will close the loop back if I find anything that is causing this...

 

Best to all,

Smitty

Be safe, have fun,

Smitty

04 CC Allure "RooII" - Our "E" ride for life!

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My portable induction cook tops will not work on my MSW 3000 watt inverter. They will pretend to, no error codes, fan running but will produce no heat at the magnetic pan. My inverter is also on all the time but as a pass through unless the power goes out and then it changes over to producing the power from the batteries. Otherwise it just keeps the batteries charged. Will be watching this topic.

 

Rod

White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors,  JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift.

1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022

2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top.

2007 Honda GL 1800

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The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. 

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You can leave the MS2812 on 24/7 with no problem. You can set the dropout voltage to a level of your choosing. I set mine for 95Vac dropout. At 95 Vac it will automatically switch to inverter mode. Is it possible that your dropout voltage is set to a higher value and is switching to inverter mode?

 

Everything IMO, indicates that your unit is running on inverter mode while the induction unit is running. Once the induction goes into error mode the inverter switches back to the shore power input.

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Everything IMO, indicates that your unit is running on inverter mode while the induction unit is running. Once the induction goes into error mode the inverter switches back to the shore power input.

 

With the MS2812 it's real easy to see if it's in inverter mode. All you have to do is look at the remote panel display and it tells you quite directly. FWIW I don't know why you have the inverter switchover set to 95V; I wouldn't want my fridge to see that low a voltage. My SurgeGuard will disconnect from shore power at ~102V and that's as low as I would like to go. I own a Hughes Autoformer so I can avoid having to use voltages that low.

 

Even if that were the case, that is no reason why the burner wouldn't work. The inverter is a PSW unit. My induction burner would never run with our previous MSW inverter, but it has no problem with our MS2812. PURE SINE WAVE means just that; there should be no way for the device to distinguish what it's power source is.

Sandie & Joel

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Unless the RV is hooked up to solid 30AMP, or better yet, 50AMP, I would not trust the incoming voltage to stay high enough to cleanly run an 1800 watt load. Some things are sensitive to voltage and/or frequency, or sudden changes like when an inverter takes over from shore power. Just hooking up to a 15 ro 20AMP extension cord won't do, the voltage will drop and the inverter transfer switch will kick in with a momentary glitch.

2004 40' Newmar Dutch Star DP towing an AWD 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid, Fulltimer July 2003 to October 2018, Parttimer now.
Travels through much of 2013 - http://www.sacnoth.com - Bill, Diane and Evita (the cat)
 

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I don't see how the current draw could be the problem. I just checked our 1800 watt unit with a Kill-A-Watt and determined that it only draws about 600 watts when on power level 5. The only time it could possibly draw as much as 1800 watts is when it is turned to its highest setting. There must be something else going on.

2000 Volvo 770, 500HP/1650FP Cummins N14 and 10 Speed Autoshift 3.58 Rear 202" WB, 2002 Teton Aspen Royal 43 Foot, Burgman 650 Scooter

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Um, silly idea but where in the RV are you putting it? I'm not familiar with the burner you mentioned but some of the newest models now have a circuit interrupt when a field imbalance is detected. The imbalance could be as simple as a ferrous metal object on the BOTTOM of the unit ie; set it on top of the installed propane range or one the metal range cover.

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