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Hayes Brake Controller Install - AHFHU


Jim Gell

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I know this has been covered in the Resource Guide and multiple forum threads, but I need a bit more "Additional Help for the Hard of Understanding".

 

My brake controller came with a check valve. Do I correctly understand I should toss it?

 

I tilted out my dash gauge panel and I see air lines. There is a black one that goes to what I think is a brake activation gauge. Gauge reads 0-150 and dials up as I press the brake pedal. Am I correct to understand that is the proper line to tee off to supply the Hayes brake controller?

 

Jim

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Jim, that should work for you. On the older Gen 1 trucks it Tee' into the brake light switch.

T'ing into the application line should be the same. Easy way to tell is to unplug from the gauge and plug in the controller. Air up the truck and see if the controller knob moves with the brake pedal being applied. If it does then Tee the line and install.

 

Not the guy Carl is refering too.

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Jim,

 

I installed a Hayes controller at the 2014 ECR in Crossville, TN. That black, 1/4" air line (to the brake application gauge) is the one that I tee'd into for the Hayes activation--both the foot brake pedal and the Johnson Bar activate the brake lights and trailer brakes. My Volvo is 2005 model and I wasn't willing to take the dash apart; so, I spliced into the line in the engine compartment and routed the new, Hayes controller air line through the bulkhead. [Oh, I still have that check valve...just in case someone needs one.]

 

I mounted the Hayes controller unit at the right side of the steering column, since that's where the previous controller was mounted. And, I had to add a 90° elbow at the controller so that the air line wouldn't interfere with my feet operating the accelerator and brake pedals.

 

If I can be of any help to you, send me a message.

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Like jack said.

On mine we put the tee in at the brake light pressure switch. On a peterbilt the switch is on the floor behind a kick panel that's behind the brake pedal. I bet Volvo is the same.

Also I have the Max Brake but hook up should be the same2CC921D9-0D62-4045-97D8-14BE094F4C82_zps

This is my switch you can just see the air line In front of it.

I took the picture For the purpose of rewiring it sorry doesn't really show the airlines but it's what I have on file. But at least shows you what it looks like on a Peterbilt sure a Volvo is probably the same.

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Jim you don't give yourself enough credit. I have seen some of your work and you are very capable. Just don't be afraid. You are asking a lot of questions and if you make a mistake we have plenty of time before the rally to get you straightened out. It is not a problem, it is a learning experience. We have all had them.

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Jim you don't give yourself enough credit. I have seen some of your work and you are very capable. Just don't be afraid. You are asking a lot of questions and if you make a mistake we have plenty of time before the rally to get you straightened out. It is not a problem, it is a learning experience. We have all had them.

Yeah Jim, what can go wrong? The worst thing that could happen is if you hook it up backwards the truck will go faster when you step on the brake, right? :D

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I would prefer to minimize the on the road "learning experiences". I should be OK with this one. But, like Ron said, if I do mess it up there will be time to get it right before we drive to Hutch. I am in middle of a couple other projects, and expect to get to this one late next week. I'll come back and let everyone know how it went.

 

I didn't see a confirmation in this thread that I do not need the two way check valve. But that is my understanding, and I am going with it unless someone says otherwise.

 

Thank you all for the help.

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You do not need the check valve in your application Jim.

 

The check valve is for the instructions...... IF you Tee'd into both the front and rear airlines at the same point, you would need the check valve to keep from back feeding one or the other brake systems.

 

Your not doing that.... no check valve needed.

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Mark,

 

My lines look a bit different than this resource guide Brakesmart Install photo. I am a little confused because my truck already has a tee where it appears one was added to install a Brakesmart in that photo, and I have not added a new T yet. The line that comes off my tee goes to my Brake Application Gauge. So if I am interpreting the Brakesmart installation instructions in the Resource Guide correctly, it seems like it would make no difference to install a second tee in the brake light switch tube, or put the tee in the Brake Application Gauge line. While I am not 100% sure I know which of the two switches in the photo is the brake light switch, I am confident I can ID the brake application gauge line.

 

Please note that I am not complaining about the Resource Guide. I would not have attempted this HDT venture without the magnificent resources shared by the experienced members of this forum, like yourself. I would like to contribute to those resources as I am able to. When I am done, I will post a link to photos of my install with labels on the lines and devices right in the picture. If you decide to publish my submission in the Resource Guide, you will need to be sure it is right though. The last thing I would want to do is pass on bad information on something as important as brakes.

 

So I can label it, what is the device in the Brakesmart install photo that looks like a switch to the right and behind the tee? What would happen if I mistakenly tapped that line? As Phil suggests, would it make me go faster when I press the brakes?

 

Jim

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Jim,

 

I am no expert by a long shot but G8r.Ray was the one I messaged and I see his response. He tied into the brake application gauge and this is going to give you a proportional reading which is what the Hayes transducer wants to see. So saying that is what I would tee into if I were installing since you can definitely trace it and you should be just fine. BTW I do not know what the other thing is behind the tee. Hopefully you will get an answer.

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So I can label it, what is the device in the Brakesmart install photo that looks like a switch to the right and behind the tee?

It is a separate switch on a separate air line that senses the parking brake application and turns on Daytime Running Lights among other things.

 

The brake application gauges are in the main brake line (red, green) reading the separate circuits. The Hayes should be connected to the brake light air line as that is the combination of the two service lines.

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If your looking for the brake light switch. And want to make sure you have the correct one.

On a peterbilt like the one I posted. You should see wires coming off both sides. Put a test light on one side key on and it will be hot.

Put the test light on the other side and it won't light up until you press on the brake.

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The brake application gauges are in the main brake line (red, green) reading the separate circuits. The Hayes should be connected to the brake light air line as that is the combination of the two service lines.

 

I think on my truck, the brake application gauge is connected by a black air line and my red and green air lines connect to the front and rear brake air pressure gauges that show how much air pressure is available in reserve, not what is being used.

 

Even if it's obvious, I hate to divulge my incompetence publicly, but I don't understand "The Hayes should be connected to the brake light air line as that is the combination of the two service lines." There seems to be somewhat of a consensus that I can use the black line that goes to my application gauge, so that is what I will do unless someone waves me off, in which case I will delay the install until I get the Nat'l Rally.

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Jim,

 

When I connected my Maxbrake, I took the black line loose and then had my wife step on the brake and was looking to see if the airflow increased with more brake pressure (which it did). I don't have either a trolley or application gauge. Do you have a trailer brake hand control (trolley brake or Johnson Bar) in your truck? And if so when you use it alone does the brake application gauge register it's application? If the gauge registers both treadle (foot) brake and trailer brake then it would be an adequate line to tap into for your Hayes. If you prefer to wait until the rally, I would be happy to help you and I'm sure others would also.

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Carl,

 

I have both an application gauge and a trolley brake. When I pull the Johnson Bar handle the application gauge shows the pressure being applied. I don't see how I can go wrong using the black line going to application gauge. Does that sound like anyone's famous last words?

 

Jim

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I can't say I would wave you off. But I do know your going to get the most accurate and fastest response from the airlines at the brake light switch seeing how that's at the footpedal where you're applying the brakes.

If you're unsure as to what line at the brake light switch you should be using take suits advice.

one line will have constant air pressure as long as you have Air in your tanks. The other will only have air when you push on the brake.

On my truck the airline was marked but that's a peterbilt.2CC921D9-0D62-4045-97D8-14BE094F4C82_zps

You can just see the splice I put in mine in front of the brake light switch.

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Carl,

 

I have both an application gauge and a trolley brake. When I pull the Johnson Bar handle the application gauge shows the pressure being applied. I don't see how I can go wrong using the black line going to application gauge. Does that sound like anyone's famous last words?

 

Jim

Jim,

I vote to use it!!

And that's my final answer.

 

Roger

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Jim - just a quick mention of the importance of using the right T. It should be a DOT Air Brake Approved T and not one you pick up at the hardware store. While it is now behind me, I learned this the hard way when the wrong coupler blew apart. Fortunately it was only the line to the fan clutch.

 

Being a Prime member of Amazon I order a lot of stuff from them (too much, actually). Here is a DOT approved "T" for 1/4" air brake line. T #1 . It is different than the hardware store variety. Amazon also shows the Eaton DOT approved T fitting that uses compression furrels rather than the push-on connector shown below. Both are around $10 with free two day shipping for Prime members. Don't know of cost of shipping for non-prime members but suspect it is a USPS Priority mail stamp.

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OR

81NUyYjQWjL._SL1500_.jpg

 

 

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