Lance A Lott

Every Milwaukee corded tool I have ever had is on atleast there second trigger. That said my friends truck shop has put there air guns away and are using the 3/4" Milwaukee I dont know if they have a 1" or not but they have several 3/4" ones.

I know several people who use 1 or 2 of them or the 500 gallon tanks made for pickups in there, I will call them 3/4 ton 😉, pickups for hauling maple sap with no issues. I have a 11 foot deck on a 630 VNM singled short and it would look funny but I sometimes think I should have made it 12 or 13 feet I am thinking of making a swinging spair tire rack on the back or mount a job box to the receiver hitch.

You said your planning your truck, have you considered adding a longer bed and putting the tank and some toolboxes behind the rear axle? You didn't give any description of the truck you are building, its probably in a seperate post that I missed, but someone said it's a HDT. Most folks put there hitch behind the the axle and down in the frame this usaly gives atleast a couple of feet of space for a tank, perhaps going across the truck under the frame. Nothing says that the hitch needs to be at the end of the bed. Are you planning to fill the tank at home or close to your destination? That might make a difference in design, there's a big difference between carying 1500 pounds of water 500 miles and 10.

I have used chain hitched to the tire, through the rim, many times to get a farm tractor out of the mud. It will work on a car or truck also. Not chain but a strap. If you have lockers it's easy if not then it takes more work. You can use 2 sets of straps, or cage the brake with the tow straps and apply the parking brake. I am hesitant to mention chaining the other wheel so it cant spin will work also. I am also very curious about the Tiger Claws, we used to put hardwood branches across the side of the tire through the tire chains it would lift the truck up out of the mud, got us out if the woods more than once, 3/4 ton 4x4 not HDT.

My fresh tanks are mounted behind my toolboxes at the very rear of the truck, one on each side of the frame they are 18 gallon each if I remember correctly. I have a 40 gallon black tank mounted on the passenger side under the frame beside the drive shaft this would not work if you have fuel tanks on that side. I have not needed to get a blader tank yet but I thought I would make a 2x10 collapsible frame when and if I need one.

I used 1/4 by ten flat stock for much cross members on my bed it gave me 1.5 inches more space between cross pieces, it has worked out fine so far. I singled short and put my gooseneck ball at 48", I would need to go measure to be accurate, behind the center of the axle then I decided to carry a Smart so I made a second ball 1 foot back. I saw no negative affect doing this. It is amazing how much better the trailer tracks with the hitch well behind the axle. You seem to be concerned with the trailer weight shifting the load to the rear, if I read correctly, a 6k pin weight 5 feet behind the center of the rear axle is going to lift approximately 6k 5 feet in front of the center of the rear axle 3k at 10 feet 1500 pounds at 15 feet and 750 pounds at 20 feet. I run about 8k on my front axle loaded. What surprised me was how much weight the rear axle was adding to the front axle I have the figures some where lol.

I was wondering that as well. I would do a locking differential for sure, my personal opion only but 16k pounds spread over 8 tires is only 2k per tire over 4 is ofcourse 4k and to me that's not much of a contact patch unless you run the tire at a very low psi.

I have done this 3 different ways now. Both my curent tanks are under my trucks, 1 ton flatbed and 630 VNM I had a tank on the 1 ton bed for years. With the tank on the bed I used gravity feed it was not fast but but I didn't have to stand there and watch it, it took about 10 minute for 30 gallons. The 2 under bed tanks have 12 volt pumps the first one was a regular RV pump so 60 psi and normal flow rate, the second one is high flow with a lower psi. The RV pump is very good for washing mud off bikes etc. As well as transferring the water it is plumbed to the tank with a ball valve and a pipe to garden hose thread adapter there is a backflow preventer screwed on at that point then the hose, the backflow preventer is available at any hardware store. My under bed tanks are about 40 gallons if I find I need more I plan on using a bladder such as this one. Water Storage Tank - Bladder - Bag - AQUATANK2 Stores Water For Your Emergency Water Supply - It Is a Light-Weight and Portable Water Container, Food-Grade Material, no BPAs (150 Gallon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ONFDE2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_56zbGbT7NK72S?psc=1 Homewerks Worldwide VACBFPZ4B Vacuum Breaker Hose Bib Backflow Preventer, 3/4 Inch, Brass Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046HA9S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d-zbGb24HT75D

I also keep comprehensive on my vehicles and remove everything else when I park them, my agent said it keeps the policy active and makes it very easy to put what ever else I carry back on that vehicle if I want to put it back on the road. I have never hat trouble getting insurance for my HDT but its insured as part of my farm as are all my vehicles, the HDT is only on the road 1 or 2 month a year so not very expensive.

It is my understanding that comprehensive insurance covers the glass, my new windshield 2012 VNM was under $200, and damage if a tree or building should fall on it or similar non driving event occurred. Comprehensive is usaly cheap I am surprised that they dont want to sell it to you with out all the restrictions considering it is usaly for parked vehicles. You didn't say how much the truck cost but a 20 year old truck I probably would only have liability on it anyway, the insurance company will usaly only give book value no matter what its worth.

I may be wrong in my thinking but if my truck was built to weight 38k on the rear and 12k on the front, when working, then that's approximately 30 percent on the front so I strive for nothing less and I dont like a heavy front light rear that's too much like bobtailing I think I am about 40/60 now when loaded. This seams to give me good traction, decent ride and good handling. I am singled short 182 inch wheel base.

Vern if you used a electric diesel pump with boat tank fittings you could just flip a switch for a few minutes each day and your trailer tank would stay full. No need for a return line that way. I think they make a valve with a float in it for use with a bed mounted tank that is gravity feed this would stop you from over filling your small tank. If you used a pressure switch it would even turn off the pump. A 2 wire flat plug between the truck and the camper and you could put the switch in the camper or atleast next to the tank if you wanted to watch it.

Glenn I am not an electrician but I have run my house, shop and barn with a 200amp service for 35 years. I used 0000 aluminium direct underground no conduit 1000 feet from transformer to the pole. I moved my house another 150 feet 34 years ago and spliced the cable. 5 or six years ago it just stopped working on one branch I had to splice it again. It looked brand new when I dug it up, the brake was not at the splice it turned out to be over a ledge, I did put the new wire in conduit over the ledge. The 0000 aluminium is hard to bend but it was less than 2 a foot at Home Depot the last time I got some. The only other issue is a little dimming of the lights when I weld.

I would presume, no first hand experience with one but that's what I would like I think, that with it down it would ride like a tandom with it up it would turn like a singled short and, in my opion only, might have more traction especially if the tandoms don't have lockers. I singled short and it may ride a little ruffer, hard to tell as I added the deck when I singled, but now my needs have changed and I am about as long as I can get without adding a tag, I will live with it a couple of more years before I decided.

If you put the 1x4 tube under the angle it will stick down and be very difficult to weld as it probably wont fit tight into the corner of the angle. Perhaps use 1x 1/2 flat backed up by the 1x4, I am assuming the floor will cover it, you probably won't need the 1x4 you could use 1x1 instead of 1x1/2. You could also replicate the ramp rack with steel welded into the bed this would at strength. 1/4" deck by its self would probably hold a smart I will try to send you some photos of what I did.

If the tire is more worn in the middle too much pressure if it's more worn on both sides too little pressure worn on one side alignment, cupping shocks. Just general rules of thumb.

I made a angle iron tray on fixed wheels my door folds down to become a shelf to slide it out on. I thought about heavy drawer slides as mine is a Yamaha 6500 but when this route instead. I made the front and back solid and the inside 3/4 high, so far it has stayed dry and I open the door to run it. I use chains to support the door when its a shelf and ajust the opening to a couple of inches when in use, so people don't walk into it with there shins. With a smaller unit I might forgo the sliding rack.

I mounted my bed metal to metal so far no noise or rust, I couldn't hear it from the truck anyways.

I understand a lot of the condensation comes through the wire, that would happen no matter the box unless the ends fo the cable are sealed.

Cluttered? The ones I have are just a waterproof box could be bolted down.

Military ammo box would work nice.

Kirk if you are looking for educational purposes check out Handy Bob's Blog he has lots of RV experience. Also http://www.mobile-solarpower.com

I have a gooseneck so I use 2 cameras on magnets one in front of the ball and one to the side of the ball, easiest I have ever found, I prefer to hitch by my self a helper is way harder than the cameras. When done I put those cameras a way and plug in the 2 cameras ment too watch the horses behinds in the trailer and the ones in the cars.

I understand that safety chains are not required with a fifth wheel but should they be used anyway. I pull a gooseneck and they are required with them, on my HDT they will be almost worthless as the front of the trailer will hit long before the chains become tight as they are too far up the pole, something I intend to change, but the trailer and truck would stay together. I wonder how heavy the chains would need to be with some pulling close to 40k trailers.

If you use a tire, mounted and inflated, as a pulley near the tree you can pull a small tree. There are lots of videos showing how and how not to do it. If you can back very close to the tree there will be little chance of ot flying. The wheel pully trick would make a front pull work much better I think.