Lance A Lott

I love my Volvo except it kills my neck. I feel like I need a neck brace, its fine until I hit a dip or pot hole bridge expansion joints can be bad as well. I also get very sore between my shoulder blades. I have driven school buses for 39 years and this never happened with them. I am wondering if it's the seat not being restrained at my desired seat hight, my bus has a strap that could be adjusted to limit up travel so I could put more air and so limit down speed. Any suggestions? I feel like some if those drivers on Ice Road Truckers who drove to fast for road conditions lol.

If you are going that far bobtailing then I would weigh the rear of the truck, maybe you already have, and adjust the psi by the chart on the Michelin web site, it should ride and handle better.

No rear window on my HDT and a L tank in the one ton as well, but the pipe helped a lot it was tall I could see the top over the tank and could line it up with a mark on the front of the trailer. Cameras are much easier and they are cheap. It still requires skill to follow the camera just like it does the mirrors. With the gooseneck its the 1 inch too far or short that gets you, it's not like a 5th wheel where you can bump it and know your there. And my truck hates to go 1 inch usaly 3 or 4.lol

I mounted my gooseneck hitch with 5/8 bolts and I drilled them all with a regular drill motor I didn't realy notice and problems, but I did start at 1/8th and work my way up to 5/8ths. But I would have used a mag3 drillmif Imhad one.

I had a pice of 2 or 2.5 inch plastic pipe I got some where with a slit in one end to slide over the ball it made hitching up much easier as long as I could see out the back window. It would pop of when I was in the correct spot.

The guys poo-pooing hitch cameras because they can use the mirrors have never hitched up to a gooseneck on an angle or uneven ground that's for sure. I have to admit I have never used a fithwheel but I have used a lot of goosenecks. When I built my first flatbed I put a trench in for the hitch when I bought one it had a trench. I use 2 cameras set at 90 degrees to each other getting in and out of the 1 ton was a pain doing it with the Volvo is worse, atleast with my belly lol.

I had to leave my 30 foot tt in the parking lot and pay a escort fee for my one ton flatbed. But that was several years ago. I know my boss has taken a Prevost bus through on more than one occasion.

I make the Y connection have for years, but what is the Z bend for.

At 10/15k a year your 100k estimate is going to be close to 10 years away and even I start to think about replacing tires that are 10 years old. I will admit to not being a Henny Penny about tire age. Although I currently live in the northeast and it appears our tires fair better than tires in other parts of the country, I assume because the sun never shines on them, lol.

I have noticed that campers tend to run wires down each side of the unit not around the unit, if the kitchen and bathroom sinks are on opposite sides I would suspect 2 gfci outlet runs. I have one hidden by the slide out you can use it when it's out but we don't as it would rip the plug out when you close it if it was left plugged in.

That would be a good thing. I was watching, well listeneing, to a guy trying to get enough charge into his batteries using, a construction generator, for 3 days so I finally went over to talk. He couldn't make them last the night, it was a rental, I told him to use his jumper cables and his car. He was sceptical but tried it. he came over a couple of, fairly quite, hours later to tell me that he had much more charge than he had been getting with the generator. This was a few years ago. My living quarters horse trailer is 10 now and it has a cheap one in it, I put a decent stand alone charger from Backwoods Solar in. But even that is outdated now.

You curent state really doesn't want you to give up residence they will allow you register and such even after you sell. You may have to have a friend or family member let you use there address for a little while. My parents sold there house 16 years ago have remained residents, paying income tax every year but have been out of state every winter since selling. They use my address in summer and there campground one in winter. Even there registration and such goes to the campground address if thats were they are. You have not decided on your new home yet so you are very legit in not changing anything for some time. Who knows you might end up back in your curent state after some traveling.

If you can get to the huck bolts with a cut off disk 30 second will usaly go half way through then hit it with a hamer a few times they snap off. You dont have to get tight to the frame nore do you need to cut the flange part of the nut.

Lead acid batteries expected life diminishes fast if you go below 50% charge. Very few built in charger/inverters are good chargers. An automobile charger plugged directly into your generator will do a much beter job in most cases.

Don't know if it applies for your state but I got a temporary plate from dmv when I went to register something because seller didn't fill out something on the title or didn't give it to me, 35 years ago so I dont remember exactly. Vermont doesn't title after 15 or 16 years so many vehicles without titles here. If I read correctly your vehicle is a 1992 so it can't be titled in Vermont but they will register it with no problem. I know that NY residents will register a untitled 16 year old vehicle in Vermont to get a legal registration then use the transferable registration to register it in NY and get a new title. And many states have a process to get a title if seller cant or won't produce one.

If it was mine, I would run 1/2", or thicker, plate as far forward on the frame as I could go, removing any bolts to reuse the holes, and all as far back on the ET as I could and as tall as I could and then incorporate that plate into the rest of the bed. Then I would probably put about 15 5/8"" grade 8 bolts in each side of the frame and then more on the frame extension. I don't know that you need all this but I tend to go big on such things. None of it ever brakes and thats a good thing. Almost forgot you would need to shim the extension out the thickness of the frame first. I can not picturre the bed you reference but many people put channel on top of the frame if you did this and bolted to it with my plates that would be realy great from my seat. I would add that most of the frame extensions are welded not bolted inplace, it would be a concern to me that flat bolting to the vertical wall of the frame give no real horizontal stiffness. With all that said I am only talking about what I would do to your existing picture I am sure it can be made sufficiently strong enough without welding but I would weld it anyway. Actually I would have that part welded and I hate to let anyone else work on my stuff. Lol

I make no bake cookies in the microwave all the time but I havent tried fudge, I think it would be easy to over do it. I have noticed that ,what I assume is atmospheric pressure, changes the boil over point from day to day and I assume altitude would also.

The.063 won't brake of course and it probably won't bend right away, probably not at all if its supported 12 inches in both directions and welded. But if you put anything heavy in it it could and I think over time it will sag, stretch really, so I think .100 is a better bet. My fore cart had 1/8 extruded metal floor that was not supported well, I think all around and in the middle. It never went anywhere.

If I was ordering one, especially with higher gearing, I would look real hard at the 14 speed I Shift and or a lower geared x and over drive. I would love a granny reverse when the wife says backup 6 more inches so I can see around that tree, trailer what ever. I also prefer the look of a truck that is the same or slightly lower than the trailer roof I wouldn't count the ac as part of the trailer hight when it comes to looks. That said my 630 is a little higher than my trailer.

I am in Vermont and looked into it, DMV was not very helpful. Registering as a RV is supposedly not difficult, but they finally decided that I would not be allowed to tow anything. They originally said no fithwheel but then decided not a bumper pull either. I am registered as a truck about $800 a year. As I am moving out of state I think South Dakota will be my next step. South Dakota will register by the month and as I only use it a couple of months a year I hope that will apply to me.

I am in the northeast and very seldom do I hear about tire blowouts, the only one I have ever had was in Utah on a very hot day, I routinely run tires into there teens and hardly see any whether checking. I have had trailer tires seperate the tread from the inner casing both times after a very sharp turn, in the same parking lot 2 consecutive years I wont do that again. I am starting to think the heat and sun is doing even more to adge tires than I thought it did. I am moving to Arizona this summer, with mostly new tires, so in 10 years or so I will find out.

Just Google Donvel valves they will tell you which ones. I did cab, seats and axle bags. The cab ones made a huge difference the others seem worth it but I didn't get to drive it before and after, I dont remember what came up but it was a couple of weeks so harder to tell. The cab and seat ones are installed by cutting the pipe, the axle ones you remove the fitting and screw these in then put the fitting back. They are not adjustable, I think they could be made easily but am not sure it's worth reinventing the wheel.

With a tandom I think you are going to want a heavier deck. A couple of removable panels would probably be enough. There is almost nothing outside the frame rails that you would need access too from the top and stuff like air leaks might take longer to remove a panel then to just fix. For the time and money you are contemplating spending you could pay someone to go under there and fix it for you and not have to front all that money lol. I put stake pockets on the sides of my bed so I was able to use 8 feet of steel and still get too 8 feet 6 inches. If you ran 16 inch wide panels, or 2 8", lengths of your choise, down the middle of the deck you would have access to almost every component under the truck. The rest could be welded in place. I did this across the front as my bed is 11 feet long so I made up the rest with a smooth plate at the front.

A couple of thoughts, from me they will be worth every penny they will cost you. Aluminium and steel dont play well together, stainless bolts are a must and so is isolating them from each other, my opion atleast. I felt that there was realy very little that I couldn't get to with the bed in tacked so I only made access openings behind the cab so I could get to the cab airbags and shocks. I wonder how many have realy found they would have gladly paid the price and the work to have access after they built the bed and not just thought it would have been handy?

Glenn my house has 3 wires coming off the transformer to the meter, 2 110 and a neutral, then a switch. The neutral and the ground are common at the meter. 3 wires going 600 feet, 0000 aluminium then a switch then to the panel the neutral and a ground are isolated at the panel. It's been this way for 35 years and I don't know if it's correct but I bought everything from the power company when I installed it. The only conduit used was at the pole into the ground. use a sliding conection, I didn't and that's a mistake at least in freezing country, and were it comes out of the ground and into the house and over a ledge that is under the driveway.