rpsinc

I believe they do. Another option if high current is a concern, is to use a timer as is used for lighting or sprinkler systems, that have a rotary clock and are rated for higher capacity.

OP-perhaps you have discovered why the batteries where on SALE!

Or use a plug in timer so that it will start the heater at say, 3 in the morning. Less energy consumption and still no fuss for the need.

Just goes to show you, if a man had the idea, designed it, fabricated the parts, assembled the parts to build a "shifter" then a smart man can figure out how to fix it. Hope you put a bit of lube in there while you were at it! Good job.

Way past my comfort level! You go girl.

I have decided that I am going to spray my front cap with bedliner material. I found a company that makes a product in white. And no waxing and re:Bugg Banner-no sandpaper effect.

Which model? I had a Select Suites and really like the floorplan with the island kitchen that nested into the kitchen counter. Found that it was the most counter space we had found. What we didnt like was the Level Up. Aluminum jacks and mounted at a slight angle, too prone to problems for my liking. Sold it and bought a Teton.

You may also consider using commercial EPDM liquid roof products(if you have access to them) to do some repairs or can also do a complete reroof after making the necessary repair. I have done a number of RV roofs, and for what you are looking to do, Eternabond is not in my opinion a lasting option plus most EPDM products dont like the cover tape, no adhesion to it from EPDM. You might also try using shower liner material, some home centers carry it and sell it by the foot (or polyester mesh embedded in the liquid EPDM). After the repair of the wood, use the recommended adhesive and then use an EPDM liquid coating, perhaps Liquid Roof, and build up many coats for a long lasting roof, esp. since you are fulltiming in it. Liquid Roof is a bit thin so many coats will be best, but if you have access to liquid EPDM commercial roofing(NOT ACRYLIC STUFF LIKE HD CARRIES, that stuff will peel off in travel) will be a better option. Your sublayer must be as clean and dry as possible. This stuff works well but does not stick to dirt or grime.

Sorry we will miss you all. Have a great time, we certainly did last year and it will be a lasting memory. Marcel & Roxanne Racine

Can also consider an MDT. I have been to HDT rallys, have a robust CC Dually with lots of power and can pull any trailer I own(Newmar Kountry Aire at 20K#+) but after considering the HDT and how that would fit into my circumstances, I was able to find a gently used IH 4700LP from an SKP near me. It has fit our needs very well and we can use it for running around when the coach is parked. It is shorter than my CC but also has a 4 doors and this one has an 8.7L with an Allison. We like it just dont use it enough, which is 1 of the criterias we had. A Class 8 tractor sitting in the yard wasnt conducive to what we wanted.

Not sure what the source of your issue is, but I have a Lippert system on my Teton and being it is out of any sort of warranty, I have been looking for the best local source to help with my weeping cylinders. I am greatful I dont have those pesky aluminum cylinders found on the DRVs(I owned a SS for a few years). I will be removing the landing gear cylinders from my coach and taking them to a somewhat local hydraulic shop for rebuilding. They also offer to do the removal/reinstall in their yard. Not sure where you are in Cali, but it might be a shorter drive than IN. And the weather will likely be better. PM me is interested.

Might it correspond with the pressure relief valve?

Also interested.

OH, except for 1 thing. The casino had the cheapest gas around and I purposely planned my trip to take advantage of it.

I just travelled past each side of that place and there is nothing interesting enough that I saw, that would have caused me to stop, let alone want to stay and RV there for any length of time. Just an FYI. But I guess that would depend on what your interests are.

I read many assumptions in this thread. #1- Size and capacity of batteries, #2- type of batteries(which will allow or not how much discharge they can handle), #3- what size and type of solar panels, #4- the other equipment relevant to the entire solar/charging system for the purpose stated by the OP, #5- RV manufacturers provide minimal equipment, rather providing pretty, shiny and many bells & whistles, rather than robust support systems. Since I am learning about most of this, consider this to be an exercise in IF I have learned what is necessary to be able to properly design a system based on its intended purpose. Any feedback?

Any input?

Just my perspective based on some of the same work I am doing in a similar path to you, NDBirdman. Enjoy the journey. I have read many reviews and comments on people that have gone the RV route and did way too much and got burned out. Too busy trying to see and do more than what is reasonable. I am taking all that advise in as a basis for what we will do when we get to that point. Dont be in a hurry. Enjoy the journey. RV people are some of the nicest I have ever met and since they often dont have pressing appointments to get to, they are not stressed but do give you space. I, for one, am looking forward to that change of pace/life.

I am not too sure that using ANY tire on a Teton will have ANY effect on the manufacturer, since they are out of business. As a contractor, we often are faced with specs that call out a MINIMUM requirement but substitutes are allowed as long as they meet OR EXCEED the original design intent. I ALWAYS use tires that exceed the manufacturers intent mostly because my experience has taught me that OEM tires fail more often than the replacements I choose, which are of higher spec'd capacity. I prefer it that way. Isnt the quoted info related to a dually set up as opposed to an axle with 2 tires, 1 on each side/end?? I have operated on the premise that a single wheel location was a 1 tire per hub, whereas a dual set up is more of a 2 tires per hub, as in a dually pick up or in my case my Newmar Kountry Aire with the dually tires on 2 axles, using 8 total tires on 2 axles.

By your description, we seem to have the same system, as far as the physical jacks. Front jacks are big and rears are 2.5" or so. Do you know of any documentation or system diagrams?

Kippers? Not sure what that is. Go to what page.

That drawing does not represent what I have in my coach. I have a pendant attached to a cable for operating the jacks. I understand about the coil, its an eletromagnet used to operate the valve at the pump for each jack. I talked to a hydraulic repair shop that is familiar with RV hydraulics and their recommendation was to bring it to them, let them troubleshoot it, but by my description, they are pretty sure my cylinders are weeping and need rebuilt. I am just not convinced in my own mind that it is the cylinders and not the valves. The valves are so much easier to get to and cost less, maybe I will try that first, which is why I was looking for a P/N on the existing ones, so I can get new ones, or maybe try one on the worst jack and see if it changes anything.

I've changed tires on the last 3 5ers I have owned. If I was to do it again, any rig close to 15000# would be upgraded to 17.5" tires and wheels. My logic in using my G Rated tires on deck over and hauler trailer has been to avoid blowouts and issues from being CLOSE to capacity. It has worked well and I have almost eliminated tire issues on my trailers(other than 5er), and so going to 17.5" would be in that same line of thinking. When I am using the 5er, I really dont want to be worrying about tire issues or any other issues for that matter. Thats is what preventative maintenance is about. My current 5ers are a 33' Teton not close to weight for G rated tires, so it has newer Hercules G tires on it, and the other is a Newmar Kountry Aire, ~20000# but with dually axles, so LT tires on that one. Much safer and not needing to go to 17.5".

They were not helpful to me. Kept telling me that the pump was the likely cause of my jacks weeping down. Needed to check the pressure at the pump. Interesting enough, I dont have a single problem lifting the trailer to hitch/unhitch or level. But after I have done that, the jacks weep down, so when coming back after a couple of days the trailer is no longer level. And when hitched, a couple days later the landing gear is nearly to the ground. I'm no expert in hydraulics, but doesnt make sense to me that it would be the pump. Still looking for documentation for LCI leveling system.

I have sold my aged out tires to guys for their car haulers and deck overs. I have used them also, but dont have any trailers to put them on anymore. Just sold a set of G614s, guy was glad to see they were in such good shape and way more capacity than we needed, which just made them safer. He was pretty happy about the price too. $40@