rpsinc

You go Henry!! The body might be needing repair but dont let that brain.

Can you provide direction as to where to find the info on the LCI pump and system? My jacks are weeping and its increasing. I was hoping that some trade names and part numbers would be the system, but nothing like that, just LCI on everything. I think the solenoids might be getting worn or maybe the valves. I will also replae the fluid as it looks pretty dark. Not sure what is recommended to it. I have a 2008 Teton 33' Experience.

Yes, I have experienced the same kinds of things. Instant gratification! Ask questions that are covered in the ad. I just sold some things on CL & FB, both the same because the same types of people use them. One guy got a DEEP discount and then after wanted my help to install and warranty, on used item. He didnt inspect it before paying for it, so his issue not mine. Kind of like the idea of people buying RVs and wanting an all encompassing warranty and then are surprised when the small print excludes items due to things not being done to maintain the warranty. Let the buyer beware! Read the ...

what else is there to say? Why ask a question if you arent willing to listen to the answer? It is polite to come back and say thanks much, my problem is solved.

Why ask a question if you arent willing to listen to the answer? Unfortunate that some come here for that.

Anybody familiar with Lubri-diesel. I used some Lubri-gas some years back, in a 350 Chevy and what a difference it made. Put it in the fuel and motor ran better, less throttle needed and boosted MPG by more than 10%. I know it works. Not had any experience with the diesel additive but have no doubt it works, if the gas additive works.

Nope. Clean the area around the holes very well. Make certain that there is no dirt left, should be white. Then use Eternabond. Should always carry some in the RV for times like that.

Being in industrial equipment maintenance and now an equipment installation contractor for 30 years, I have used many brands of tools. I have seen that Harbor Freight has stepped up their game quite a bit over the last 5 years and Craftsman has certainly gone through some turmoil. I use many tools from HF on a daily basis, and have found their impact sockets to be the best I have used. Their electrical tools, esp the Central line, are not worth buying. Craftsman does not have an extensive line of what I need but that may change now that Lowes has replaced their Kobalt line with Craftsman. I have some Craftsman hand tools that I got new over 40 years ago and I still use them. Of course, any tool needs some maintenance. As a welder, I dont buy any welding equipment from either brand. I do keep some tools in my MDT from HF, as the price point is good for the purpose. I suppose it really is a buyer choice. Your $ so invest it the way you see fit. I know I do.

I am comparing State Farm(which I have been with for close to 40 years) with what Miller can get on the RV vehicles. It will be an interesting experience it seems. Will advise.

Newmar X-Aire might be a consideration.

Chad, Congrats on what we had reported to us as a great rally. Sorry we couldnt make it. Life got in the way. Truly appreciated the T-shirts and the special gift though. Thank you to those who we missed seeing, hope to see you soon. My wife continues to improve from her accident and we are looking forward to getting back into our rig to travel. As for now, she continues to convalence.

I am running Hercules. Compared them with the Sailuns as well. Chose these due to availability. So far so good. Not heavy though.

OP-have you considered renting to try it out?

It is a good thing that you are proceeding cautiously. Lots of opportunity to be taken advantage of.

The last rig we bought, we moved our money to an account at his bank, which we opened for this purpose + $500. Then went to the local branch with him and transfered the funds to his account. He signed the title in front of the bank officer, and we left. Drove down the street to the trailer, hooked it up and left. Pretty clean and easy. I felt much safer doing it this way than doing a wire transfer or bank check.

Do you have to add air as the water is leaving the drum? With an HDT you have a supply of air handy. I have a trailer with a tank for cutting concrete, I also added a valve so we could pressurise the tank. It works pretty good but usual I run a pump. An old RV pump works great.

Interesting thing about kids. They learn from the parents. My kids(30s & 40)learned that they needed to be careful with water usage very early in life. We started camping with them in a tent trailer and moved from there. They all knew about water conservation and we did pretty well. Now they dont camp with us, but our habits have stayed with us and we still conserve, unless we are in a park, and even then we find ourselves being thrifty. Habits are hard to break and good habits can benefit you for your lifetime.

If the water capacity is the only factor to change rigs, then perhaps an aux tank or barrel when you boondock. Many use HDT tanks or tank locations as well as some other container like an inflatable bladder, used with a pump WHEN needed, otherwise stored. I have seen some pretty creative ideas/solutions to this issue. It is amazing what people come up with when faced with such a challenge. https://www.readycontainment.com/product/truck-bed-water-bladder/?attribute_pa_size=small&attribute_pa_potablenon-potable=potable&attribute_pa_baffledun-baffeled=un-baffled&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjLWQjfTI4gIVCh6tBh2FCAa8EAYYBCABEgLwrvD_BwE there are other options, but here is an example. Depends on your needs and budget. I have also seen plastic barrels used for dumping waste tanks, mounted on a hitch mounted platform with the necessary valves, and used so that the trailer never has to move. Just dump the trailer to the barrel, take it to dump station and then stow away. Pretty slick is bondocking is a regular things and you like to be AWAY from "civilization".

Sounds like you have a solution figured out Glenn

What about a skylight for service access? Attach it to the plywood box. Try Icon. I like the idea of it being above the roof and running the lines on the roof. Maybe put your solar panels above the lines, on short standoff brackets. That can help keep them out of the direct sun.

As to framing the cassette opening, yes, double joist it in the opposite direction to the rafters/joists in your roof. I will be doing some cassette installs in my home and I have trusses and my larger cassette in my 2 zone system is about 28" square, so in the direction of the trusses I can jsut cut the drywall but where I have to cut the truss that is in the way, I have to cut it back far enough to be able to add double framing(2X4, 2X3 or whatever is there) so as to support the load that I removed. And the cassette has NO STRUCTURAL WORTH. If you make your opening slightly larger so that you can use some plywood as a box, which will come down and act as a chase to hold your cassette(will you need any space above the cassette for air gap?). Dont forget about access for your line set and your condensate drain too. And the drain should have some fall, so that you dont over flow your pan and spill inside. A/C supply houses have some nice covers for these lines etc, made for dressing up the lines and drain. As to the electrical, you COULD simply wire this one as a stand alone sub with a cord, wired to 240VAC and a breaker. Later, you just plug that cord into what ever you will do in your solar configuration.

I know this might not work for your inmmediate need, but when I worked in industry, we often would run grease lines to a bank of zerks, using 1/4" poly flow lines. A common bank could serve many bearings. Perhaps this could help you in the future. Another option could be to use some 1/8" pipe nipples to extend the location of the zerk to a more accessible spot.

I would think that load weight would be the most impactful thing to tire wear, then perhaps if there is NO suspension, that might cause some bouncing and that could attribute to tire wear also. I would also think that the double wheel would fair better on tire wear over the single wheel. I find that this is similar to tire wear on my work truck. Dually with a service bed. Others seem to replace tires at 30K miles, I have over 50K miles on mine and still not ready for change. BUT, I do monitor tire pressure, watch my loading, dont over load the truck and drive at below speed limit. Maybe as I have gotten older and spent $ on things that cost me, I have learned a few things about how to become more EFFICIENT.

I have seen that website before. A bit pricy for me. I have a friend who built a similar device with the platform, ran out of $ before he could get the proper certs to sell on open market. His wheel assembly uses an air bag. Nice option for load balancing. Gotta get my hands on one to try it. He has a bunch in his yard, brand new, just sitting.

Easy on the barb throwing. Surely there is a message of the importance of safety in our activities of towing these big trailers down the highways. Even with the greatest attention to safety and SOPs, ACCIDENTS do happen, and sometimes others can influence the outcome. We can learn many things to help each of us by listening to the comments of others, as our individual circumstances are unique to each of us.