Chad Heiser

Yes, you can run your generator while driving.

It is definitely possible, but it is reliant on the capacity of the the main system being used to charge the other system. The main system would have to be sufficiently large enough to replenish its own usage and also the usage of the secondary RV. It is inefficient to go from DC (solar) to AC (inverter) then back to DC (converter in other RV) to charge batteries, so it would have to be a pretty robust system to keep two RV's up and running. I know of a few people who have large enough systems to do this (and actually have done it), but these systems are the exception in the RV solar world. Most RV solar charging systems are sized for the RV they are attached to and aren't typically large enough to also support a second RV. It would be much more efficient to have a portable panel/solar controller system with gator clips or some other quick means of connecting it to the desired battery bank. This system could be loaned or provided to those that don't have solar on their rigs.

I'll second the recommendation for Sailun Tires. I have them on my current rig and also had them on my past rig. Everyone I have ever seen or heard of who used them has been happy with them. They are cheaper than the competition typically, as well.

Roger, I hope your recovery goes well and quickly. All of you guys will have to come back to the WCR next year to compare scars and see who can run/walk the fastest to the pot luck.

I will go against the trend in this topic. Rather than saying straight out you shouldn’t do it, I will say it really depends on you. I very often here (see on forums) people say you will be very limited where you can stay if you have a rig that big. I agree there will be some limits, but you will not be “very limited.” There will be some parks/campgrounds you can’t stay in, but I guarantee there will be a park somewhere in the general area you will fit. It might require a drive to get to some scenic site, but you will be able to find a place to stay in your RV in pretty much any general area. This is just a compromise you will have to be willing to make to own a large RV. I own a 42’ 5th wheel and take this into consideration regularly. I have yet to go to an area that I haven’t been able to find someplace to stay. It may not always be my first choice of park/location, but most of the time it is. I have also been able to fit my rig into quite a few places that some people thought I could never get to (but this is related to skill and confidence that I have built over many years of towing large trailers). I do agree that towing a large trailer requires skill and an appropriate tow vehicle. If you are not willing to drive a one ton dually or larger tow vehicle as a daily driver, then you should not think of a 5th wheel of that size. Again, for me this was not an issue. I grew up driving pick ups and the bigger they were the better for me (a personal preference). Towing a trailer of that size takes skill and should not be taken lightly. If you are willing to practice and drive appropriately and carefully, there should be no reason you could not enjoy the experience. It may be nerve racking in the beginning, but I bet just driving a car was nerve racking for you when you were learning to drive. This should be no different. It will be a learning curve, but it won’t be insurmountable. Practice makes perfect, so go out and practice (if you decide to do it). Find a large empty parking lot and practice various maneuvers. Go to an RV driving school. Do whatever it takes to make you comfortable doing it. So with this information in mind, I say go with what feels right for you. If you want a long 5th wheel, go for it. Just understand what compromises you may have to make and make sure you are good with them. I personally would not be happy in anything smaller than what I currently own. I also would not be any happier with anything bigger. The 42’ fiver I have fits me perfectly and I wouldn’t change it (for now). This may change some day down the road, but I will worry about that if it ever happens. For now I am perfectly comfortable and happy with my large RV. I will add I tow my fiver with an HDT, but I admit it could be towed with a heavy duty pick up (3500/350 or 4500/450). My driving style would be a little different if I towed with a pickup, but it could easily be done and be safe. An HDT (or semi tractor) is not required and is definitely not for everyone. Go with what you think will work for you. You are the only one who knows what that is and you are the only one you have to satisfy. Maybe that means a large 5th wheel and maybe it doesn’t, but only you really know that answer. Don’t be dissuaded by people who don’t think it would be right or work for them. They are not you. You need to figure it out for yourself. Take in as much information as you can and make the best decision you can.

My trailer was not covered by the DRV recall, but I had a couple of bolts come loose (not out) that resulted in a loose rotor (also with MorRyde 9K IS). This caused the brake line to that rotor to sheer off and I lost brakes because all the fluid left my system. (Thank you HDT because I didn't even know I had lost my brakes until I got home and noticed the fluid on my rear jack.) DRV sent me out the recall kit. It included the same bolts and sleeves that were already present from OEM. It also included instructions that showed the use of red loctite instead of blue loctite that was used at the factory. The kit never mentioned red loctite specifically, but the instructions had detailed pictures that showed them using red loctite. When I installed the kit I used red loctite and then paint marked the bolts on the rotors so I could easily see if there was any movement on the bolt heads. This was a year or so ago and so far no movement. I did liberally use the red loctite though. It might be fun when I have to service the hubs later, but I will deal with that when it comes.

There are several websites that allow you to create a map and highlight certain states. You then export the file to something that can be posted in your signature here on this forum. Here is one such website (the one I used), but there are quite a few more. A Google search for visited states maps will get you more.

Congratulations Dave. I hope you have a speedy and relatively pain free recovery. I should be starting on your project down here in another couple of weeks.

Mine has built in GPS and sits on an arm attached to the top of the dash. The iPad actually hangs down partially below the top of the dash and partially above the dash (just in front of the dash), near the center between the driver and passenger seats. It gets a good GPS signal and has worked well for me in that position.

I use co-pilot on my iPad. It works very well and all the maps reside locally, so it works whether you have cell coverage or not. Your iPad does need to have GPS either built in or an external GPS puck installed. There are several versions of it with different options available. I am currently using the basic

Unfortunately the local DMV and whomever they called in Sacramento gave you the wrong information. I know it is a moot point for you since you are no longer licensed in CA, but I want the correct information to be given here. The applicable CA vehicle code section is 12804.9. It is a long section that describes all the classes of licenses in CA. The 5th wheel endorsement for the Class C license is very specific as to weights in this section. Here is an excerpt specifically pertaining to Class C Licenses (I bolded, italicized and underlined the applicable sub-section for this discussion): (b)(3) Class C includes the following: (A) A two-axle vehicle with a gross vehicle weight rating or gross vehicle weight of 26,000 pounds or less, including when the vehicle is towing a trailer or semitrailer with a gross vehicle weight rating or gross vehicle weight of 10,000 pounds or less. (B) Notwithstanding subparagraph (A), a two-axle vehicle weighing 4,000 pounds or more unladen when towing a trailer coach not exceeding 9,000 pounds gross. (C) A house car of 40 feet in length or less. (D) A three-axle vehicle weighing 6,000 pounds gross or less. (E) A house car of 40 feet in length or less or a vehicle towing another vehicle with a gross vehicle weight rating of 10,000 pounds or less, including when a tow dolly is used. A person driving a vehicle may not tow another vehicle in violation of Section 21715. (F) (i) A two-axle vehicle weighing 4,000 pounds or more unladen when towing either a trailer coach or a fifth-wheel travel trailer not exceeding 10,000 pounds gross vehicle weight rating, when the towing of the trailer is not for compensation. (ii) A two-axle vehicle weighing 4,000 pounds or more unladen when towing a fifth-wheel travel trailer exceeding 10,000 pounds, but not exceeding 15,000 pounds, gross vehicle weight rating, when the towing of the trailer is not for compensation, and if the person has passed a specialized written examination provided by the department relating to the knowledge of this code and other safety aspects governing the towing of recreational vehicles upon the highway. The authority to operate combinations of vehicles under this subparagraph may be granted by endorsement on a class C license upon completion of that written examination. (G) A vehicle or combination of vehicles with a gross combination weight rating or a gross vehicle weight rating, as those terms are defined in subdivisions (j) and (k), respectively, of Section 15210, of 26,000 pounds or less, if all of the following conditions are met: (i) Is operated by a farmer, an employee of a farmer, or an instructor credentialed in agriculture as part of an instructional program in agriculture at the high school, community college, or university level. (ii) Is used exclusively in the conduct of agricultural operations. (iii) Is not used in the capacity of a for-hire carrier or for compensation. (H) Firefighting equipment, provided that the equipment is operated by a person who holds a firefighter endorsement pursuant to Section 12804.11. (I) A motorized scooter. (J) A bus with a gross vehicle weight rating or gross vehicle weight of 26,000 pounds or less, except a trailer bus. (K) Class C does not include a two-wheel motorcycle or a two-wheel motor-driven cycle. If you are a licensed CA driver, you can tow a 5th wheel that has a GVWR of 10000 lbs or less on a Class C license with no endorsement. If you tow a 5th wheel with a GVWR between 10000 lbs and 15000 lbs, you need the above described endorsement on your Class C license. This endorsement is obtained through a simple written test. If you tow a 5th wheel with a GVWR greater than 15000 lbs, then you are outside the the Class C license restrictions and fall under a Class A license in CA. As long as you are towing the 5th wheel for recreational purposes only, then it would require a Class A non-commercial license. The testing for a Class A non-commercial license is basically the same as testing for a Class A commercial license in CA. The difference between the two licenses is the medical certificate required. The non-commercial medical certificate is a form you fill out self certifying your medical ability to obtain the license. The commercial medical certificate requires a properly licenses medical practitioner to examine you and certify you qualify. Most DMV and LEO personnel don't know this information (commonly) unless they have been educated on it specifically. I am a LEO in CA and have been educated on it specifically through trainings related to vehicle code enforcement. Above is the actual vehicle code to back that up. I do my best to educate others about this because I know it is not commonly known by even those responsible for issuing licenses or enforcing driving privileges. I know of many people who have gone into the DMV to attempt to get the 5th wheel endorsement on their Class C license and have been told there is no such thing or have been given incorrect information as Twotoes was. It is unfortunate, but it happens. The CA vehicle code is a massive document with many obscure sections that no one could know completely.

This is incorrect. The written test only is for an endorsement on the Class C (regular driver license) to tow a 5th wheel RV between 10000 lbs GVWR and 15000 lbs GVWR. Any 5th wheel RV over 15000 lbs GVWR (and any regular trailer over 10000 lbs GVWR) require a non commercial class A license (at a minimum) in CA. The test only endorsement is very specific and only covers 5th wheels between 10000 lbs and 15000 lbs. I can provide the specific CA vehicle code if you would like.

Yes you can.

Legally you cannot, but some people have gotten around that and gotten them registered. It will work until it doesn't (usually because of an enforcement stop).

Toyota Tacomas require modifications to tow. Nissan Frontiers manual transmission trucks are flat towable, but automatics are not. I recently bought a used Frontier and love it, but I couldn't find a manual transmission anywhere around me to flat tow so I ended up with an automatic. Ford Ranger manual transmissions are flat towable, I'm not sure about the autos.

I bought mine directly from TST. They provided very good service and I would recommend them.

Americana RV used to build Australian spec trailers (I’m assuming these would be similar or the same as New Zealand spec’s). I haven’t checked in a while to see if they still do. Check out their website or give them a call.

An inverter.

Ouch!

I agree with oldjohn that a true deep cycle battery is much better than any RV/marine hybrid battery. If all you do is go from full hook up site to full hook up site then you could get by with an RV/marine hybrid battery, but if you do any dry camping at all then you should use a true deep cycle battery. Since you plan to upgrade to two batteries, then I would also recommend going with two 6 volt golf cart batteries wired in series to make 12 volts. Costco sells a pretty inexpensive 6 volt golf cart battery that is a good battery to learn with (because it is relatively inexpensive and you don’t have to worry so much if you kill it). If you intend to do some dry camping, then I also highly recommend you get a good battery monitor that calculates true state of charge of your batteries. This way there is no guess work and you always know what state your batteries are in. You do not want to take a typical lead acid or AGM battery below 50% state of charge because it will greatly diminish the battery life of the battery. For a stand alone battery monitor, I recommend the Victron BMV 712. It has Bluetooth built in and will let you connect your phone or tablet to it through an app to get all the pertinent information about your batteries.

We had a similar issue with smell in our trailer. I started hunting for the source and realized there was a P-Trap in the washing machine drain line. It is a standard open pipe P-Trap. We don’t use the washing machine very often, so water doesn’t go down that pipe very often. What I found was happening was the water in the P-Trap was evaporating and allowing the smell to come up through the pipe. Now I manually poor a little bit of water down that drain pipe every now and again to keep the P-Trap full and have not had any issues with smell since then. This is a long way of saying, make sure your P-Traps aren’t drying out when your rig is not in use.

We love our Fisher Paykel dishwasher drawer. I ordered it as part of the purchase of our rig so I don’t remember the cost, but I am very happy we ordered it. It actually uses less water to wash a load of dishes in the dishwasher than to wash them in the sink. I don’t remember the exact number off the top of my head, but it takes less than two gallons to run the dishwasher. This has been verified by measuring the actual water output of the dishwasher. I have my dishwasher powered from my inverter sub panel so we can use it with or without hook ups. It is actually very power sensitive and requires a true pure sine wave form of power, so it won’t run on a non inverter style generator (like our Onan 6.5 KW built in generator). When I run it from the inverter, I run it in Eco mode which cuts out the heated drying cycle. It is nice to not have dishes piled in the sink. Everything goes directly into the dishwasher (after being wiped of large chunks with a paper towel) and then it gets run when it is full. We do still wash some large pots and pans by hand periodically, but mostly the dishwasher gets used (whether we have hook ups or not). I don’t think we will be without one from now on.

There is also a world class reptile garden in the area (whose name escapes me right now). It is a very interesting site and I definitely recommend it if your going to be in the area for a while.

This is a difficult question to answer in detail without more information. I have a day of seminars on this topic broken down into three main presentations. The first presentation is all about batteries. The second presentation is all about inverter’s. The third presentation is all about solar. Any good boondocking rig will have a combination of these three things, plus access to a generator (typically). How much battery, how big of an inverter (and how it is wired) and how much solar are dependent on many variables. The batteries are the storage tank for the energy to be used. The inverter takes that stored DC power and inverts it to AC power to allow you to run household appliances like a coffee maker or microwave or hairdryer or whatever. The solar harvests power from the sun and replenishes the batteries to allow the power cycle to repeat. A generator is good to have in case of inclement weather for a long period where solar can’t harvest enough energy. Without getting too deep into the weeds of this, we need to have a better idea of what you plan or would like to power, both 12 volt DC appliances (like lights and typical RV stuff like a water heater, forced air heater and RV refrigerator) and AC appliances (like the ones mentioned previously or others). With some general information about this, I can make some general recommendations about your needs. As to an installer in the area, someone else will have to chime in because I do all my own work and don’t have any experience with installers in the area.

Ditto on the back of the basket with a light. If you were asking about CA, I could give you the code section that applies. I don’t know Tennessee codes, but I would be willing to bet they have something similar.