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Darryl&Rita

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Everything posted by Darryl&Rita

  1. Thank you, Rocky. Motion passed. Congratulations, Jim.
  2. Off the top of my head, sounds like prime real estate for the purpose.
  3. I did a Google search for MNDC-GF breakers, the first hit was Midnite Solar's own page. Under the "Documents" tag, there's a "Manual" link to a PDF drawing, stating the 2008 NEC first required these breakers. The accompanying drawing shows a ground mounted solar array, with the breaker in question installed between the array and the charge controller. They also show separate, not linked, breakers inline, between the controller output and the batteries.
  4. Or a bunch of smaller ones.
  5. I nominate Jim for the position of AutoShift expert. Can I have a second.
  6. It ain't passing gas, or slower traffic, or kidney stones. Just sayin'. Yes, it must be passing air, due to a bad sealing surface inside the valve.
  7. Once any air bag is up to pressure, the leveling valve will isolate it from the rest of the air system. Assuming no leaks in the valve, or the bags, or the connections between, then the bags will stay up. If the system leaks down, and the valve passes, the bags will flatten. If the system maintains pressure, but the bags or their lines pass, the system will flatten, then the bags will follow. In your case, the suspension system would appear to be leak free, while the cab system is suspect.
  8. Push the airline into the fitting. Wait for leak to appear. Not if, when. These fittings only exist to speed up the assembly line.
  9. If you have "Push to Connect" fittings, release the air pressure, push the locking ring into the fitting with an open end wrench, push the line into the fitting, pull the line out. Check the air line for scratches or external damage in the sealing surfaces. Most of the fittings have removable/replaceable o-rings and colettes that may be needed if the line isn't showing damage. If you have fittings that require wrenches to tighten, congratulations, you don't have leaks there.
  10. Fix them yourself, you'll go broke feeding a shop. Yes, that's a big leak (or multiple) to cycle that often.
  11. Straight from the horse's mouth, CBSA. The link is to a PDF, with bear spray being covered on page 11 &12.
  12. If it's on FB, it has to be true. But, yes, GoodYear has plants in China.
  13. Some rigs have a separate "Idle Speed" button. It will hold incremental idle increases, regardless of clutch, brake, or cruise inputs. It MUST be used sparingly, and by an experienced operator, because it also affects Jake brake effectiveness.
  14. Chico is a product name that is becoming a generic name, like Kleenex. It's a mortar based product that hardens to a cement-like consistency. Little different than Silley-Putty.
  15. If you had to repair that many wire chafes and damage, there's a very good chance the voltage doubler is unhappy. Looking like time to drop some coin.
  16. #2 proves both #1, 3 , & 4 are satisfied. Also proves input to ECM is good. Do you have a separate idle-up button? It's looking like a programming issue.
  17. Time to get it out and drive, then. Brad has the right idea, as that model doesn't use a pressure switch, it has a mechanical switch to turn the cruise off. When it cuts out, lift the pedal with your toe. If this prevents a recurrence, look at the switch adjustment, or replacement.
  18. Breaker tripping, or GFCI tripping? There's a different solution for each.
  19. There's another common point. The brake air line should have 2 pressure switches, one NO for the brake lights, and one NC to tell the ECM to disconnect the cruise.
  20. What's your battery voltage at, when the problem is happening? The AutoShifts are incredibly sensitive to low voltage. The only time we've had problems, a battery was headed out.
  21. All good, Ray. We've both been around here long enough to know better.
  22. The dies in the Harbor Freight kit were so badly undersized that a #2 wire wouldn't fit into the #2 dies. I wrote it off as typical Harbor Freight. When I was looking, last winter, all I could find was part numbers and colour codes, related to cable size, not dimensional sizes. This included Burndy's website, as I use their products at work. Even the literature inside the case only references wire size.
  23. Thanks, Ray. Not like I wasn't already called out on it.
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