Darryl&Rita

Not true. There's two versions of clutches on the 453.

That's a bummer, Glenn. I'm betting the clutch actuator went, but the clutch itself should be checked now, too. Keep us in the loop.

What year? Given the flood, if the clutch actuator wasn't changed, now's the time. Easiest to change, among all the other clutch parts, and most likely to fail following wet conditions.

Check the temperature where the thermo fuse is mounted. Determine whether you have a temperature problem, or a hardware issue.

Wash your hands. Often.

Some news: Jalopnik. The conflict has been brought before the ITC.

What about moving company tractors, with the extra moving box behind the sleeper?

Up, not back, Rickeieio.

The RT is 111.5 inches. Longer than a smart car by a country mile. Angle loading time.

Load at an angle, side to side.

Short run, theoretically protected from physical damage, and another set of connections to cause a "hood up" problem. Would raise the cost of a new truck by another $20, too.

Depends on what you need. Air bags, shocks, and the like are nearly universal. Cummins parts, ditto. Eaton transmission and differential parts are widely available. Volvo engine and transmissions, not so much. NAPA, Traction, even O'Reilly's carry lots of HDT parts. There's even Amazon.

👍👍

That's a really cool project, Vern. I've contemplated black powder, but I don't have 40 years to stretch out the build. I may have to buy ready to shoot.

I firmly believe that wind is inferior to solar in cost, efficiency, and payback. As far as ease of use, now that panel prices have come down, and tilting is as common, solar wins.

I've said the same thing, in more than one thread, but I'm quoting it to make sure that some eyes see it again.

John, he's talking about using a household ceiling fan. Externally mounted, and not an "In the hatch" RV fan. Probably faster to try to adapt an alternator, than to adapt magnets to an induction motor, but he's bored.

For the most part, different fuse types denote differing mounting/connection styles. Fuse trip characteristics (speed of trip on over current, arc containment, etc) also come into different fuse designations. ETA: A Type T fuse is rated for 20000 amp current capacity, but isn't rated for DC voltage. This means that the fuse body will contain a 20000 amp short, without bursting or burning. This rating is only valid for an AC circuit, and no ratings are published for DC circuits.

Ding ding ding!!! Winner! The fuse or breaker is only there to protect the wiring and the structure the wires are attached to. The motor should be protected by another device, whether a thermal switch, overload, or a current detector circuit.

You definitely need full cranking speed to fire. It should spin over at 150 RPM, minimum. Get that corrected, first. ETA: With a 50 amp boost helping the batteries, it's time to look at the wires and connections, as well as the batteries.

Description of issues? Does it spin over at the same speed? Does starter speed change during cranking? When was the last time the oil was changed? Oil level checked?

But what does what?

Don't fuse just the negative lead. Just don't. Mount the fuse or breaker as close as possible to the source (battery). Fusing only the negative will negate any protection for the positive wiring.

Buckle up, and sit down in the Way Back machine. Way Back