Darryl&Rita

Good call, Scrap. I forgot that chapter. I'd make that #1, with a bullet.

Think it's his rig.

Yup. Prioritize the expenses. Get all rubber under the truck checked. Hoses to the brake pots, cooling hoses, heater hoses (including the steel lines to the sleeper), cab air bags, suspension air bags, etc. Get the air leaks fixed. Get the suspension squared away. Tires are a finite life item, no point spending money to sit on.

Just be aware, you can still have an accidental release via the valve on the side. Keep propane outside! There's a reason the tank cabinet has an open floor.

Global Edmonton news Don't bring Propane inside with you.

Now we can narrow a smaller leak down. It's either upstream of the cab leveling valve, downstream, or the valve itself. Were it my truck, I'd remove the air line from the input to the leveling valve, and cap it. Pressurize the system and monitor. Gauge still drops, you have a leak upstream. Gauge holds? Reconnect the input, and cap the output. Pressurize, monitor. This will test the leveling valve, itself. If it passes, then the leak has to be somewhere on the bags.

That box in your picture has a lot of lines, in a lot of different colours, for a juice brake truck, but I'm not sitting in front of your dash.

I feel your pain. That was me, last summer. O was encountering a fuel starvation issue. My fuel line routing was infinitely simpler than yours. Still took the better part of a day crawling around under the truck.

Good job, Roger.

Gotcha, Sigs don't come through on the mobile version. Personally, PM's a excrement methods of communication. If I don't like something about you, II'll tell you face-to-face. But I don't, so we good.

What picture?

Quickest way to go broke? Go trucking. The $$$ isn't there, like even 5 years ago.

Emphasis added. My fan is air to cool, N 14 Cummins.

He wants to go 80 miles, to go camping. With an air leak. Multiple air leaks, I'd guess. One to one and a half minute cycle time is excessive. Hard on the compressor, if nothing else. Get much more leakage, you'll lose suspension (rear axle, cab, and seats) engine cooling, and anything else air related. Get it fixed, first. Lose the rear air suspension and limp any distance? Time to look into new driveshaft u-joints. Air bags don;t like being bounced on with no pressure, so might need to replace those. The suspension stop blocks aren't meant to drive on, either. Get it fixed, first.

If you have compressed air, you have leaks. As an owner/operator, it's your job to minimize the effects of the leaks. I blew out a rear brake line 20 miles from town. Do I crawl underneath, and cage the brake affected, plug the leaking line? Or should I haul a$$ for town, and get to the closest shop before the hose completely parts? The rain made the decision for me, made the run with the "Low Air Pressure" alarm in my ear. Pulled in, set the brakes, and air started building pressure again.

As a PS to yesterday's post, my list wasn't anything close to a proper pre-trip, or "brake service". This only covered draining the tanks, which should be done regularly.

1. Lay down, on the ground beside the rig 2. Look up, at an angle to see underneath the rig 3. Find air tanks 4. Pull tank drain lines 5. Failing t find drain lanyards, find drain valves at low points to determine if you have remote drains, or not 6. While under there, locate dryer 7. Use strap wrench to remove cartridge, and replace with a new one 8. Clap hands aggressively after standing up, to remove dust 9. Repeat step 4 regularly

Any article with numbered "reasons" to do/don't do anything get a firm "Nope" from me. Instant sign of hack writing.

Repeat after me; "No, but my shopping for a replacement has been delayed due to the current Covid-19 restrictions at the dealerships"".

That's what OP was looking for, just in a different location.

4 big nuts to remove, possible seized rubber bushings, all under the deck of a truck with limited access. Sounds about right. A shop should be quicker, but I'd still expect 2. Most shops quote work by "Book Rate", but our unique bodywork and decks mean the "Book" doesn't apply to us, so be ready for a higher bill than the original estimate.

Almost in your backyard. Westgate RV Park

I've been too busy to get into the NEC, but at some point I probably will. Help me get to sleep, if nothing else.

I believe the "plastic piece" is the thermistor. It's used in temp control of the ice box, and thus the refrigerator. If it fails, the fridge goes into maximum cooling mode. There is a test available, if you have a test meter.

Right you are, Rick. That's part of the surface wear/damage I was referring to.