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About TreyandSusan

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/19/1963

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    Austin, Texas

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  1. TreyandSusan

    Texas Class A or B License Upgrade FAQs

    Took me less than five minutes to renew my Class A at the Texarkana License office - no lines. Eye Vision test, pay and out the door. I already had the form completed before arriving. Instructions for Renewing at an office with links to needed forms (See the bottom of the page for forms and ID needed to renew in an office) Out of State Renewal - eye exam still needs to be done
  2. TreyandSusan

    Smart Car Air Conditioner Problem

    A recent thread that discusses similar issue.
  3. TreyandSusan

    OT - Coronary Artery Disease

    If you pass through Austin, Texas you can get the Heart Saver CT Scan Carl mentions done for $75. FAQ for the issues Carl also mentions.
  4. TreyandSusan

    Our forums have been spammed!

    Next thing to do is to delete the user account.
  5. TreyandSusan

    Axle spacing on Heartland 4100 King.

    Dexter axle minimum tire spacing is 1 inch. MorRyde IS minimum tire spacing is 3/4 inch.
  6. TreyandSusan

    smart car dimensions

    Specifications Graphic Click For Full-Size Image.
  7. Map - Average Temperatures by month NOAA - Climate Map
  8. TreyandSusan

    Walmart in Chatanooga

    RVParky Info on Walmarts in the area AllStays Info on Walmarts in the area Both seem to indicate that the Walmart at 3550 Cummings Hwy might be the better option
  9. TreyandSusan

    Need some Autoshift Information

    You're right both posts are regarding John Bagley's truck, sorry for the duplicate information.
  10. TreyandSusan

    Need some Autoshift Information

    Here is another thread that also indicates the reverse ball switch.
  11. TreyandSusan

    10 Speed Autoshift ain't so Auto any more

    BIG Difference - 8 years ago when we first started out we got the clutch replaced. We have the exact same truck as Paul and Paula (even the same color). We got the EZ clutch with manual adjustment just like Paul is doing. At that time the clutch replacement was about $2000 It was well worth the cost for us. Susan loved the difference and made it significantly easier for both of us to drive. At the time we were newbees. We got it done in Colorado Springs (at our now favorite mechanic). Jack (Mayer) felt the clutch before we had it replaced and then after we had it replaced and his comment was that before is was one of the hardest clutches he had felt and after it was one of the easiest clutches he had felt.(this was at that time - Jack is very kindhearted and he might have just been making us feel better after having spent a few thousand dollars 😉) The best is/was Dave Matson's air assisted clutch which is fabulous. (As well as RandyA's homebrewed power assisted clutch)
  12. TreyandSusan

    Trojan T-105 vs T-105 Plus

    You may also check with the flow-rite folks to get the right kit for the T-105. We do have the non-plus version of the t-125 batteries AND we have the non-manifold version of the pro-fill kit, and we have the hand pump which was sold separately. So we just have the cell valves and we cut the provided hose to fit between each cell valve. (Our bank is a 6 6-volt group 31). We got this for flexibility. They have little swivel tees on top to connect the hosing and red caps to close off the unused connection on the tees. I think we ended up purchasing the Pro-fill system from camping world because they had the best price. But amazon and powerstride batteries were other online locations for the system. Pro-fill catalog Link - page 33-34 discuss the various valves. page 32 describes the part number code scheme so you know what you are getting online (sometimes the pictures do not match what they are selling) I think the big difference with the pro-fill is that if you have the Plus version of the Trojans you must to get the valves that do not have the yellow protective shroud on the bottom of the valve, because the cell holes are tapered and the shroud would not allow the valved to seat in the hole. (so for the T-105 you can probably used either the shrouded or non-shrouded valves - this might be a good question to ask the pro-fill folks).
  13. TreyandSusan

    Tire pressure question

    The chart is in pounds and psi. psi across the top and pounds for the tire loads. I think you may not be understanding what I am saying so I will try again. This chart is for the "bigger" newer tires not the older original tires. What I have done is to show you what the manufacturer would have likely done for the sticker if they would have put these "bigger" tires on originally. "Bigger" depends on what you are talking about but that is a whole different discussion. what we care about now is these tires and what would be the equivalent manufacturers recommended inflation pressure had they used these tires. For motorized vehicles this sticker inflation pressure is almost always set to provide enough load to carry the gross axle weight rating (GAWR). These "bigger" tires have pretty much the same load capacity as the original tires, maybe just a little bit more. Who knows why they installed these tires because they would have had to also upgrade the rims as well. Another thing that is needed to understand is that what is on the sidewall of the tire is not necessarily the inflation pressure you are supposed to use to inflate the tires on a given vehicle. What the sidewall says is the maximum load capacity of the tire and the inflation needed to carry that load. For this specific tire that would be Single 4675 lbs and in order to carry 4675 lbs you would need 110 psi. With Dual tire configuration the load is reduced so that is why the Dual max load is 4410 for each tire and to carry that load you would need 110 psi. The original tire 245/70R19.5 the load capacity was probably Single 4540 at either 110 psi or 100 psi depending on the specific tire that was used in 2006 when the chassis was produced and provided to Forest River For the inflation table below, the single line is for each tire in single configuration. The Dual line is for each tire in Dual configuration. The Dx2 is for the wheel position for the Dual pair or the dual load times 2 since there are two tires for a dual wheel position. The front axle would use the single line because the tires are in single tire configuration (one tire on each end of the axle). For a fGAWR of 7500 lbs., each of the two tires would carry half of the axle load or 3750 lbs. The inflation for one tire in single tire configuration to carry 3750 lbs is 80 psi. (3860 lbs). 75 psi would not be enough because it will only carry 3645 lbs. 85 psi would carry 3975 lbs. 80 psi would likely be the sticker inflation pressure if these "bigger" Michelin XRV 235/80R22.5 tires were used. The rear axle is dual tire configuration or 4 tires across the whole axle. With a rGAWR of 14500 that would mean that one pair of the dual tires would be assumed to carry no more than 7250 lbs (14500/2=7250) OR each dual tire would carry 3625 lbs (14500/4=3625). So, the inflation needed for these dual tires to carry the rGAWR would need to be 90 psi. 85 psi would be a little too low (7230 lbs for the dual pair or 3615 lbs for each dual tire). The equivalent recommended sticker inflation pressures for the front and rear GAWR using this "bigger" tire would be 80 psi for the front and 90 psi for the rear. Getting a weight at a platform scale is a good thing but there is an issue with using axle weights and adjusting the inflation to fit the axle weights. RVs have a higher tendency to have greater side to side weight differences. This means if you assume that the weight at each end of the axle is half of the measured axle weight and inflate to that number, then you could be underinflating a tire (or tires in dual configuration) on one side of the axle. The safest thing to do until you can get wheel position weights is to go by the RV manufacturers recommended inflation pressure which would normally be found on the Federal Certification Sticker. In your case this recommended inflation was based on a completely different tire than you currently have and that tire had a completely different load capacity and inflation table. With the new ("bigger") 235/80R22.5 tires you now have these equivalent sticker inflation pressures which would be 80 psi on the front axle tires and 90 psi for the rear axle tires. This is what you asked for in the original post. One advantage of getting platform scale weights (CAT scale) is that if you find an axle weight that is at or exceeding the capacity you can increase the inflation pressure by 5-10 psi. Of course it would be good to try and reduce the load on the axle. You now know that because you have an RV it is more likely that you could have a greater difference in axle end (wheel position) weights. So, if your axle weight is near, at, or exceeding the GAWR then you would need to increase your inflation pressure IF the tire load capacity and inflation chart allows you to go higher, which this tire does allow. On a motor home, when you are able to get weighed by wheel position then you would use the heaviest wheel position on that axle for the determination of the inflation pressure. You would need to use the correct inflation table for that specific tire and then you would find the minimum cold inflation pressure based on that heaviest wheel position for that axle. Then for reserve capacity add 5-10 psi and inflate the tires on that axle to that pressure. (Trailer tires are done a little differently)
  14. TreyandSusan

    Tire pressure question

    The thing that you need to do is get wheel position weights with your RV loaded as soon as you can. Then you will really know what to do with the newer tires. It is hard to know exactly which tires were original. A good/probable guess would be the Goodyear G670, however that would still be a problem because this specific tire changed its load/inflation significantly over time. There were two versions of this size for this Goodyear model tire (now there is only 1 version). So, knowing the exact loads:inflation for the original tire are not possible, because we do not know the original tire. Therefore, making a comparison based on the original tires is not possible. So plan B... The large majority of the time the RV manufacturer for motorized vehicles provides recommended inflation pressure by providing enough inflation for the tires to exceed the load capacity for the GAWR (front and rear). Therefore, knowing the front and rear GAWR would help to provide the same estimation that the manufacturer usually does. The Load inflation table for this Michelin tire is... For example... If the front GAWR is 7500 lbs (a guess) and we consult the Michelin Engineers Load inflation table (above) for the given single tire we see that the equivalent inflation for the new front tires would be 80 psi. And if the rear GAWR is 14500 lbs (a guess) and we consult the Michelin Engineers Load inflation table (above) for the given dual tire we see that the equivalent inflation for the new rear tires would be 90 psi. These inflation pressures would be sufficient to carrying the maximum rated load of the axle with these new tires, assuming the loads across the axle are evenly distributed. Since you did not provide the given GAWR from the Federal certification label inside the motor home, the front and rear GAWR above are just guesses to provide an example to see how to determine what the manufacturer probably did to provide inflation recommendations and what you could do for the new tires. It would be very good to get your loaded Motor home weighed by wheel position to see if there are any side to side differences and to more accurately determine actual loaded inflation. Sometimes there are differences side to side and sometimes it is easy to overload axles. The manufacturer assumes that you will not overload the axle and that the weight on the axle is evenly distributed. Unfortunately often these two conditions do not prove to be true once the vehicle is loaded with our stuff. RVs regularly have significant side to side weight differences because of the nature of an RV being a living space. And RV owners often do not understand the need to be aware of weight so they load them up to the point that they may exceed the various vehicle safety ratings.
  15. TreyandSusan

    Trojan T-105 vs T-105 Plus

    I'm with Linda. We purchased Trojan T-125. We got a really good deal at a local golf cart company for the T-125 same cost as we could get anywhere else for the T-105. They purchased the batteries on pallets and got a great price break. The T-125 just upped the amp-hours/capacity a little. Also, we did purchase the Pro-Fill Battery Watering System and it is wonderful. Makes easy work of keeping the batteries filled. I think the plus version had fill tubes that were a little narrow for the pro-fill valves. It's been a two years since we made the purchase but when we did we called the flow-rite company to make sure we got the correct match (battery (plus/non-plus) and pro-fill watering system) We also got the EAPT (3) posts because we already had connectors and wiring for those posts from our previous battery bank. If the watering system is purchased the system does not come with a hand pump fill tube so that has to be purchased in addition to the valves. We chose the pro-fill over the hydro-link for cost and for future universal use on other batteries if needed. We are very happy with our choice and it works great.