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50 amp extension cords vs romex


GlennWest

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  • GlennWest changed the title to 50 amp extension cords vs romex

I think you meant to say ROMEX and It's likely over 7 bucks a foot .

That's way over 200 bucks for 30 feet , without any ends applied .

Amazon has a Camco 30 foot 50 amp complete extension cord for about 130 bucks . 

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Extension-PowerGrip-Convenient-Carrying/dp/B0024ECIP0

 

Anyway , I carry a 65 foot 50 amp extension . I've used it more than enough to make it worthwhile . ;)

 

Goes around , comes around .

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Oh sorry i wasn't plain. I want to use it for wiring not extension cord. Just finding it cheaper than romex. But I am finding better prices by the rolls. 

Edited by GlennWest

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Glenn, there is no way I would tell you to do that.  However,  I have been known to do that.  Romex is often used in RV's but it is a solid wire that can not withstand flexing and is not really best suited for RV's.  The extension cords are usually stranded and more flexible. Probably better suited for RV's but not necessarily designed for that.

Randy

2001 Volvo VNL 42 Cummins ISX Autoshift

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4 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Oh sorry i wasn't plain. I want to use it for wiring not extension cord. Just finding it cheaper than romex. But I am finding better prices by the rolls. 

I see . From a previous thread , you want to relocate your electric service connect point ? 

I used a UF type wire/cable when I rewired the power to the front section of our Monaco . That was about 11 years ago and there's never been any sign of malfunction . ;)

Goes around , comes around .

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35 minutes ago, Randyretired said:

Glenn, there is no way I would tell you to do that.  However,  I have been known to do that.  Romex is often used in RV's but it is a solid wire that can not withstand flexing and is not really best suited for RV's.  The extension cords are usually stranded and more flexible. Probably better suited for RV's but not necessarily designed for that.

#6 Romex is stranded wire not solid, strands are bigger than in Romex but it's still stranded and it's what is used on almost all RVs from the rec to the panel.

Denny & Jami SKP#90175
Most Timing with Mac our Scottie, RIP Jasper our Westie
2013 F350 SC DRW 6.2 V8 4.30 Gears
2003 HH Premier 35FKTG Home Base Nebraska

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14 minutes ago, Pat & Pete said:

I see . From a previous thread , you want to relocate your electric service connect point ? 

I used a UF type wire/cable when I rewired the power to the front section of our Monaco . That was about 11 years ago and there's never been any sign of malfunction . ;)

Uf might easier to get in between some of the places we have to in rvs. It's flat

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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If you use it, I suggest that you solder the ends where it connects into solid wire for an inch or so. That will prevent the strands from separating as they are tightened by screw connections. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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2 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

If you use it, I suggest that you solder the ends where it connects into solid wire for an inch or so. That will prevent the strands from separating as they are tightened by screw connections. 

Ferrules also work for that.  Good suggestion Kirk.

Randy

2001 Volvo VNL 42 Cummins ISX Autoshift

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Glenn, sorry I'm late I've been on the road much of the day. As always you raise good questions and remember I'm long retired from power distribution plus things have changed, but FWIW here are my suggestions:

NOTE Im talking about additions and alterations below NOT whats already there

1) For RV use I would NOT advise using solid conductor wiring (regardless of insulation/ jacketing) due to all the shake rattle n roll and vibration. Stranded is much more flexible with greater vibration resistance. SURE solid will still "work" its just that I prefer more flexible and more vibration tolerant stranded wire in RV's.  DO AS YOU PLEASE ITS YOUR RV YOUR MONEY..even if sold wire works.

2) If you insist on using sold core wiring I would make all splices inside grounded metallic junction boxes ESPECIALLY if you splice (I prefer solder plus compression or possibly WAGO if available for your wire size) solid to stranded wire. I do not like using wire nuts when splicing stranded to sold wire which is why I suggest solder plus mechanical or consider WAGO connectors PROVIDED suitable and approved for the wire you are using !

3) If you insist on using sold core wire I would use/install a vibration loop prior to entry into any appliance or junction box.  Splices in junction boxes (I prefer metal and grounded) need to be in readily accessible locations NOT hidden away !!!!!!!!!

 As you can tell by now in all the shock n vibration encountered in an RV I just prefer more flexible stranded wiring (even if sold can work). Marine grade wiring is another option yet may be more expensive.

 When you consider all the expense you already have and how RV's are constructed, I would not go cheap when it comes to a bit more wiring and even if sold works consider more flexible wiring methods YOUR MONEY YOUR CHOICE

Best wishes Glenn take cadre be safe

John T  Live from Davis Bayou in Ocean Springs MS

Edited by oldjohnt
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Going under belly would be impractical on mine. Straight down from my breaker box is reachable from my storage compartment. Can run wire overhead of storage right to inverters. Same where I plan to relocate receptacle for utility connection 

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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I don't know if anyone has really looked but the 120 volt wiring in a RV is solid 12-2 or 14-2 solid Romex and it's been that way for years.

Denny

Denny & Jami SKP#90175
Most Timing with Mac our Scottie, RIP Jasper our Westie
2013 F350 SC DRW 6.2 V8 4.30 Gears
2003 HH Premier 35FKTG Home Base Nebraska

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I use Soow cable for all my 6 awg runs of 120/240 volt when I do my installations.  It is very flexible and has a very durable sheathing in case anything has to run outside a compartment or enclosed area.

2000 Kenworth T2000 w/ Cummins N14 and autoshift
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12 hours ago, D&J said:

I don't know if anyone has really looked but the 120 volt wiring in a RV is solid 12-2 or 14-2 solid Romex and it's been that way for years.

Denny

X2  EXACTLY I can testify that's indeed true in my 50 years of RV ownership !!! For additions or mods like Glenn is considering I like the superior flexibility and vibration tolerance afforded by stranded conductors.

Nice chatting with you, best wishes Denny

John T 

6 hours ago, Chad Heiser said:

I use Soow cable for all my 6 awg runs of 120/240 volt when I do my installations.  It is very flexible and has a very durable sheathing in case anything has to run outside a compartment or enclosed area.

DITTO XT  I specified and our shop kept hundreds of foot spools of SOOW cord in stock which my electricians loved using.

6 AWG - Multi-Conductor - 600V - Stranded Conductor - SOOW - Portable Cord | ShowMeCables.com

As always nice sparky chatting with you  Chad

CAUTION AND DISCLAIMER   I'm rusty on the latest codes, do NOT know and am NOT saying when and where SOOW Cord is approved by the NEC for use in an RV. If not I advise NOT to use it even if I or anyone has... 

John T  Live from Davis Bayou Camp in Ocean Springs MS

Edited by oldjohnt
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5 hours ago, Kirk W said:

It might be overkill, but I would still solder them. 

The ferrule prevents it from flaring out. I crimp it also. Don't see any need in harding wires from soldering.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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