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City water intake


Scott W

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#1, It is not unusual for the molded brass-plated hose end to get dented/bent from dropping on a hard surface, inspect the hose end for such. That is a good reason to buy water hose with  cast-brass or SST ends.

#2, replace the hose washer in the inlet, they are very cheap to buy.

#3, sometimes I don't have the grip of years ago, and I must use pliers to tighten the connection (goes back to worn or hardened sealing washer)

#4, I've been known to cross-thread a hose connection, which basically ruins a molded hose end.

 

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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I've equipped all of my hoses and accessories with good quality solid brass quick disconnects that are much easier for my arthritic hands to operate than threaded connectors. For city water connections in parks, my first connection at the spigot is a pressure regulator with a large plastic grip that's easy to thread on and tighten. Everything after that uses the brass QD's.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGFV92D/

Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system

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I've used half a dozen different style and brands quick disconnects.  Over time the only ones that haven't failed me is a cam-lock style.  I've been using these for 2 years now with good results.  https://green-leaf.us/garden-hose-camlocks/

Alie & Jim + 8 paws

2017 DRV Memphis 

BART- 1998 Volvo 610

Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins

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If none of Ray's suggestions solve the problem, examine it closely to see where it is leaking as the fitting can occasionally leak where the female connection turns on the connection. They are not difficult to replace and are readily available from Amazon or most any RV supply store. 

IMAG3281-1024x579.jpg

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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1 hour ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

I've used half a dozen different style and brands quick disconnects.  Over time the only ones that haven't failed me is a cam-lock style.  I've been using these for 2 years now with good results.  https://green-leaf.us/garden-hose-camlocks/

I have some of the brass QD's I linked to that have been in service for almost 5 years. The only failure I've had in that time was one O-ring that needed replacing. A pack of 5 was about a dollar at an Ace hardware store. I think the worst kind are the plastic or aluminum ones that use a special hose washer for the seal. Even a little bit of corrosion or dirt on them and they leak.

Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system

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I have often had to somehow support the hose in such a way that the weight of it with water does not cause just enough of center strain to cause the joint to leak.  In some rare cases I have used a double washer or a different type of washer. Not discounting Dutch's recommendation but in my case I had trouble with the quick connect type and went back to standard type connectors for me. I like the idea of the quick disconnects.  Sometimes your situation may vary a little. I have used and am currently using one of the Y type connectors with the ball valve shut off backwards so I have a water connect on that side of the trailer when I need one without disconnecting the fresh water to the trailer.

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1 hour ago, bigjim said:

I have often had to somehow support the hose in such a way that the weight of it with water does not cause just enough of center strain to cause the joint to leak.

That's why I bought a short length of hose from the RV water filter store. I used it to connect my first filter casing to the faucet so that the casing stood on the ground thus relieving any down-pull at the faucet.

Linda

Blog: http://sandcastle.sandsys.org/

Former Rigs: Liesure Travel van, Winnebago View 24H, Winnebago Journey 34Y, Sportsmobile Sprinter conversion van

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10 hours ago, bigjim said:

I have often had to somehow support the hose in such a way that the weight of it with water does not cause just enough of center strain to cause the joint to leak. 

For that reason I always use an elbow fitting to connect to the RV fitting. 

001745_1.jpg?sw=1350&sh=1000&sm=fit

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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To reduce strain and potential leaks on those straight out the side horizontal city water inlets, I attach one of those small 6  inch flexible strain relief sections with a 90 degree turn down and good quality brass connectors. That really helps and prevents leaks. I've had a few of those leak (NOT at the hose connection) but just inside the RV where the water line attaches and of course check valves that go bad.

 

 John T 

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