Looking at local truck

[Nwcid]

I know I have a couple of similar threads floating around but I have more specific questions at this time.

Right now I am pulling a 17k, 38' toy hauler.  I would like to be able to add a deck to load my UTV crossways like a smart car.  I am looking to get the better fuel mileage vs more power as any HDT will be better than my 1 ton.  In the future I will be looking at a larger 45' trailer. 

 

I found this truck locally and I hope to go look at it next week.  

It looks like it is fairly high geared so should this get reasonable milage?  

For this model and year are there specific problems I need to be on the look out for?  

I know a DOT inspection is not a full mechanical inspection, but would the information from that inspection be worth the fee?

 

2014 VOLVO VNL 630 Conventional, 418,264 Miles, Volvo D13 Engine, 450 H.P., Engine Brake, Volvo I-Shift AT2612D Transmission, 40,000 Lb. Rear Ends, 2.47 Ratio, Air Ride Suspension, Extended Frame, Hydraulic Power Steering, Air Conditioned, Dual Aluminum Fuel Tanks, Single Chrome Stack, Exterior Visor, Side Fairings, Cab Extenders, Quarter Fenders, AM/FM Radio, Compact Disc Player, Tilt And Telescoping Steering Wheel, Cruise Control, Power Windows, Auxiliary Power Unit, Air Slide 5th, 265 Inch Wheel Base, 22.5 Low Profile Tires, Aluminum Disc Wheels. APU system ComfortPro.

[HERO Maker]

Forget the DOT inspection.  You don't ever need that.  Put the funds toward a real inspection company that you can probably find in the resource guide, or I'm sure one of the guys will chime in with a name or two.  Get the records on the truck from the seller/volvo.  The money you invest in a mechanical inspection will tell you what you need to know in order to move forward, slash the price, or to run.

[HERO Maker]

Look here

[Nwcid]

13 minutes ago, HERO Maker said:

Forget the DOT inspection.  You don't ever need that.  Put the funds toward a real inspection company that you can probably find in the resource guide, or I'm sure one of the guys will chime in with a name or two.  Get the records on the truck from the seller/volvo.  The money you invest in a mechanical inspection will tell you what you need to know in order to move forward, slash the price, or to run.

The seller says he bought it from a company that closed down and has no records, probably a red flag.  

I looked at the link you sent and they do no do my area.  I will look for a local mobile inspector.  What is a rough price range I should expect to pay for this service?

I am a little concerned as it seems to be about 20% cheaper then comparable trucks that I see online.  

[rickeieio]

Red flag indeed.  Not saying to walk, but tread lightly.

Axle ratio is one consideration, as is tranny ratio and tire size.  It might be geared such that you get best efficiency in a lower gear.  And mileage isn't everything.  Comfort and safety trump that.  This ain't a cheap game.  Big trailers with poor aerodynamics pull hard.  Having the trailer set back from the cab to enable hauling another item only makes it worse.  We get 7.2 mpg, averaged over 10 years and 50k miles.  But, when we arrive we unload the smart and the motorcycles which get better "smiles per gallon."

[Nwcid]

23 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Red flag indeed.  Not saying to walk, but tread lightly.

Axle ratio is one consideration, as is tranny ratio and tire size.  It might be geared such that you get best efficiency in a lower gear.  And mileage isn't everything.  Comfort and safety trump that.  This ain't a cheap game.  Big trailers with poor aerodynamics pull hard.  Having the trailer set back from the cab to enable hauling another item only makes it worse.  We get 7.2 mpg, averaged over 10 years and 50k miles.  But, when we arrive we unload the smart and the motorcycles which get better "smiles per gallon."

I know I am never getting amazing milage, if I could get 10 it would be great.  Fully loaded I am getting 8.6 with my 1 ton.  

I know there are a ton of other advantages which is why I am looking into HDT.  My 1 ton with 65k is on it's 3rd set of tires, needs front brakes again, and the times I do need to make full days towing it is very tiring.

 

 

[DesertMiner]

Is the 265 wheel base ok for your needs?

[Nwcid]

4 minutes ago, DesertMiner said:

Is the 265 wheel base ok for your needs?

I did ask about that in another post.  I know that is a little longer (about 3'), then most, but I think that will be ok.  It should still turn at least as good as my dually and I have a little more room on the truck for other items.  

Right away I would like to add additional fresh and waste tanks.  At some point I would likely mount a 10k or 12.5k generator right behind the cab. 

Are there other things I need to consider?

 

Edited November 18, 2020 by Nwcid

[Darryl&Rita]

That rear gear indicates a direct drive trans, no OD. Not really an issue, just 2 different schools of thought on fuel efficiency with direct drive vs. OD. Rest assured that truck was spec'd to haul heavier loads than you'll pull. The D13 has been a good engine from the get go, both for mileage, and lifespan. The APU is either a bonus, or a negative, depending on how you view it. Not a hugely popular brand, parts and service may be hard to get. APU's are typically louder than an inverter generator, or a Class A motorhome generator. They typically provide heat and AC to the truck cab, vs. a seperately mounted gen.

The rest of the ad is mostly fluff. Hydraulic power steering? Must have been paid by the word.

[Nwcid]

15 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

That rear gear indicates a direct drive trans, no OD. Not really an issue, just 2 different schools of thought on fuel efficiency with direct drive vs. OD. Rest assured that truck was spec'd to haul heavier loads than you'll pull. The D13 has been a good engine from the get go, both for mileage, and lifespan. The APU is either a bonus, or a negative, depending on how you view it. Not a hugely popular brand, parts and service may be hard to get. APU's are typically louder than an inverter generator, or a Class A motorhome generator. They typically provide heat and AC to the truck cab, vs. a seperately mounted gen.

The rest of the ad is mostly fluff. Hydraulic power steering? Must have been paid by the word.

From what I have read it seems like a good combo. 

I am either or on the APU for now.  If it functions, I think it will be handy to have, but I do not think I would add one.

Yes, the ad is a lot of fluff, probably cut and paste from somewhere else.  

I am just trying to get as much info as possible before I go look. 

[Deezl Smoke]

At 265" with a set back axle, you need to take it for a drive before you go much further. If this is your first HDT or experience in semi trucks, that length will have you calling tow trucks on a regular basis.

[rickeieio]

Ask the seller for a picture of the door sticker.  I wouldn't be surprised if the 265" is overall axle/axle.  If you go look at the truck, take a tape measure.  Salesmen often are clueless.......

[HERO Maker]

18 hours ago, Nwcid said:

 

I looked at the link you sent and they do no do my area.  I will look for a local mobile inspector.  What is a rough price range I should expect to pay for this service?

If you haven't been scared off yet, then contact the companies.  They have contract inspectors all over.

[HERO Maker]

Can you post a picture of the truck?

 

[Nwcid]

This is a private seller, not a salesman.  The truck is "local" but still about 2hr away from me.  

I will ask for a door sticker pic when I contact him about a time to actually go see it.  Probably a week or two.  I will be bringing a tape for sure. 

I will contact that inspection company, they did not list WA as one of their states though. 

 

It won't let me add the pic.  Here is the ad, https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1253446241675425

 

 

Edited November 19, 2020 by Nwcid

[trimster]

Inspection...absolutely.  we paid $250 for a really good inspection on a truck we ended up not getting. Truck was stellar...Covid shutdown airline flights. We had to pass.

Wheelbase is measured center of front wheel hub to the midway point between the rear axles. Our Volvo is 210". 

We added 25" to the frame for the hitch. Total length is now 29'.

To get the truck on the road/registered in Utah, costs a bit over $5k. $2700 was the frame extension and hitch install.

There were some issues like front brakes were toast. Miss-matched steer tire ratings. DEF sensors were bad and Volvo had to run a forced regen. I replaced the sensors which saved $800+. 

I bought from a dealer so I had them do stuff as part of the sale. Oil change, pull the commercial hitch (leaving the hitch rails to mount the bed), air filter. I had to pay Volvo to pull the computer error codes ($120). This is a must-do.

I was able to find the last owner and he gave me tons of history. That owner, gave the dealer all the service records and the dealer threw them away. 

There's more expenses,  and I can give you those if you like.

In the end... we're really enjoying the truck. We've has 1 ton, MDT. Mucho better with HDT.