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Comfort Control thermostat question


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As you know I doing away with my Dometic unit. Will my thermostat still work for furance when I remove it. It has a box with it that controls the previous 2 different ac units.  Mine is the older tall one, not the long newer one.  The newer ac was used and older one together, so a box to make this work was installed. 

Edited by GlennWest

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56 minutes ago, Sehc said:

My suburban thermostat is just a on off switch (thermal spring) to the furnace.

That is all that is needed for the furnace but you will need to route a two conductorlead from the furnace to the location of the new(replacement) thermostat. There are 2 blue wires in the furnace that should connect to the thermostat and when calling for heat they are shorted together. At present that lead is run to the air conditioner. Probably be easiest to run a new one. Telephone type wire is ample for this purpose.

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Thanks. Got to looking and the thermostate wire is in a crawl space and I have  access too. Be easy to do. Glad someting is. 

Edited by GlennWest

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42 minutes ago, GlennWest said:

Shouldn't any 2 wire thermostat work? See some mechanical and digital ones at Lowe's. 

Make sure it is a 12 volt thermostat, since many are 24 volt.

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Travels through much of 2013 - http://www.sacnoth.com - Bill, Diane and Evita (the cat)
 

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15 minutes ago, Bill Joyce said:

Make sure it is a 12 volt thermostat, since many are 24 volt.

Or powered by it's own on-board batteries. Opens up the field a lot.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

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2 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Shouldn't any 2 wire thermostat work? See some mechanical and digital ones at Lowe's. 

Yes they should. If you just use one of the simplest thermostats it won't be voltage sensitive as they are just a bimetalic spring that expands or contracts to open or close a set of contacts to connect the two blue wires from your Suburban furnace. You can get one made for Suburban from Amazon for $14.

81839PqA9KL._AC_UL320_.jpg

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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Problem with the Suburban Stat is the dead band between the starting of the furnace and the shutoff.  We had over a 4 degree swing and it was just uncomfortable.  I replaced it with a battery operated stat from Home Depot and that cured the wide temp swings.

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23 hours ago, GlennWest said:

All the 24 v units i have read reports on said they work on 12v also. Work as low as 8 volts.

The problem with 24 volt thermostats is twofold. The 24 volt system is AC, while the RV is DC. The other problem is most RV systems don't have a ground reference wire at the thermostat location. The 2  wires are only a switched pair.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

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On 7/5/2019 at 10:11 AM, Bill Joyce said:

https://www.rvweb.net/best-rv-thermostats-reviewed/ might help.  The good information is at the bottom.

only problem most all mentioned there is same as mine. Works off the ac control box up top. 

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If it can be powered by batteries, shouldn't it work. Looking at this one.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GGPMO2/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Edited by GlennWest

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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18 minutes ago, Carlos said:

Nearly all RV systems are microvolt, not 12/24v, and cannot power a thermostat.  This is what I put in our TT and love it.  Super easy to install, works great, and no wild temp swings any more.

 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ALEBZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Sorry, Charlie. The flame sense circuit is micro to millivolt, but the control side is 12 volt. 

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

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2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


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I could use a line voltage thermostat, if I chose to. When you refer to a millivolt thermostat, you're referring to a system that uses a thermopile for electricity, and uses no outside electric source. No modern RV furnace runs like that. 

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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Just now, GlennWest said:

But if it runs on batteries it should work.

That's the important point, regardless of semantics.  The thermostat needs to run on batteries of its own, and provide a simple contact closure.  The one I linked to meets both of those.  Household thermostats MIGHT be able to run on batteries, and they provide a pair of closure terminals for "on" as well as several other connections.  They will work if the person installing it knows which terminals to use for that.  The Hunter 42999 only provides two terminals so you can't go wrong.

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  • 2 months later...

update, installed a Honeywell #RTH111. Called Honeywell support and asked which terminals supplied a simple on and off. He stated R and W.. Verified this with my ohmeter. Continuity when temp set above room temp. Off when set at room temp. Bingo. Hooked it up and furance don't come on. No real worry now since it is 90+ outside. Now, last winter I had to clean out orfice. A piece of rust was in it. This may have happened again. 

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On 7/4/2019 at 12:53 PM, Kirk W said:

Yes they should. If you just use one of the simplest thermostats it won't be voltage sensitive as they are just a bimetalic spring that expands or contracts to open or close a set of contacts to connect the two blue wires from your Suburban furnace. You can get one made for Suburban from Amazon for $14.

81839PqA9KL._AC_UL320_.jpg

That's what I bought and used when my 'stat for the Fantastic Fan quit working.

 

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