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Coolant Lines


rickeieio

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Back in February, we sprang a leak in a coolant line.  It was a steel tube going from the motor to the tranny (ISX/Eaton auto shift).  We by passed it and came home.  Cool weather so the tranny was fine.

After we got home, I went to my friendly dealer and asked them to get me all the coolant lines, both steel and hose.  Golly, there's a lot of lines.  And they ain't cheap.  Some are in tight places too. A few require a second person to help feed in the hose. 

I'm cheating and running silicone hose in place of some of the steel, which makes for some creative routing to avoid hot spots.  All told, this is about a $1200 project, not counting labor and a new batch of anti-freeze.

So, if your truck came from the rust belt, check those lines and avoid sitting along the road with a puddle under your ride.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Steiger tractors with Eaton Fuller transmissions’z have a no trans oil pressure warning buzzer and lamp. Sounds off every time you open the clutch and stop the trans main shaft to select a gear. 

End of Fuller trans trivia...

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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You can likely count on your thumbs those here who even know what a Steiger is........  I think I have a picture of an early one.  Yep, found it.

J308Kpdl.jpg

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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It's not just the transmission cooler lines that rust out.  On a Volvo with a Volvo engine (maybe Cummins too?) Under the hood and next to the right front tire, there are steel heater lines that run along the passenger side frame rail. Transmission type makes no difference.  Due to their position, they collect road salt and grit.  It doesn't take long for these lines to start leaking.  Volvo folks might want to keep an eye on these lines too.

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Randy, Nancy and Oscar

"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired!

 

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3 hours ago, rickeieio said:

You can likely count on your thumbs those here who even know what a Steiger is........  I think I have a picture of an early one.  Yep, found it.

J308Kpdl.jpg

nbiGnvdl.jpg

He’s a Tiger

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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 A person may want to install shutoff vales to the sleeper area. 

 

 Just in case the rear heat exchanger decides to leak at an inconvient time. Now I did that years ago.

 

 Now I have forgot to test the operation of these valves lately. So this reminds me to test them today.

 

 Safe Travels,.   Vern

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Rocky, until Vern gets back on-line to comment........

AC and Heater are separate systems.  Can't put shut-off valves on AC lines.  Right at the firewall on the passenger side the heater lines sort of "T" off and a pair run down under the cab to the rear heating radiator.  Like Vern noted on his rig, my rear heater core developed a small leak.  I put regular ball valves from Lowe's in the lines and cut off the rear heater thinking I would get a new radiator later.  Well, that was 9 years ago and I still don't have a new rear heater.  I have not needed it even in some of our coldest weather.  Of course, I have a 670.  Anyone with a 780 size sleeper may need the rear heater.  I have also put 12-volt electric solenoid valves in the lines to the front heater.  This resulted in a vast improvement in my air conditioning.  Rubber A/C air door seals had begun to rot and leak and hot air from the front heater core was crossing over into cold A/C air.  Solenoids were easier than tearing apart the dash and replacing seals - also more effective.  I can now cut hot coolant flow on or off at will with an inside switch for the heater and when off - the A/C air will frost your nose!

Considering the age and mileage on most of our trucks any and all exposed steel lines need frequent inspection.  I have replaced all of my exposed steel lines under the truck with 1/2" solder-joint copper that I have made up.  Never a problem with putting silicone lines on the copper tube.  I just push a little further onto the new 1/2" copper pipe and use two gear clamps rather than one.

 

300.JPG.c2a50e50210ede7534c4c440c7f9aa80.JPG

Randy, Nancy and Oscar

"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired!

 

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  We I did test my valves, and they still function properly.

 

 But I did notice my heater pipes to the rear are starting to need looked at. They were replaced before I bought the truck in 07. Now we normally do not travel in wet conditions so they have lasted longer than the original. But I will take a better look later today when I have time.

 

 Randy covered the idea on the valves. AC lines need to be left alone. 

 

  It is a good thing to really look things over occasionally. I might just save a extra ride to the shop.

 

  Safe Travels,.  Vern

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6 hours ago, RandyA said:

Rocky, until Vern gets back on-line to comment........

AC and Heater are separate systems.  Can't put shut-off valves on AC lines.  Right at the firewall on the passenger side the heater lines sort of "T" off and a pair run down under the cab to the rear heating radiator.  Like Vern noted on his rig, my rear heater core developed a small leak.  I put regular ball valves from Lowe's in the lines and cut off the rear heater thinking I would get a new radiator later.  Well, that was 9 years ago and I still don't have a new rear heater.  I have not needed it even in some of our coldest weather.  Of course, I have a 670.  Anyone with a 780 size sleeper may need the rear heater.  I have also put 12-volt electric solenoid valves in the lines to the front heater.  This resulted in a vast improvement in my air conditioning.  Rubber A/C air door seals had begun to rot and leak and hot air from the front heater core was crossing over into cold A/C air.  Solenoids were easier than tearing apart the dash and replacing seals - also more effective.  I can now cut hot coolant flow on or off at will with an inside switch for the heater and when off - the A/C air will frost your nose!

Considering the age and mileage on most of our trucks any and all exposed steel lines need frequent inspection.  I have replaced all of my exposed steel lines under the truck with 1/2" solder-joint copper that I have made up.  Never a problem with putting silicone lines on the copper tube.  I just push a little further onto the new 1/2" copper pipe and use two gear clamps rather than one.

 

Yes, I already have the valves to shut off the water.  My steel line to the rear was bypassed before I purchased the truck.  I've been thinking about installing the valves to shut the water off to the rear, but have never used the rear heat!  But I do like the idea of shutting of the water to the front.  Could always use colder non/mixed air.  Too late for me to put any valves on the a/c to rear (although you can't).  Replaced line to the rear last year at Hutch, and then just replaced the rear system last month along with a warranty repair on the infamous exchange valve up front!  At least I have a warranty for another year on all that stuff again!

Rocky & Sheri Rhoades
'01 Volvo 770
2016 DRV Mobile Suites, Houston
HERO Makers Ministry

 

30495168531_143d8fb8d6_m.jpg

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3 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

They had a whole line of cat named tractors. We had a Panther at one point, big Caterpillar engine.

There is a Bearcat here at summer camp that is in semi retirement - seeds a few acres in the spring. There is a lack of junky plastic on those machines. I think the hood might be 1/4” 🙃

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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