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2000 Volvo part no longer available


Wrknrvr

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 Well now I have been slowly working on my air leak in our VNL.  It has been a little frustrating up to now. Ok I finally got the treadle valve off the truck as it is the problem valve.

 I did get a kit to rebuild the valve a year ago just in case. So with valve in hand the adapter for a VNL has three bolts holding it to the valve.

one of them came out . Two are stuck.

 

  I call Bendix cooperate for a part number and availability.     Ooooops.   Not available. Call class8trucks .     No no no.   Not any anywhere that can be detected.

 

 So now to get the old parts separated.

 

 The treadle valve is readily available ,   What is not available is the adapter to mount the valve on a VNL Volvo.  Will search the net, but if yours is really stuck, drastic measures to separate .

 

 Will post as to what happens,.     Vern

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It happens. Sometimes you have to be resouceful. I look after a mid 90's Volvo. The cab height control was leaking. Call the Volvo dealer, old style valve no longer available, new retrofit kit $200 and some dollars. Found enough of a part number on the old one to shop online. Identical valve, New Flyer bus application, $35. I just had to swap the control arm, one nut holds it on.

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Any time you find bolts like that. Rely on Kroil penetrating oil. Around $25,00 for a med size can. But works wonders on stuck bolts. 18 year old Manifold bolts on a 4x4 pickup. Everyone came out like a year old truck. But soaked them three times in a week. 

Also if you need that part. Let me know buddy of mine may have one. They own a few hundred trucks. In a big truck junk yard. 

 

 


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9 hours ago, VegasFlyer said:

Kroil should be renamed Fairy Magic Spray.

The stuff is so good that it will probably cure zombies....

It's even good on Cheerios.:P

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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A little automatic trans fluid mixed with a little diesel fuel, 50/50, works nearly as well. Even so, I'll drive a ridiculous distance to get the real deal. Kroil rules!!!!

 

Paul & Paula + Daisy the amazing wiggle worm dog...

2001 Volvo 770 Autoshift, Singled, w/ Aluminum Bed - Toy Draggin

2013 395AMP XLR Thunderbolt Toy Hauler

2013 Smart Passion

2012 CanAm Spyder RT

2013 Harley Davidson Street Glide

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 This really needs a photo, I cannot post pictures on this site.

 

 So let me say I have taken a lot of stuff apart with good and bad success. I have had a rebuild kit with me for about a year and finally said it was time to fix the problem. So as I had viewed the repair video that was posted in the other subject on valves and had taken time to test the system as that video was describing and finally decided to remove the valve.

 So one of the first things I started to do was to soak all the threaded connections I could see. Two of the bolts on top of the adapter have treads exposed at the end and as they pass through the adapter. The head of the bolts are not exposed until you take the assembly off the floor board. So the threads that are exposed were soaked for atleast 3 days.

 So once the assembly was of the vehicle I noticed the head of two bolts had aluminum oxidation around the heads. Try to pick out the oxidation, little success at that so make a hole saw tool to drill over the heads. Do not go to deep as it will ruin the adapter. Apply some mild acid to remove the oxidation.

 

 During this time I called about the valve at class8trucks. Only the valve is what the part number shows. Call Bendix Corportate for what is going on. Yes they provided a special adapter for that valve to fit Volvos application.

 That part number is no longer available form Bendix. Nor can class8 trucks find one either

 Finally have the assembly in a vice. Socket head bolt takes 1/4" Allen wrench. So install a driver backwards in drill driver, with a 12" adjustable wrench on the shaft and the hammering drill driver. Two bolts will not budge in either direction. 

 Finally strip the socket out out of both bolts.

 

 Get a dremel tool out and cut both bolts off at there mid way point. 

 

 

 

 Ok now I have the adapter off the valve. With another HDTr helping I drive one of the bolt heads out with a punch. Yes it was just smudge tight. Today I will get the other bolt head out. Beer sounded better at 4 pm the more ???????? 

 The part of the bolt in the valve had to have a small pipe wrench to remove it.

 

 

 If this was done at a Vovlo shop it may be a problem .     To say it mildly???????

 

 So heads up on this subject,.    Vern

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Vern,

I have two words for you,  "heat gun".  Warm the aluminum piece until it's just uncomfortable to hold, no more.  It should expand the piece enough to relax it's grip on the bolts.

Good luck going back together.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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 I did try that at last and no success.

 

 The bolt heads were extremely tight. I mean extremely tight. And that is just the heads as the other end is cut off.

 I am not cheap when money needs spent, but with no part available I was sorta in a bind.

 And not in a mood to go to Pheonix to a junkyard.

 

 Just a warning for others that it could be a problem.    Vern

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13 minutes ago, Pete Kildow said:

I did find one thing it does not work on. But then again that bolt had been rusted shut for over 40 years.. HAHA

I bought a tractor that had sat in a farmers field for nearly 30 years, rusted up solid like the TinMan.  They had parked it because the starter went out.

I attacked it one evening after work with nearly a gallon of Kroil and the next day got nearly everything freed up , without any tools.  The axle spindles were very stubborn, though with a little heat differential to pull the Kroil in, we got them freed up as well.

We made a lot of money on that deal.

John

Southern Nevada

2008 Volvo 780, D13, I-Shift

2017 Keystone Fuzion 420 Toyhauler 

2017 Can-Am Maverick X3-RS

 

ALAKAZARCACODEFLGAHIIDILINIAKSKYLAMAMNMS
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16 minutes ago, VegasFlyer said:

I bought a tractor that had sat in a farmers field for nearly 30 years, rusted up solid like the TinMan.  They had parked it because the starter went out.

I attacked it one evening after work with nearly a gallon of Kroil and the next day got nearly everything freed up , without any tools.  The axle spindles were very stubborn, though with a little heat differential to pull the Kroil in, we got them freed up as well.

We made a lot of money on that deal.

The bolt I was talking about. Was almost rusted into by Fertilizer. Like you Kroil has worked wonders. Step Son got me a can from GE years ago.  That was the best Christmas Gift he could have gotten me. Found out later it cost him $39.00 but man it was a big can.

 

 


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 Just to finish this subject the valve is rebuilt, installed and works as designed with no air leaks.

 For a few thoughts on rebuilding a treadle valve. I did have a rebuild kit for a year just in case it was really needed. If you have done it before you know what I mean.

  First the thing is to be in a rested and in a good state of mind. Take pictures as I did not. Ifinally found a good description on putting it back together. Take your time as I took extra stuff apart that was not nessisary. That made it more confusing. I finally figured out two small assembly's where in the kit and just replace the those as a unit. With those assembly's a part there were to many parts in front of me.

 I was really tired when I took the valve aprart. Not a good thing to do.

 

 While I had the valve out I replaced the O'rings in the push connect fittings also. Trimmed the airlines back just enough so the new O'rings did not sit where the O'rings were on the line.The air now seems to build air faster now.

 

 Safe travels,.   Vern

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